With their delicate, papery flowers and trailing habit, these exotic plants from subtropical climes can add a touch of colour to the dramatic foliage of tropical-looking plants such as gingers, cannas and bananas. Words John Hoyland, photographs Torie Chugg
Abutilon are a large group of tropical shrubs grown for their colourful, bell-shaped or lantern-like flowers. Commonly known as Indian mallow, flowering maple and Chinese lanterns, abutilon come from the tropical and sub-tropical regions of Asia, Africa, Australia, North and South America and most flower during July to September.
The genus’s heyday was during the Victorian and Edwardian eras when they were widely grown both in large private gardens and in public parks, used as accent plants or as the centrepieces of elaborate bedding schemes. Of the estimated 200 species, very few have the decorative qualities that would appeal to gardeners. Several of the showiest hybrids come from a handful of South American species (some of which are now recognised in the related genus Corynabutilon). In the wild, they tend to be found growing in rich, moist soil under the dappled shade of tall trees.
The abutilon, also known as flowering maple, is a beautiful plant known for its ornamental value With maple-shaped leaves and colorful blooms, this plant can be a gorgeous addition to any indoor space However, caring for an abutilon plant in a pot requires paying attention to some key components.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know to keep your abutilon houseplant happy and healthy.
Choosing the Right Pot
When selecting a container for your abutilon plant, bigger is better. Choose a pot that is 2-4 inches wider than the current pot to allow room for growth. The pot must have drainage holes at the bottom to prevent waterlogged soil. A pot with no drainage will lead to root rot.
Terracotta or ceramic pots work well as they allow air circulation to the roots. Make sure to use a saucer under the pot to catch excess water.
The Perfect Potting Mix
Abutilons need loose, well-draining soil to thrive. A quality potting mix for indoor plants is ideal. Look for a mix containing:
- Peat moss or coconut coir to retain some moisture
- Perlite or vermiculite to improve drainage
- Compost for nutrients
You can also add extra perlite or small rocks to improve drainage. Avoid regular garden soil as it will compact over time.
Bright, Indirect Sunlight
When it comes to light, abutilons prefer bright but indirect sunlight. Place your potted plant near an east or west-facing window. A south-facing window can work if you use a sheer curtain to diffuse the light.
Too much direct sun will scorch the leaves. Rotate the plant weekly to prevent uneven growth.
Moderate Watering
Abutilon plants are prone to root rot if overwatered. Allow the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings. The timing will vary based on factors like temperature, humidity, sunlight, etc.
To check if your plant needs water, insert your finger into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. Make sure excess water drains out the bottom after irrigating.
Regular Feeding
As continuous bloomers, abutilons are heavy feeders. Fertilize every 2-4 weeks during spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. Too much fertilizer can damage the roots.
In fall and winter, reduce feeding to once a month. Always follow label directions for correct dilution and application.
Ideal Temperature
Abutilons prefer warm conditions between 60-80°F. Keep them away from drafty areas as well as heating/cooling vents. Maintain humidity around 50-60% if possible.
Pruning for Shape
To keep your abutilon bushy, pinch off or trim leggy growth throughout the season. In early spring, prune back stems by 1/3 their length to shape the plant and encourage branching.
Remove any dead or damaged growth at the same time. Disinfect pruners between cuts to avoid disease spread.
Dealing With Pests
Check often for common houseplant pests like spider mites, mealybugs, whiteflies and aphids. Isolate any infested plants. Wash leaves with soapy water or use neem oil/insecticidal soap sprays.
Sticky traps can catch adult insects. Repeat treatments weekly until pests are gone. Maintain vigor with proper care.
Preventing Disease
Overwatering is the main cause of diseases like root rot, botrytis and powdery mildew. Allow soil to dry between waterings and keep humidity in check. Remove affected leaves/stems. Improve air circulation with a fan. Apply fungicides only if needed.
Getting Abutilons to Bloom
Given proper care, abutilons will bloom freely indoors. Flowers range from red, orange, yellow, pink, and white depending on variety. To maximize blooms:
- Site in a sunny location
- Keep actively growing with consistent water and fertilizer
- Deadhead spent blooms to encourage new buds
- Avoid temperature extremes
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Here are some quick tips if your abutilon plant shows signs of trouble:
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Yellow leaves – Usually a sign of overwatering. Allow soil to dry out between waterings.
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Wilting leaves – Check for underwatering and water if soil is dry.
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Leaf drop – Can indicate underwatering, overwatering, or too much fertilizer.
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Leggy growth – Needs more sunlight. Pinch back to encourage bushiness.
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Flower drop – May be caused by overwatering, low humidity or temperature stress.
Enjoying Your Abutilon Houseplant
Caring for an abutilon houseplant is very rewarding when you provide what it needs to thrive. With the proper pot, potting mix, water, light, humidity and fertilizer, your abutilon will grace your indoor space with beauty for years to come!
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Abutilon pests and diseases
Abutilons that are grown outdoors are trouble free and not susceptible to any pests. Those that are grown in the conservatory are prone to the usual range of conservatory pests, particularly scale insects and red spider mite. You can identify red spider mite from mottling on the leaves and, in heavy infestations, a fine, silky web that covers the foliage. Control it from early spring by introducing predatory mites. Scale insects, which look like small blisters on the underside of leaves, are less of a problem but they should be removed by hand as soon as you spot them. Ladybirds will eat them and at the same time deal with mealybugs, which are a tiny white insect that sucks on the sap of the plants.
The best abutilon to grow in your garden
A cultivar of the trailing abutilon from Brazil and Chile. The long, arching stems can be tied into a trellis, pergola or wall, or they can be allowed to cascade over a pot. Flowers from midsummer through to autumn. 3m x 2m. RHS H2, USDA 9a-11†.
One of several hybrids introduced by National Collection holders Teri and Eric Turner before retiring from their nursery, T3 Plants. A floriferous plant blooming from late spring, the flowers are a wide bell shape with pale-lemon petals. 1m x 50cm. RHS H2, USDA 9a-11.
Of all the white-flowered abutilons, this is the one that probably has the most sparklingly clean, white flowers; their colour enhanced by their velvety bright-green leaves. Blooms from June to September. 80cm x 50cm. RHS H2, USDA 9a-11.
The semi-evergreen, bright-green foliage is a perfect background for the profusion of lemon-yellow bells. The shrub has an upright habit and is often grown as a single-stem standard. Flowers June to September. 1m x 70cm. RHS H2, USDA 9a-11.
One of several abutilons, all with variegated foliage, that were developed at Cannington College, Somerset, in the 1970s. Its dark-green leaves are mottled with yellow and cream, some to such an extent that they are entirely cream coloured. 80cm x 50cm. AGM. RHS H2, USDA 9a-11.
Cara’s Friday Favorite for Container Gardening: Abutilon
FAQ
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