How to Get Rid of Worms in Balsam Plant

Balsam plants are prized for their colorful, abundant blooms that thrive in containers and garden beds. However, these popular annuals are prone to infestations by various worm pests that can quickly defoliate and damage plants. Learning how to properly identify and control worms in balsam is key to protecting your plants.

Common Balsam Worms

Several species of moth and butterfly caterpillars feed on balsam foliage and flowers. The most prevalent include:

• Loopers Inchworms that cling to stems and blend in with foliage. Young worms skeletonize leaves while older instars chew large, ragged holes.

• Corn Earworms Voracious green, brown or pink worms that completely defoliate plants. They also feed on flowers and buds.

• Tobacco Budworms Green caterpillars with white stripes that primarily damage flowers and developing seed pods

• Armyworms: Tan worms with dark stripes that march across leaves in large groups, quickly stripping plants.

Manual Removal

Handpicking worms is an organic control option suitable for minor infestations on just a few balsam plants.

• Check plants daily and crush, prune away or drop pests into soapy water. Inspect the undersides of leaves where worms often hide.

• Use forceps or tweezers to remove small loopers clinging to stems that are hard to see and reach. Don’t handle armyworms which have irritating hairs.

• Remove severely damaged foliage and buds by pinching or snipping stems to eliminate further feeding.

Row Covers

Lightweight row cover fabric creates a physical barrier that prevents moths from reaching plants to lay eggs. Drape covers over frames or supports to allow airflow and install at planting time. Seal edges with stakes or soil.

Remove covers when plants start flowering to allow pollination. Use covers to exclude pests from non-blooming seedlings and vegetable transplants.

Natural Predators

Encourage natural predator insects like ladybugs, lacewings and praying mantises which feed on balsam worms. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides that kill beneficials. Introduce predator eggs or larvae early in spring.

Attract wild predators by planting small flower patches with pollen and nectar plants like dill, clover and cosmos nearby. Install bird houses and perches to invite insect-eating birds into your garden.

Organic Sprays

Apply live Bacillus thuringiensis var kurstaki (Btk) bacteria weekly according to label directions. Btk kills larvae but not adults when ingested. It must be reapplied after rain.

Use spinosad-based products which disrupt nervous systems when absorbed through worm skin. Add a spreader-sticker for better adhesion to foliage. Apply as soon as larvae are spotted.

Conventional Insecticides

Synthetic insecticides like carbaryl, cyfluthrin, permethrin and bifenthrin kill all life stages of worms. Smaller caterpillars are easier to control than larger, mature ones.

Target sprays to infested plants only and avoid blooms which bees visit. Do not use soil systemic products which impact pollinators. Follow label precautions and re-entry intervals after applying chemicals.

Neem Oil Sprays

Derived from the neem tree, this traditional botanical oil smothers soft-bodied larvae upon contact. It also repels moths from laying eggs. Apply neem mixed with a small amount of insecticidal soap to help it stick to foliage.

Neem oil is non-toxic to people, pets and most beneficial insects. It also helps deter common garden pests like aphids, whiteflies and Japanese beetles when used preventatively.

Diatomaceous Earth

Sprinkle food-grade diatomaceous earth on soil around plants to kill larvae as they drop down to pupate. The microscopic abrasive particles also deter crawling pests like earwigs. Reapply after rain or watering.

Use a dust mask and goggles when applying as the powder can irritate lungs if inhaled. Avoid plants in bloom to prevent harming pollinators. Diatomaceous earth is safe for pets once watered in.

Trap Crops

Lure egg-laying moths away from balsam plants by planting trap crops like dill, fennel, marigolds or nasturtiums nearby. Concentrating pests on sacrificial plants makes chemical or manual control easier.

Interplant trap crops along borders, in rows between balsam or in containers paired with balsam pots. Just be prepared to treat trap crop plants once infested.

Timely Harvest

Promptly harvesting ripe balsam seeds stops worms from invading drying pods. Prevent moths from entering pods by securing breathable paper bags over developing spikes once the last flowers fade.

Check enclosed pods daily for worms and destroy infested ones immediately. Keeping the area weed-free and clearing spent plants also eliminates egg-laying sites near balsam.

Using several of these organic and chemical control options together can help break the worm lifecycle in balsam plantings. Begin at the first sight of damage and keep plants protected through summer into fall. With persistence, you can enjoy beautiful balsam blooms worm-free!