The American black elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) is native throughout much of North America. It is a member of the Adoxaceae family and is closely related to several other elderberry species with ranges that include North America, South America, Europe, and Asia. In the wild, elderberry prefers a sunny location with rich, moist soil. It will spread rapidly in ideal conditions, forming dense thickets along streamsides, wetland borders, and moist valleys.
In the home landscape, elderberry plants are best used as hedges, in naturalized areas, and for erosion control along wetland edges. Due to their vigorous growth and ability to develop numerous root suckers each year, these plants should be grown in a spacious naturalized area where they won’t interfere with any less aggressive garden plants in a more formal garden setting. Elderberry makes an excellent addition to a native plant garden, wildlife garden, or rain garden.
If you are ready to learn more about these fascinating plants, keep reading for more details on growing an elderberry shrub!
American elderberry is a widespread plant across North America, from Canada throughout the United States, and continuing into South America. In its natural habitat, it typically inhabits wetlands, wetland edges, moist forest edges, and moist meadows. While it may prefer moist soil conditions, it is adaptable and not limited to wet areas. It can also grow well in average soils with regular moisture and adequate sunlight.
Elderberry is a medium-sized deciduous shrub. It has large, pinnately compound leaves that are glossy and finely serrated around the edges. Large umbels of tiny white flowers bloom in spring and summer. The flowers are showy and fragrant and attract pollinators. Following the flowers, loose clusters of showy, dark, purplish-black berries ripen in late summer into fall, attracting many species of hungry wildlife.
There are a couple of cultivars and similar species, including the very similar-looking black elderberry (Sambucus nigra) native to Europe. Sambucus plants all look somewhat similar but have different places of origin, differences in size, and slightly varying flower and fruit coloration.
Humans have long used elderberry for a variety of purposes. Elderberry is sometimes used for culinary andmedicinal purposes. The berries are poisonous when raw but can be consumed after cooking and are often used in pies, jams, jellies, and preserves. Elderberry has been used to make wine, tea, and mulled drinks. Elderberry fruits can also be used to make dye for fabrics.
Elderberry plants can be propagated via seed, cuttings, and division. The easiest method is by division of suckers because these plants spread rapidly and create many opportunities for the division of suckers. However, cuttings from dormant hardwood or young new wood are often viable. Starting plants from seed is generally the least successful and most time-consuming method.
For a plant that produces abundant fruits and thus abundant seeds, one would think that elderberry should be easy to start from seed. However, encouraging elderberry seeds to germinate can be very difficult unless you provide ideal growing conditions.
Seeds will need to be properly stratified. You must cold-stratify your seeds by placing them in a damp growing medium in the refrigerator for at least 60-90 days. Do not place them in the freezer.
Alternatively, winter sowing techniques can provide the natural cold stratification they would receive in the wild. You may still experience very low germination rates even after proper stratification procedures.
Elderberry plants spread rapidly. Each root sucker is an opportunity for you to divide your plant, but you will have to separate the root sprout from the parent plant successfully.
Be prepared for some digging. Loosen the soil in a wide enough area to isolate, loosen, and remove a healthy-looking root sucker. You will need to cut the stem between the sucker and the parent plant. Be sure to leave the roots of your targeted sucker as intact as you can.
Then, immediately transplant the separated sucker into a new location or a fresh large pot of soil and water it well. These offshoots should produce additional root tissue and start growing faster than a cutting would.
Elderberry can be propagated from dormant hardwood cuttings from the prior year’s growth. Take cuttings before the early spring growth, ensuring you have 2-4 growth nodes along the stem’s length. These should be healthy cuttings, free from any damage. These cuttings can be rooted immediately but, if desired, can be stored under refrigeration for 4-6 weeks and will still take root. A rooting hormone can spur root development. Cuttings should be placed in sterile, premoistened soil, with the lowest growth node under the soil’s surface.
From softwood cuttings or hardwood cuttings that have produced new growth, you can still propagate new elderberry plants. However, for these younger or newly-sprouted stems, you’ll need to provide constant humidity around the younger tissue to ensure they stay alive to take root. Intermittent misting is recommended for these younger cuttings; otherwise, most methods remain the same as hardwood cuttings. Before planting, remove most of the leaves so the plants aren’t trying to sustain them, leaving only the two lowest leaves on each stem.
It will take several weeks before your plants start to develop new roots, and you will find that not every cutting you take will root successfully. Those that take root and start growing can be kept in pots until you can transplant them outside.
When you have an elderberry plant ready to transplant, the process is relatively easy. First, make sure you are transplanting your plant into a suitable site with ample space, bright sunlight, and moist soil.
The ideal time of year for transplanting elderberry is in the spring after the final risk of frost has subsided. This allows the plant’s roots to become established before hot weather. In warmer climates with little to no frost during the winter months, it’s also possible to transplant these in the fall.
Prepare a hole a bit larger than the root ball of the plant you have to transplant. Carefully transfer your plant out of its pot and into the hole. Then, refill the gaps around the plant with fresh soil and water it well. Keep your new plant well-watered for the first week or two to help it settle into its new home.
Transplanting an American elderberry shrub may seem daunting, but it’s actually a fairly straightforward process With some planning, care, and patience, you can move your elderberry bush to a new location in your landscape without much trouble In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through each step of transplanting elderberry, from choosing the right time of year all the way to aftercare. Follow along to learn the ins and outs of relocating your prized Sambucus canadensis with success.
Why Transplant an Elderberry Bush?
There are a few key reasons you may need or want to transplant an elderberry:
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To move it to a sunnier or more appropriate spot. Elderberries thrive best in full sun to partial shade. If your plant isn’t getting optimal light moving it can boost growth and fruit production.
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To make room for other landscape plants or hardscaping features. Sometimes an elderberry outgrows its space or needs to be relocated for design purposes.
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To propagate new elderberry plants. Transplanting is necessary when dividing an overgrown elderberry clump to generate new bushes.
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To improve growing conditions. Elderberries appreciate rich, moist soil. Transplanting gives you a chance to amend the soil with compost or other nutrients.
No matter the reason, follow these guidelines for transplating success.
When to Transplant Elderberry
Timing is critical when it comes to transplanting. Move the elderberry bush when it’s dormant to reduce transplant shock. The ideal time is early spring before growth resumes. Or, you can transplant in late fall after leaf drop. Avoid transplanting during the growing season when the plant is actively flowering or fruiting.
If you must transplant later in spring or summer, reduce stress by pruning the branches back by one-third to decrease water loss. Also be sure to keep the root ball very well-watered.
Preparing to Transplant
Advance preparation is key to minimize trauma to the plant during the move. Here are some tips:
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Water the plant deeply a few days before transplanting. This will hydrate the roots and make digging easier.
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Prune back branches by one-third to reduce transpiration.
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Prepare the new planting hole ahead of time. Dig it 2-3 times wider than the root ball.
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Loosen the ground around the elderberry with a shovel several days before digging. Be careful not to damage roots.
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Remove any flowers, berries, or immature wood to direct energy into root regrowth after transplanting.
Follow these steps and the elderberry will be primed and ready for its big move.
How to Dig Up an Elderberry Bush
When it’s go time, use these steps to carefully dig up and extract your elderberry:
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Water the plant thoroughly one day before digging.
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Using a sharp shovel, start making a circle around the drip line, about 1 foot out from the bush.
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Once you reach the root depth, begin widening the circle, working slowly underneath to free the root ball.
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Carefully extract the root ball and place it on a piece of burlap or tarp.
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Wrap the root ball with burlap and tie it closed for transport. Keep the root ball moist.
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Check for and prune back any damaged roots or branches.
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Immediately transplant into the prepared hole. Don’t leave it bare-rooted for long.
Having help makes removing a mature elderberry much easier. Use care not to damage the main stem and root structure.
Transplanting into the New Site
Once you’ve dug up the elderberry, promptly move it to its new home. Follow these tips:
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Orient it the same way it was growing previously, with the top facing up.
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Carefully place into the prepared planting hole. Partially backfill with original garden soil.
-Create a soil slurry by blending compost with water. Pour into hole and fill the remainder.
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Construct a water basin around the bush to help irrigate.
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Water thoroughly until the soil is moistened. Add more soil if needed after watering to account for settling.
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Apply 2-4 inches of organic mulch like wood chips around the base, keeping it away from the stem.
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Stake the transplant for support if needed to prevent wind damage.
Proper planting technique will give your transplanted elderberry the best start possible. Be patient and allow it to adapt before resuming fertilizing or aggressive pruning.
Aftercare for Transplanted Elderberries
The first year after transplanting is critical to help the elderberry recover and generate new root growth. Follow these aftercare tips:
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Water frequently, about twice a week. Provide 1-2 inches of water until established.
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Fertilize with a balanced organic fertilizer starting a month after transplanting.
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Watch for signs of transplant shock like leaf wilt or browning. Pinch off affected growth.
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Renew mulch as needed to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
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Avoid taking cuttings or harvesting flowers or berries the first year.
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Prune only lightly to shape once established, avoiding major cuts.
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Stake stems if needed to prevent wind damage while the root system is developing.
With attentive aftercare, your elderberry transplant will thrive in its new spot. Be diligent about watering while new roots establish.
Signs of a Successful Transplant
It can take 1-2 years for a mature transplanted elderberry bush to fully settle in. Signs your transplant was successful include:
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New leaf, shoot, and stem growth emerging in first year.
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Minimal transplant shock or dieback of branches.
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Flowers and berries developing in second year, if pruned properly.
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Evidence of new white roots extending from the root ball.
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Renewed vigor and overall healthy appearance within a couple years.
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No noticeable stunting of growth compared to before transplant.
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Plant remains firmly anchored without drooping or becoming loose.
With the proper steps, transplanting elderberries isn’t difficult. Follow these guidelines for timing, technique, aftercare, and gauging success. Soon you’ll have your relocated American elderberry thriving beautifully in its new garden spot. Don’t be intimidated to undertake transplanting these wonderful landscape shrubs.
‘Black Lace’ Elderberry, Sambucus nigra
This S. nigra variety stands out with pink blooms and dark red leaves.
The ‘Black Lace’ elderberry is a cultivar that looks a bit different. It has showy pink flowers that bloom in the spring and shiny dark purple berries that ripen in the late summer or fall. This cultivar also has beautiful foliage in striking, dark, purplish-red, greatly contrasting with any neighboring plants.
Black Elderberry, Sambucus nigra
Birds and pollinators are attracted to the fruit and bright red stems of black elderberry.
Black elderberry is native to Europe. It can grow up to 20 feet tall and spreads rapidly by root suckering. This plant produces masses of small black fruits on bright red stems and is great for attracting birds and pollinators.
Growing American Elderberries
FAQ
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