Relatives of banana within the Order Zingiberales: Numerous ornamental plants including travelers palm, bird-of-paradise, heliconia, and ginger.
Bananas are vigorously growing, monocotyledonous herbaceous plants. There are two species of banana, Musa acuminata and M. balbisiana, and most banana cultivars are hybrids of these species. Banana cultivars vary greatly in plant and fruit size, plant morphology, fruit quality, and disease and insect resistance. Most bananas have a sweet flavor when ripe; exceptions to this are cooking bananas and plantains.
Plantains are hybrid bananas in which the male flowering axis is either degenerated, lacking, or possesses only relicts of male flowers. Plantains are always cooked before consumption and are higher in starch than bananas. The two groups of plantains, French and Horn, produce fewer fruit per plant than sweet bananas. The groups differ in whether the male parts of the inflorescence are persistent or absent.
The banana and plantain are native to southeast Asia, where they have been cultivated for thousands of years. Bananas are believed to have been introduced to Africa in prehistoric times. Recent evidence suggests bananas were introduced into the New World (Ecuador) by southeast Asians around 200 BCE, and more recently by Portuguese and Spanish explorers in the early 16th century. The Portuguese introduced bananas into the Canary Islands and the Spanish to the Island of Hispaniola during the 1500s.
Susceptibility to frost keeps the banana from spreading beyond the tropics and the warm subtropics. However, bananas are grown commercially in a number of subtropical areas such as Australia, Morocco, South Africa, Egypt, Israel, the Canary Islands, and south Florida. In some areas, bananas are grown inside plastic or glass covered structures.
Plantains are an important food source in parts of Africa, southern India, and throughout tropical America. This is because of the ease and stability of production and the highly nutritious nature of the fruit.
Bananas have been grown in scattered locations throughout Florida since their introduction during the 16th century. Limited commercial production has occurred since the late 1800s. Florida is considered a climatically marginal area for commercial banana production due to our subtropical climate and occasional freezes. However, small scale commercial production does occur in southern Florida and producers supply local and regional markets.
Bananas are eaten fresh and used in salads, desserts, breads, and candy. Bananas are a good source of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), Vitamin B6, and potassium. Plantains are cooked before use and may be baked, fried, or grilled. Plantains have similar nutritive value as fresh eating bananas plus Vitamin A, and are an excellent source of carbohydrates (starch).
Banana plants may also be used in the home landscape for ornamental purposes. The range in plant sizes and color and fruit shapes add a tropical atmosphere to the yard. In addition, trees may be used as sun-screens to shade southeastern or western walls.
Whole plant: The banana is a fast-growing plant consisting of one or more pseudostems (upright, trunk-like structures) formed by tightly packed concentric layers of leaf sheaths, an underground rhizome, and a fibrous root system. The entire plant is called a mat. The pseudostem constitutes the functional trunk which supports the leaves and the flower and fruit bearing stalk.
Rhizome (corm): A rhizome is an underground stem with numerous meristems (growing points) from which the pseudostems, flowering and fruiting stalks, and fibrous roots arise.
Sheath and leaves: The banana leaf consists of a long, tube-like structure called a sheath, a stout petiole (leaf stalk), and a lamina or leaf blade. The tight packing of numerous sheaths form the pseudostem. One pseudostem may have over 40 leaves during its lifetime.
Roots: Numerous (200–500) fibrous roots arise from the rhizome. In well drained, deep, fertile soils, roots may extend 5 ft (1.5 m) deep and 16 ft (4.9 m) laterally.
Flowers and fruit: The banana inflorescence (flowering stalk) emerges from the center of the pseudostem 10 to 15 months after planting; by this time 26 to 32 leaves have been produced. The process of banana flowering is called shooting. The flowers appear spirally along the axis of the inflorescence in groups of 10 to 20, covered by purplish-to-greenish fleshy bracts which shed as flowering development progresses. The first flowers to emerge are functionally female. In the edible cultivars, the rapidly growing ovaries develop parthenocarpically (without pollination) into clusters of fruits, called “hands.” The fruit is a berry. Although most banana cultivars produce seedless fruit, some are fertile and can set seed. The last flowers to emerge are functionally male. In plantains, the male flowers may be absent or greatly reduced. The time from shooting to fruit harvest depends upon temperature, cultivar, soil moisture, and cultural practices and ranges from 80 to 180 days. The time from planting a small banana sucker and harvest ranges from 9 to 20 months depending upon temperatures, cultivar, and cultural practices.
Temperature: Bananas flourish under uniformly warm to hot conditions. Shoot growth is best between 78°F to 82°F (26–28°C) and fruit growth at 84°F to 86°F (29–30°C). Plant growth slows below 60°F (16°C) and stops at 50°F (10°C). Symptoms of chilling injury (temperatures below 60°F/16°C but above 32°F/0°C) include failure of the flowering stalk or fruit bunch to emerge from the pseudostem (called choking), development of a dull yellow or greenish-gray color to ripening fruit, distorted fruit shape, and an increase in fruit rotting.
Chilling damage and irreversible freeze damage may occur at or below 32°F (0°C). Symptoms of freeze damage include a water-soaked appearance to all above ground parts of the banana plant and desiccation, browning, and death of leaves, pseudostems, and fruit. Temperatures below 28°F (-2°C) may kill plants to the ground. However, new growth usually sprouts from the underground rhizome with the return of warm weather.
Temperatures at or above 98°F (37°C) may result in leaf scorch and emerging new leaves may have very narrow blades.
Wind: Wind is a common constraint in subtropical production areas. In addition, continuously windy weather may cause severe leaf shredding (mild shredding may be beneficial), drying of the leaves, and plant crown distortion. Winds above 25 mph and 45 mph may cause tall and short banana cultivars (respectively) to topple.
Drought and flooding: Temperature and soil moisture are the most important factors in banana production. Lack of water at any time may cause a reduction in fruit number and size and ultimate crop yield. Banana cultivars with Musa balbisiana genes tend to be more drought tolerant than cultivars of Musa acuminata. Symptoms of drought stress include folding of the leaves, pale green to yellow leaf color development, and premature leaf death. Severe drought stress may cause choking and pseudostem collapse.
Banana plants are not flood tolerant. In general, plants may survive 24 to 48 hours of flooding caused by moving water. Stagnant water kills plants quickly. Bananas should not be planted in flood-prone areas. In areas where the water table is high and/or frequent soil saturation or very brief flooding occurs, planting on beds is recommended. Symptoms of continuously wet but not flooded soil conditions include plant stunting, leaf yellowing, and reduced yields.
Shade: Banana plants are reported to be moderately shade tolerant (up to 50%). However, shading delays plant and fruit growth and development. In more subtropical areas like Florida, full or near-full sun is recommended for best production. Excessively shaded plants are stunted and produce small, poor quality fruit.
Salinity: Banana plants do not grow or fruit well in saline soils. Symptoms of salt damage include yellowing and death of the leaf margins and thin, deformed fruit.
Altitude: Depending upon the local climate, bananas may be grown from sea level to 6,562 ft (2,000 m).
Bananas do best on flat (slope 0–1%), well drained, deep soils high in organic matter with a pH of 5.5–7.0. However, many cultivars perform satisfactorily on the sandy, loamy, muck, and calcareous marl and rocky soils found in south Florida. The most important factor is soil drainage. In those areas susceptible to wet or flooded soil conditions, sufficiently high beds or mounds should be constructed and proper engineering (sloping) of the land for water drainage should be done. The beds will place most of the root system above the saturated soil layer and proper sloping of the ditches between beds should allow for drainage of excessive water off the land.
The most common propagation material is suckers, or pieces of the rhizome. There are 3 types of suckers: maidenhead, a large non-fruiting pseudostem (plus roots and some rhizome); sword sucker, a sucker attached to the original (mother) rhizome with narrow sword-like leaves, and; a water sucker, a sucker next to but only superficially attached to the mother rhizome with broad leaves. Water suckers produce inferior fruit and are therefore not recommended. Large sword suckers and maidenheads are the preferred planting material. Sword suckers should be removed from vigorous clumps with a spade when they are 4–5 ft (1.2–1.5 m) tall. The largest leaves are cut off, leaving only the youngest or none at all. Suckers should have many healthy roots, without symptoms, such as nodulations and internal lesions, of nematode or borer damage. The pseudostems of maidenhead suckers are cut down to 8 inches (20 cm) high and the remaining rhizome is cut into “seed” pieces for planting. In the event that healthy propagating material is not available, the sucker is cut off and its rhizome is pared of all damaged roots and dark tissue, or is cut into pieces containing only white, healthy tissue and a few buds. If nematodes are a problem in the area, it is strongly recommended that nematode-free or hot water treated (described under nematodes) propagating material be used.
Bananas are commercially propagated from meristems by tissue culture. The advantage of this system is that plants are uniform and free of nematodes and most diseases. The disadvantage is the time it takes for small plants to be grown to a sufficient size for sale from the nursery and in some areas their lack of availability.
In south Florida, March, April, and May are the best months for planting if irrigation is available. Otherwise planting should be delayed until the onset of the rains in June. Planting holes should be large (3-ft-wide by 2-ft-deep; 0.9 m x 0.6 m) if possible. Addition and mixing with the native soil of completely composted organic matter or a sand-peat moss mixture may be desirable. Plants should be watered-in thoroughly, and a heavy layer of mulch placed around the suckers immediately after planting will assist in keeping the soil moist and will suppress weeds.
There are many banana cultivars. Parents of the cultivated types are Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana, two wild species which are usually seedy. Banana cultivars are complex diploid, triploid, and tetraploid hybrids among M. acuminata and M. balbisiana. In general, those with a high proportion of M. acuminata produce sweet fruit, whereas those with a high proportion of M. balbisiana produce starchy fruit.
Conventionally, the relative contribution of M. acuminata and M. balbisiana to the cultivar is indicated with As and Bs, respectively. They are further classified as to the presence of one or more sets of chromosomes (called ploidy level). For example, an AB is diploid, an AAB, triploid, and ABBB, tetraploid. Triploid cultivars are the most common, diploids somewhat less common, and tetraploids, uncommon.
There are numerous banana and plantain cultivars listed in Table 1 and Table 2. However, many of them are not adapted to Floridas climate and are not readily available. Cultivars have many local names making identification of specific clones difficult by common name. To help avoid this, common names along with their A/B constitution and ploidy level are used.
Banana plants are tropical beauties known for their impressively large leaves and rapid growth. But just how tall can these fast-growing giants get? The maximum height depends on several key factors.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore how tall banana plants can grow and what affects their ultimate stature. Read on for tips to help your banana reach its full height potential!
An Overview of Banana Plant Size
Banana plants belong to the genus Musa and are technically giant herbs, not trees. They have a soft stem called a pseudostem made up of overlapping leaf stalks. This pseudostem can grow quite tall, topped by large paddle-shaped leaves.
Most banana varieties reach 15-20 feet tall at maturity. However, some compact banana cultivars only grow 4-6 feet tall, while the tallest can exceed 40 feet!
Even “dwarf” banana plants usually surpass 6 feet, making them quite a statement in any garden. Their impressive dimensions are part of their tropical appeal.
Factors That Influence Banana Plant Height
Many variables impact how tall a banana plant ultimately grows. The major factors include:
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Variety/cultivar – The most influential factor is banana type. Compact varieties max out under 10 feet, while giant cultivars can triple that size.
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Growing conditions – Optimal warmth, light, water and soil will maximize height potential. Subpar care stunts growth.
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Container vs ground planting – Plants grown in the ground generally grow larger than container-bound plants.
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Pruning and training – Regular pruning or training to a trellis limits height. Allowing unpruned growth enables maximum size.
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Time and maturity – Given enough time to fully mature, banana plants will achieve their tallest stature, which takes 1-2 years.
By considering these key factors, you can better predict your banana’s approximate full grown height.
Choosing a Banana Variety by Height
With over 1,000 banana varieties to pick from, selecting one suited to your needs is key. Consider mature plant heights when deciding:
Compact dwarf varieties under 8 feet:
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Cavendish: A popular compact variety perfect for containers. Grows 4-6 feet tall.
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Super Dwarf Cavendish: As the name implies, this is a super short Cavendish type reaching just 3-5 feet.
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Dwarf Orinoco: An ornamental variety with variegated leaves, it hits 6-8 feet at maturity.
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Dwarf Namwah: A robust dwarf with sweet bananas, it can grow 6-10 feet outdoors but stays more compact indoors.
Mid-size varieties of 10-20 feet:
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Raja Puri: This small-medium cultivar bears tasty fruit and reaches 10-12 feet tall.
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Lady Finger: A tall, slender plant reaching 15 feet indoors and 20 feet outdoors.
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Mona Lisa: A compact ladyfinger type that hits 10-15 feet at maturity.
Giant varieties over 25 feet:
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Gros Michel: This popular banana can surpass 30 feet tall at full maturity!
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Blue Java: A cold hardy banana capable of growing 25-30 feet high.
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Manzano: Native to the tropics, this giant reaches 30-40 feet tall under ideal conditions.
No matter your space restrictions, there’s a banana plant that can fit! Just be sure to choose wisely based on mature heights.
Achieving Maximum Height Outdoors
When grown outside in the ground, banana plants have the space and ideal conditions to reach extraordinary heights. To maximize growth:
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Pick a giant variety suited to your climate – this provides the genetics to hit impressive dimensions.
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Plant in rich, fertile soil – bananas are heavy feeders and thrive in compost-amended beds.
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Provide full sun – at least 6 hours daily ensures vigorous growth. Morning sun is preferable.
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Water frequently – 1-2 inches of water per week, increased in hot conditions. Excellent drainage is a must.
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Shelter from wind – stake and protect plants from gusts, which can shred leaves and topple small plants.
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Fertilize often – monthly feedings with a balanced fertilizer keep plants robust and rapidly growing skyward.
With ample room and optimal care, outdoor banana plants can achieve their full genetic height potential of 25-40 feet!
Maximizing Height Indoors
While indoor banana plants may not reach the same stature as those grown outside, they can still impress. Follow these indoor growing strategies:
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Provide bright light – a south facing window is ideal. Supplement with grow lights if needed.
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Use large containers – a minimum of 25 gallons is recommended for unrestricted root growth.
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Keep temperatures warm – banana plants require 70°F+ temperatures to thrive indoors.
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Increase humidity – mist leaves and use a humidifier to mimic the tropics.
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Stake and prune – staking prevents toppling, while pruning limits runaway growth.
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Fertilize regularly – feed monthly with indoor plant fertilizer to fuel growth.
With attentive care, most indoor banana varieties can achieve heights of 12-18 feet at maturity. Just be sure to have high ceilings!
Factors That Restrict Height
While the right growing conditions enable banana plants to reach for the sky, some factors lead to shorter plants:
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Insufficient light – without ample sunshine, plants grow leggy and stunted.
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Poor nutrition – banana plants need rich soil and regular feeding. Lack of nutrients restricts size.
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Low temperatures – anything below 65°F slows growth dramatically.
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Small containers – roots become pot bound, limiting nutrients and water uptake.
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Overpruning – while pruning controls height, overdoing it weakens the plant.
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High winds – exposed sites cause leaf shredding and toppling.
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Disease and pests – unhealthy plants channel energy into survival rather than growth.
Be sure to minimize these limiting factors to help your banana plant achieve its maximum potential stature.
Caring for Oversized Banana Plants
If your banana plant begins exceeding your space restrictions, take action before it gets out of hand:
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Stake tall plants for support using sturdy wooden or metal stakes.
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Prune regularly to remove extra leaves and limit upward growth.
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Train plants to trellises to direct growth sideways rather than up.
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Divide rhizomes every few years to control spread.
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Transfer to a larger container if roots become pot bound.
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Move outdoors if height is unmanageable for indoor spaces.
With vigilance and training, even giant banana varieties can be managed at a workable size.
Enjoying the Impressive Height
One of the banana plant’s most striking features is its ability to rapidly attain impressive heights year after year. By selecting an appropriate cultivar and providing ideal growing conditions, you can enjoy your banana’s journey skyward.
Pay close attention to each variety’s expected mature height and adjust your care accordingly. With the right choice and a little effort, your banana’s tremendous tropical foliage will grace your garden with beautiful tropical flair.
The banana plant’s majestic proportions make it the undisputed king of large exotic leaves. Allow it to reach its full potential by minimizing restricting factors and giving it ample space to grow. Then relax and enjoy the view from underneath its enormous canopy of leaves!
Planting a Banana Plant
In general, banana plants should be planted in full sun for best growth and fruit production. However, banana plants do tolerate light shade. In general, select a part of the landscape away from other trees, buildings and structures, and power lines. Banana plants may be planted 10 ft or more adjacent to outdoor walls as a sunscreen. Caution, placing banana plants near windows may be hazardous because of potential toppling during strong winds. Select the warmest area of the landscape that does not flood (or remain wet) after typical summer rainfall events.
Planting distance for banana plants varies with the ultimate size of the variety. Dwarf or small stature banana plants may be planted 20 ft or more from other plants but may be planted as close as 8 ft from other dwarf or small stature banana plants. Large banana varieties should be planted 12 or more feet from other banana plants to leave room for expansion of the mat.
With judicious watering, fertilization, timely weeding, pseudostem pruning, and the use of large healthy suckers for planting material, fruits will mature in 10–24 months after planting. The time from planting rhizomes to first harvest usually takes longer to produce fruit and the first bunch is, as a rule, smaller than normal.
Planting on a Mound
Many areas in Florida are within 7 ft (2.1 m) or so of the water table and experience occasional flooding after heavy rainfall events. To improve plant survival consider planting fruit trees on a 2 to 3 ft (0.6–0.9 m) high by 4 to 10 ft (1.2–3.1 m) diameter mound of native soil.
After the mound is made, dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times a deep as the container the banana plant has come in. In areas where the bedrock nearly comes to the surface (rockland soil) follow the recommendations for the previous section. In areas with sandy soil follow the recommendations from the section on planting in sandy soil.
How tall can a tree grow? – Valentin Hammoudi
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