With its delicate fluffy white blooms baby’s breath (Gypsophila) is a favorite filler flower for bouquets and floral arrangements. In the garden, its airy charm and ability to hide fading bulb foliage makes it a lovely addition to beds, borders and rock gardens. Baby’s breath is easy to grow, but transplanting this ethereal beauty does require proper timing and care to avoid shock and ensure the plant thrives in its new location.
Why Proper Transplant Timing Matters
Getting the transplant timing right for baby’s breath is key because this plant is vulnerable to extreme cold and heat. Transplanting during active growth stages compounds the stress and can seriously set back the plant Paying attention to the ideal windows for moving baby’s breath minimizes disruption to root and plant development
The Best Time To Transplant Baby’s Breath
Spring and fall are the optimal seasons for transplanting established baby’s breath plants. Here’s why:
Spring Transplanting
Transplanting baby’s breath in spring allows the plant to establish before summer heat and bloom time. The roots have time to recover from the disturbance and begin growing.
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When: Transplant after the last spring frost when soil has warmed up. Avoid transplanting when plants are in active bloom.
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Advantages: Excellent root growth, able to withstand summer stresses better.
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Disadvantages: Risk of cold damage to new transplants if late frost occurs.
Fall Transplanting
Fall transplanting works well as soil is still warm but plants are going dormant.
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When: Transplant 6-8 weeks before first fall frost so roots establish before winter dormancy.
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Advantages: Avoids summer heat and allows natural slowdown of growth going into winter.
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Disadvantages: Colder weather limits root development before dormancy.
Avoid Summer Transplanting
Summer is the most stressful time for baby’s breath. Hot, dry conditions combined with flowering takes a heavy toll. Transplanting during active growth risks shocking the plant.
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When to Avoid: June-August during hot, dry weather when plant is actively blooming.
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Disadvantages: Heat and bloom stress, limited root growth leading to drought damage.
Tips for Transplanting Baby’s Breath
Follow these guidelines to help baby’s breath recover quickly after transplanting:
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Prepare new planting area in advance with loose, fertile soil. Dig holes twice as wide as the root ball.
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Water plants 1-2 days before transplanting to keep roots moist and avoid crumbling.
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Carefully dig up plants trying to keep the root system intact. Avoid damaging roots.
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Transplant at same depth as previously planted, firming soil gently around roots.
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Water thoroughly after transplanting and provide shade if transplanting in summer.
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Allow a few weeks before fertilizing newly transplanted plants.
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Mulch to conserve moisture and monitor water needs carefully.
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Stake tall varieties if needed to prevent stem damage.
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Watch for signs of transplant shock like drooping and provide extra care.
Transplanting Baby’s Breath Seedlings
For plants started from seed indoors, follow these tips:
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Sow seeds 6-8 weeks before your last spring frost.
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Transplant seedlings into cell packs or larger containers when first true leaves appear.
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Harden off young plants and transplant outdoors only after all danger of frost has passed.
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Take care not to disturb delicate baby’s breath roots when transplanting seedlings.
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Keep soil moist and provide shade until seedling transplants are established.
Transplant with Care for Success
While baby’s breath plants are hardy and easy to grow once established, they do require extra care when transplanting at vulnerable stages. Follow the guidelines for ideal timing along with attentive aftercare and you’ll have your baby’s breath thriving in no time. Paying attention to seasonality and plant signals will ensure your efforts bring maximum rewards.
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How to Sow and Plant
Baby’s Breath may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or sown directly in the garden in summer, or planted as a potted plant.
Sowing Seed Indoors:
- Sow indoors 6-8 weeks before outdoor planting date in spring.
- Cover the seeds lightly with ¼ inch of seed starting formula.
- Keep the soil moist at 70 degrees F.
- Seedlings emerge in 10-14 days.
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 2 pairs of true leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots.
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Transplanting in the Garden:
- Select a location in full sun with organic soil. Avoid too moist or acidic soils.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
- The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
- Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
- Dig a hole for each plant, approximately 9 inches apart large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Unpot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root growth.
- Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
- Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.
Sowing Directly in the Garden:
- Direct sow in ordinary garden soil in a sunny area after danger of heavy frost. Avoid too moist or acidic soils.
- Remove weeds and work organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of soil; then level and smooth.
- Sow seeds evenly and thinly in rows 9 inches apart and cover very lightly with ¼ inch of fine soil.
- Firm the soil lightly and keep it evenly moist.
- Seedlings will emerge in 10-14 days.
- Thin seedlings to 9 inches apart when they are 1 inch tall.
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
- Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry. One inch of rain or watering per week is recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by using a rain gauge.
- After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
- Cut back after flowering for a second bloom.
- Cut long stems for fresh or dried arrangements. For fresh flowers cut flowers when they are 1/3 to ½ open.
- To dry, cut sprays at peak of bloom. Remove foliage, bunch loosely and hang upside down in a dry, airy place for 2-3 weeks.
Alternaria Leaf Spot: Small, round reddish brown spots with white to gray centers form on the upper surface of the leaves and along the midrib. The lesions may encircle the stems and cause wilt. This disease is worse in warm, wet or very humid weather. Burpee Recommends: Avoid getting water on the foliage. Remove infected plant parts and do not work around wet plants. Provide plenty of air circulation. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations.
Aster Yellows: Plants are stunted, develop witch’s brooms (excessive growth), petals turn green and become deformed. This virus-like condition is caused is spread by leaf hoppers. Burpee Recommends: Remove infected plants and control leaf hoppers. Remove weeds in the area.
Botrytis: This fungus causes a grey mold on flowers, leaves, stems and buds. It thrives in cool wet weather conditions. Burpee Recommends: Remove affected plant parts, avoid watering at night and getting water on the plant when watering, make sure plants have good air circulation. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations.
Root Rots: A number of pathogens cause root rots of seedlings as well as mature roots. Burpee Recommends: Pull up and discard infected plants. Make sure your soil has excellent drainage. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for recommendations.
Sclerotinia Crown Rot: Dark spots appear on lower stems and roots, plants wilt and rot. A white fungus with dark structures appears on the dead plant tissue. Burpee Recommends: Remove affected plants. Make sure there is good drainage.
Growing Baby’s Breath: How to Plant and Care For Baby’s Breath
FAQ
Can baby’s breath be transplanted?
Where is the best place to plant baby’s breath?
What month do you plant baby’s breath?
Does baby’s breath come back every year?
When should I start a Baby Breath plant?
Start baby’s breath from seed indoors about 6-8 weeks before your last frost date. Perennial varieties can be started as much as ten weeks early. Direct seeding can be done once the soil warms. Wait to transplant seedlings started indoors until after your last frost.
What qualifications must a patient meet to be eligible for a lung transplant?
First, the primary disease is not malignant but benign. In malignant diseases, medical treatment is ineffective. If lung function reaches the terminal stage, the diseased lung cannot meet the patient’s everyday needs. At this point, lung transplantation can be considered if the patient is not older than 69 and has no severe cardiovascular and other diseases. Lung transplantation can be performed if a suitable donor is found, the blood type is comparable, and the lung for transplant does not show rejection.
Can Baby’s Breath be transplanted?
Annual baby’s breath will not need to be repotted, however, perennial baby’s breath will need to be winterized before it is transplanted into a larger container or garden. Although it is a cold hardy plant, potted baby’s breath cannot handle freezing temperatures. Relocate the container to a spot in the ground or place it inside a larger container.
How do you transplant baby breath?
Water the plant well before transplanting. Dig a hole slightly larger than the size of the pot, loosen the soil in the bottom of the hole, insert the root ball, and backfill. Water in after planting. Perennial baby’s breath is drought and salt tolerant, and all varieties are easy to grow.