“Roots, Shoots, Fruits and Flowers” is a landscape blog that invites homeowners to submit questions about their plant and garden concerns. This edition will look at assorted tree issues.
One of the blog readers sent a picture of a scarred live oak. She wrote, “The tree that you recently looked at for my aunt in Lake Arthur, it was struck by lightning yesterday afternoon. I am attaching pictures of the damage. At this point do they just watch for branch decline? From what I have researched, it seems like it is just a wait and see kind of thing. I welcome your advice on this situation.”
According to the Texas Agrilife Extension website, “If only one side of the tree shows evidence of a lightning strike, the chances of the tree surviving and eventually closing the wound are good. If the tree survives long enough to leaf out the following spring, then the chances of recovery are much greater. Watering and fertilization are suggested to reduce tree stress.” Also, live oaks are tough trees, so the future of this particular tree is promising.
One homeowner brought a weed sample for identification because it was displacing his St. Augustinegrass. An LSU AgCenter weed specialist identified it as wavy basketgrass.
According to the University of Maryland (UM) Extension, “This forest grass from southeast Asia … had spread to cover acres of wooded ground, outcompeting native plants.” This weed is highly shade tolerant, and “the plant blooms in late September and into October, producing small seeds that stick to everything, including passing people and animals who disperse it to new areas.”
Basketgrass seems to mimic cogongrass in the way it will invade a woodland, prevent natural regeneration of trees and displace native plants and animals.
UM Extension offers this treatment, “To control this grass, you can hand-pull small populations, preferably before it goes to seed. If it has already spread to a wide area, you can spray it with 1% to 2% glyphosate. If you accidentally wander into a patch of wavyleaf basketgrass in seed, try to remove all the seed immediately, disposing of the seed in the trash.”
A retired forester sent a picture of an insect taken with his cell phone. At first, the looked unreal, like an alien insect from another dimension. It appeared to have a duck’s bill.
In the , the front legs are folded to look like duck lips from this angle. Victoria Bayless, curator of the Louisiana State Arthropod Museum, identified the insect as a mantidfly. According to Texas A&M Agrilife Extension Service, it is “medically unimportant” which means it is harmless and stingless. They also noted, “Immature stages feed on spider egg masses or larvae of wasps” so it is a beneficial insect.
Another follower sent an email and a couple of pictures for comment, “I need your assistance identifying what is happening with two trees.”
Both trees have old wounds, and they are callousing over very well. The wood of these trees seems to be solid, and the wounds will be calloused over eventually. The tree on the far left looks like a wound from some type of equipment contact. The tree on the right has a wound from an earlier pruning. Based on these s, these trees should be around for a long time.
A professional exterminator wanted to learn about a possible plant pest. He wrote, “I am not as good on my plant pests as I am my structural pests. Someone sent me the attached [] to identify and said they found it on a fig tree. Any ideas? It looks like a newly emerged beetle of some sort that has not had time for the exoskeleton to harden.
Chris Carlton, an entomology diagnostician at LSU AgCenter, helped with the identification. He said, “Almost certainly [a hardwood stump borer]. If it is still alive, putting it in some moist soil and rearing the adult would confirm. The size, head orientation and antennae are all wrong for the fig borer. I rarely see that species and did not know it was a pest.
An online resource, www.insectidentification.org, provided additional information about this insect. “The larvae of this species are usually found inside tree stumps, decks and other wooden structures. Sometimes it is found in living trees that have not been cut down. They eat away at the wood as they develop. They leave holes in the wood as they exit the tree. It can take three to four years for a grub to fully mature. Most types of hardwood trees can serve as hosts for this type of beetle like willow, maple, oak, elm and pecan trees. In large numbers, hardwood stump borers can negatively impact furniture, flooring and other wood-based industries.”
Our friends at Texas A&M Agrilife Extension advise this precaution, “The [adult form of the] hardwood stump borer is not an aggressive beetle and is not considered dangerous; [however,] the hefty mandibles it has will draw blood if handled carelessly and aggressively.”
landscape contractor brought in a branch from an oak tree with numerous leaf spots. The uniformity of the spotting looked suspicious. After asking the landscaper about any treatments, he said the homeowner had washed his house with a bleach solution. I suspected a drift problem from the bleach treatment.
However, this diagnosis was wrong, and the condition is a fungal leaf spot and not bleach drift as suspected.
Raj Singh, LSU AgCenter’s plant disease specialist, wrote, “These are in fact fungal leaf spots. It looks uniform in pattern because there are so many of them. But if you look closely, there are a lot of different sizes, and no two leaves have the same pattern. Also, the spots have characteristic fungal characters including light tan centers with dark brown margins. Bleach drift will be more a blight or burn kind of damage leading to loss of chlorophyll.”
OK, these are leaf spots, but what kind? At this point, the best estimate is tubakia leaf spot, a fungal disease. Because it is late in the growing season, the best treatment for this condition is to gather the leaves after they fall off and destroy them to prevent spread of this disease.
Basket grass, scientifically known as Oplismenus hirtellus, is a popular ornamental grass utilized in landscapes and indoor gardens for its lush green foliage However, a common problem that basket grass plant owners face is the appearance of hard spots on the leaves and stems These unsightly blemishes can negatively impact the plant’s aesthetic appeal and indicate underlying health issues. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the various causes of hard spots on basket grass and effective treatment methods to restore the plant to its former glory.
What Causes Hard Spots on Basket Grass Plants?
There are several potential factors that can cause hard spots to develop on basket grass
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Overwatering – Excess moisture around the roots leads to root rot, which manifests as hard, brown spots on the foliage. This is one of the most common reasons for hard spots.
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Poor drainage – When water cannot drain away properly, it accumulates around the roots leading to root rot. Hard spots subsequently appear.
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Nutrient deficiencies – Lack of essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium can cause discolored, hard spots on the leaves.
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Pests & diseases – Infestations of spider mites, fungal infections like leaf spot can cause damage and hard spots on basket grass.
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Environmental stress – Excessive heat, cold, direct sunlight or inadequate humidity causes stress on the plant. This makes it prone to hard spots.
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Mechanical damage – Physical damage from lawnmowers, string trimmers or hail can also create wounds on the plant leading to hard spots.
Identifying Hard Spots on Basket Grass
To diagnose the cause of hard spots accurately, start by closely examining the plant for any signs of pests, diseases or mechanical injury. Next, check the moisture level of the soil by touch. Excess moisture indicates overwatering. Also, inspect the drainage and fertilization being provided to the plant.
Here are some characteristic features of common hard spots:
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Round spots with brown margins – This indicates leaf spot disease. The spots enlarge and turn brown as the disease progresses.
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White powdery coating – A white, mealy layer on leaves and stems signals powdery mildew infection.
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Wet, dark lesions – Bacterial blight causes wet, necrotic spots that may ooze.
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Rust colored bumps – Rust fungus leads to reddish-orange bumps on the leaves.
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Random, dried lesions – Non-specific leaf necrosis and hard spots can be due to incorrect moisture, nutrients, or environmental conditions.
Treating Hard Spots on Basket Grass
Once the cause of the hard spots has been determined, appropriate treatment can be provided:
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Improve drainage – Repot or amend soil with sand and perlite to improve drainage.
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Adjust watering – Water only when top inch of soil is dry to prevent overwatering.
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Provide fertilizer – Use a balanced 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer to correct any nutrient deficiencies.
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Treat pests & diseases – Use neem oil, insecticidal soap or appropriate fungicides. Remove badly infected parts.
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Prune affected areas – Prune off any dead or dying leaves and stems with clean, sterilized shears.
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Protect from environment – Provide shade from hot sunlight and improve air circulation. Maintain 40-60% humidity.
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Wait and monitor – If hard spots are from mechanical damage, allow the plant to heal itself.
Preventing Hard Spots on Basket Grass
Prevention is better than cure when it comes to plant health. Here are some tips to avoid hard spots on your basket grass plant:
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Water deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to partially dry out between waterings.
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Ensure the container or planting area has adequate drainage holes.
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Apply a balanced fertilizer every 6-8 weeks during the growing season.
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Inspect regularly for pests and diseases. Take action promptly if discovered.
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Prune overgrown areas and remove dead leaves/stems to improve air circulation.
-shelter from harsh weather and direct sunlight.
- Avoid mowing or trimming wet foliage to prevent wounding plant tissues.
When to Seek Help With Hard Spots?
In most cases, the above measures will help treat and prevent hard spots on basket grass. However, it is advisable to seek expert help if:
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The spots rapidly worsen or spread despite treatment.
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Significant portions of the plant appear dead or dying.
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You are unable to diagnose the cause of the spots.
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The plant fails to improve despite corrective actions.
A lawn care specialist, horticulturist or plant pathologist can accurately diagnose stubborn hard spots through microscopic analysis, lab tests and their experience. They can provide specific treatment recommendations or prescribe commercial-grade fungicides as needed. Reach out to local university extension services to be connected with plant health experts in your area.
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Invasive Species Spotlight — Wavyleaf Basketgrass
FAQ
How do you prune basket grass?
How to maintain basket grass?
How does basket grass spread?
Is basket grass a perennial or annual?
Is basketgrass a weed?
Basketgrass is the common name of a species of Oplismenus, a weed commonly found in shady lawns and landscapes. It is also known as woodsgrass, jewgrass and wavyleaf basketgrass. Many species of Oplismenus grow in Central Florida and Oplismenus setarius is a native perennial while Oplismenus hirtellus is an introduced exotic.
Can basketgrass grow in a shady area?
Basketgrass commonly grows in shady areas. Although it can form a dense groundcover, it goes dormant and doesn’t stay green all year. Additionally, trying to grow turfgrass in an area where basketgrass grows can also be challenging. Basketgrass is a sign that the area gets too little sunlight to grow turf.
Is basketgrass a problem?
Basketgrass is problematic in shady areas of the landscape where, once established, it can be difficult to eradicate. It is shade-tolerant, low-growing and can easily take over an area where turfgrass may be struggling. It requires little to no irrigation or maintenance and will create a dense groundcover if left alone. How can I get rid of it?
How do I get rid of basketgrass?
Another option is to spot treat with an herbicide, making sure to spray only the weed and not desirable plants. If basketgrass is a significant weedy problem, you can apply a granular, pre-emergence herbicide that will inhibit weed seeds from sprouting.