Knowing your climate zone will help you decide the best time to sow the vegetables, herbs and flowers you want to grow, and which varieties should perform well in your garden. Growing plants that are suited to your climate zone will usually give you the best results in your garden.
You might not recognise the name Porcellio scaber, but youll definitely know the insect it refers to. Introduced to Australia from Europe along with its close cousin Armadillidium vulgare, these common bugs have since taken on the more recognisable names of slaters, butchy boys, pill bugs, wood lice, and many more.
And while they may provoke disgust or even fear when you unexpectedly uncover them, they play a vital role in your garden. You definitely want them there – but you also dont want their numbers to get out of hand.
Baby’s breath is a delicate flowering plant beloved for its airy, feathery blooms. However, these ethereal flowers can fall victim to pests like slaters that chew through leaves and damage plants. If your baby’s breath has been invaded by these pesky critters, don’t worry – here’s how to get rid of slaters on baby’s breath plants using natural remedies and good plant care.
What Are Slaters?
Slaters, also known as woodlice or pillbugs, are small gray crustaceans with segmented, armadillo-like bodies. They thrive in damp, dark environments and feed on decaying plant material. If moisture sources run low, they will turn to living plants like baby’s breath to satisfy their hunger.
Signs of a slater infestation include
- Chewed or skeletonized leaves
- Stems stripped of foliage
- Wilted or dying plants
- Presence of small gray bugs on plants
Thoroughly inspect plants, especially at night when slaters are most active, to identify an infestation early. The sooner you address the issue, the less damage will be done.
Natural Remedies to Get Rid of Slaters
The good news is slaters can be controlled safely and effectively with natural remedies. Here are some of the best organic solutions for keeping these pests off your baby’s breath.
Neem Oil
Extracted from the neem tree, this natural insecticide disrupts slaters’ hormonal systems and deters them from feeding. Mix neem oil with water according to package directions and spray plants, including the undersides of leaves and stems where slaters like to hide. Reapply weekly or after rain.
Insecticidal Soap
Like neem oil, insecticidal soap kills soft-bodied insects through contact. The soap dehydrates and dissolves the waxy cuticle of pests like slaters. Spray leaves thoroughly and repeat applications may be needed.
Beneficial Insects
Recruit good bugs like ground beetles, centipedes, and rove beetles that prey on slaters. These natural predators will help keep pest populations in check. Avoid pesticides that could kill them.
Diatomaceous Earth
This powder contains sharp silica that cuts into slaters’ bodies, causing dehydration and death Dust it around plants and reapply after rain or irrigation Wear a mask when handling diatomaceous earth.
Citrus Peels
Slaters dislike citrus scents. Arrange peels of oranges, lemons, limes, etc. around plants to repel the pests. Replace peels regularly as they lose potency.
Good Plant Care Deters Slaters
Besides direct treatment, certain plant care practices make baby’s breath less appealing to slaters. Here are some tips:
-
Improve drainage and avoid overwatering so soil doesn’t get excessively damp.
-
Space plants appropriately to allow air circulation and prevent humidity buildup.
-
Prune away dead or rotting vegetation that attracts slaters.
-
Remove leaf litter, boards, stones, or other moist debris near plants.
-
Avoid thick mulch right around plants, as it harbors slaters.
-
Use drip irrigation instead of overhead watering when possible.
By promoting drier conditions in your garden, you make life harder for moisture-loving slaters. A healthy, well-cared for baby’s breath plant is also more resistant to pest damage.
When to Use Pesticides
If non-toxic solutions prove ineffective, pesticide sprays like carbaryl may be warranted in severe slater infestations. However, these chemicals can harm pollinators and other beneficial species, so use them only as a last resort. Follow all safety precautions on the label.
For the best chance of success, rotate pesticides with different modes of action so pests don’t build resistance. Avoid broad-spectrum chemicals to spare good bugs in your garden.
Prevent Slaters from Returning
Get rid of slaters currently on your baby’s breath, then take steps to keep them from coming back:
-
Clear plant debris and thick mulch from the garden
-
Fix overly damp areas of soil
-
Check for slaters at night with a flashlight
-
Set up citrus peels or diatomaceous earth as barriers
-
Release beneficial predator insects
-
Spray neem oil or insecticidal soap proactively
Catching an infestation early makes it less likely to spiral out of control. Be vigilant about monitoring your plants and taking action at the first signs of slaters.
With some persistence and the right mix of natural remedies, good cultural practices, and targeted pesticides only when absolutely needed, you can protect your baby’s breath from the ravages of slaters. Get rid of existing pests, make your garden less hospitable to them, and be prepared to intervene promptly if they return.
Final Thoughts
Don’t let slaters take the delicate beauty away from your baby’s breath plants. Control measures like neem oil, insecticidal soap, beneficial insects, citrus peels, and improved plant care can safely and effectively eliminate these pests from your garden. With the right integrated pest management approach, your flowers will remain as lovely and carefree as ever.
:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/babys-breath-garden-favorite-4082480-01-3c98bdcb5f2f4cc7a0f01bd3d256e270.jpg)
How to Use Climate Zones
First, find your climate zone using the map or descriptions below. Next, refer to our sowing chart, which provides approximate sowing times for our most popular seeds for each climate zone.
While knowing your climate zone is helpful when planning your garden, there are many other factors that may affect how your plants grow, including unseasonal weather conditions, the specific microclimate of your garden and how you care for your plants. You know your garden better than us, so if a different climate zone seems to ‘fit’ your garden better, go ahead and use it as a guide.
Our climate zones cover huge areas of Australia, so we recommend gardeners also consider their local conditions when planning what and when to plant. For example, gardeners in alpine areas have shorter growing seasons than gardeners in cool coastal areas, even though both alpine and coastal areas are included in our ‘Cool Temperate’ climate zone. We recommend gardeners in cool regions look at the ‘days to maturity’ information provided for each variety and choose those that will mature in a short (6-12 week) growing season.
- Includes: Darwin, Cairns, Townsville, Exmouth
- High humidity summers with most rainfall in summer and dry, warm winters. Includes northern Australia from Exmouth (WA) across to south of Townsville (Qld).
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Alice Springs, Mildura, Albury-Wodonga, Shepparton, Wagga Wagga, Dubbo
- Hot dry summers, winters can be warm or cool depending on the region. Includes a large area of central Australia from the WA coast to Charleville (Qld), Tamworth (NSW) and Albury-Wodonga (NSW/Vic).
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Brisbane, Bundaberg, Coffs Harbour, Gold Coast, Hervey Bay, Mackay, Rockhampton, Sunshine Coast
- Warm humid summers with high summer rainfall and mild winters. Includes coastal Queensland and northern NSW from north of Mackay to just south of Coffs Harbour.
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Sydney, Perth, Adelaide, Newcastle, Toowoomba, Central Coast NSW, Wollongong, Bunbury
- Moderate humidity and reliable rainfall, with four distinct seasons. Includes coastal areas from north of Port Macquarie to south of Woollongong in NSW, coastal SA and the southeastern coast of WA.
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Melbourne, Canberra, Hobart, Launceston, Ballarat, Bendigo, Geelong, Mt Gambier
- Low humidity with most rainfall in winter; hot dry summers and cold winters. Some regions will experience frosts and snow. Includes coastal areas of south-eastern Australia and alpine areas of Victoria, NSW and Tasmania.
- Set as my climate My climate
What if I can’t find my climate zone? If you can’t locate your zone from looking at the map or the descriptions on this page, we suggest that you think of an area that has a climate that’s similar to yours and use the zone for that area as a guide.
What if I live on the border of two zones? If you live near the border between two zones we suggest you read the descriptions for both zones and decide which best describes the climate where you live. Depending on the microclimate in your garden, you may be able to grow a wider range of plants over a longer season than others in your zone. Lucky you!
What is a microclimate? A microclimate is a small area where the temperature or humidity differs to the climate of the surrounding area. For example, if you live in a climate zone where frosts are common but your garden is protected by buildings or large trees, your garden may be frost-free. Similarly, if you live in a warm temperate zone but your garden is at a high altitude your microclimate may have more in common with the cool temperate zone, so use this as a guide when deciding which zone is relevant to you.
Can I grow varieties not listed for my climate zone? While our climate zones and sowing chart will help you decide what is suitable to plant in your garden, they provide general guidance only. We recommend you start by sowing seed that’s recommended for your climate zone; once you get a few successes under your belt you can experiment with varieties in neighbouring zones and see how you go – gardening is all about experimenting after all!
You might not recognise the name Porcellio scaber, but youll definitely know the insect it refers to. Introduced to Australia from Europe along with its close cousin Armadillidium vulgare, these common bugs have since taken on the more recognisable names of slaters, butchy boys, pill bugs, wood lice, and many more.
And while they may provoke disgust or even fear when you unexpectedly uncover them, they play a vital role in your garden. You definitely want them there – but you also dont want their numbers to get out of hand.
How to Recognise Slaters
Slaters are instantly recognisable from their segmented, grey-brown bodies of between 6mm and 12mm in length. Their seven pairs of legs are put to great use scurrying for cover when disturbed, and if that doesnt escape the threat, theyll often curl up into a tight ball for protection. Its this defensive reflex that provides yet another common name, the roley poley.
Biologically speaking, all species of slaters are among the few land-based crustaceans, belonging to the same wider family as prawns and crabs. And although their watery origins are ancient history, they still need damp conditions to survive.
This tends to stop them moving around during daylight hours, preferring to shelter in dark, moist spots until the cooler night arrives. Their favourite hiding places include behind the bark of rotting wood, underneath plant pots, within organic mulches, and under the surface of compost heaps.
You may occasionally find slaters entering your home, but this is usually just through a spirit of exploration. Most homes are too dry and bright to make a good slater habitat, and so moving the visitors outdoors again is usually the last youll see of them.
Baby’s Breath Care and Handling
FAQ
How to stop woodlice from eating plants?
How to get rid of baby’s breath plant?
How do you grow a Baby Breath plant?
Dig a hole two or three times as wide and deep as the plant. Remove your baby’s breath from its container and place it in the hole. You will want to line the crown of the plant (where the stem meets the roots) with the soil line. You might need to fill in the hole you dig a bit to get it to the right depth.
What bugs eat baby’s breath?
While there are quite a few bugs that eat baby’s breath, one of the most common and more serious are leafhoppers. Adult leafhoopers are small green-yellow bugs with black spots, while leafhopper nymphs are smaller and appear lighter in color. These Gypsophila plant pests are a common pest to other flowers in the garden too, such as asters.
Are Baby’s Breath plants a pest?
Pests of baby’s breath plants can cause both failure of bloom, as well as complete collapse of the plant if young or not yet well established. As with any plant in the flower garden, when identifying Gypsophila plant pests, it is imperative that growers are able to distinguish between beneficial and nuisance insects.
Should I stake Baby’s Breath?
Because baby’s breath is susceptible to stem rot, be sure to grade the soil away from the plant to help prevent water collecting and damaging the plants. Staking will help support the plant, but because the plant is so brittle, be sure to stake baby’s breath plants well before the summer blooms appear to avoid damaging the plant.