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Bananas may be one of the most popular fruits sold in the United States. Grown commercially as a food source, bananas also feature prominently in warm region gardens and conservatories, making striking additions to the landscape. When planted in areas with plenty of sun, bananas are not all that hard to grow, but problems with banana plants are bound to crop up nonetheless. What kinds of banana plant pests and diseases are there? Keep reading to find out how to solve problems with banana plants.
Caterpillars can be a real nuisance for any gardener growing abyssinian banana trees. These hungry little creatures can quickly defoliate plants and ruin their appearance. But never fear – there are plenty of effective methods for getting rid of caterpillars on your prized abyssinian banana trees.
Identify the Culprits
The first step is identifying what type of caterpillars you are dealing with. Some of the most common species that enjoy munching on banana leaves include
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Armyworms – These caterpillars can appear solitary or in large groups. They have brown green black, and yellow stripes running along their plump bodies.
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Banana skippers – Solitary caterpillars with green bodies and brown heads. They blend in well with banana leaves.
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Cutworms – Thick bodied caterpillars that hide in soil during the day and emerge at night to feed. They can range from green to brown or black in color.
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Fruit tree loopers – Slender light green caterpillars with white stripes running along their bodies
Take a close look at the caterpillars, their markings, and behavior to help pinpoint what species you are dealing with. Proper identification will allow you to choose the best removal methods.
Manual Removal
Manually removing caterpillars by hand is one of the simplest control methods. Just put on some gloves and start plucking! Look closely at leaves – especially the undersides – and also check leaf axils and new shoots where caterpillars like to hide. Drop any collected caterpillars into a bucket of soapy water to finish them off.
Regular inspections and manual removal can help nip small infestations in the bud before major damage occurs. Just be diligent as any missed caterpillars will continue munching. Combine manual removal with other methods for best effect.
Apply Bacillus thuringiensis
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a natural bacterium that infects and kills caterpillars when they ingest it, but is safe for people and pets. Bt comes in liquid sprays or dusts that you apply directly to your plants. The caterpillars essentially die after eating Bt treated foliage.
Follow label instructions carefully when applying Bt. Make sure to coat the undersides of leaves where caterpillars do most of their feeding. Depending on the product, you may need to reapply every 1-2 weeks. Bt works best on smaller caterpillars rather than larger mature ones.
Use Horticultural Oils
Lightweight horticultural oils suffocate soft bodied insects like caterpillars. The oils can also deter egg laying by female moths. Mix the oil with water according to label directions and spray on the banana trees. Be sure to coat the undersides of leaves thoroughly.
Horticultural oils are most effective against young caterpillars and eggs, so regular applications may be needed to control infestations. Avoid spraying the oils during the hottest part of the day or onto water-stressed plants.
Apply Insecticidal Soap
Insecticidal soaps made from potassium salts of fatty acids can help control many soft bodied pests like caterpillars. Mix the soap with water per label instructions and spray directly onto the caterpillars to penetrate their skin and dehydrate them.
Repeat applications are needed every 5-7 days for effective control. Be aware that insecticidal soaps can harm beneficial insects too. Stick to just spraying infested areas of plants to reduce this effect.
Encourage Natural Predators
There are many beneficial predators and parasitic wasps that feed on caterpillars. Attract these natural pest controllers to your yard by planting nectar-rich flowers and limiting pesticide use.
Ladybugs, lacewings, birds, praying mantises, and spiders all consume caterpillars. You can also purchase some predatory insects to release into your garden. Let nature help restore balance and keep caterpillar numbers in check.
Apply Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous earth (DE) is made from crushed fossils of aquatic organisms. The sharp DE particles pierce the waxy outer coating of caterpillars, causing them to dry out and die.
Dust DE onto dry foliage, as moisture reduces its effectiveness. Focus on the undersides of leaves where caterpillars feed. Reapply DE after rain or watering. Use food grade DE and avoid breathing in the dust while applying.
Use Physical Barriers
Row covers, fabric screens, and other physical barriers can prevent moth adults from reaching plants to lay caterpillar eggs. Drape the barriers over plants and secure the edges with weights or garden staples.
Just be sure to remove the screens periodically to allow for pollination. Also check for any caterpillars trapped inside so they don’t continue feeding! This method is best used at the start of the growing season before major infestations develop.
Maintain Good Garden Hygiene
Sanitation goes a long way in caterpillar control. Remove any fallen leaves, fruits, or other plant debris where caterpillars and moths like to hide. Keep the garden tidy and prevent weeds from growing.
Prune out heavily infested branches and dispose of them away from your garden. After harvest, chop down banana stems and foliage to eliminate overwintering sites. A clean garden means fewer places for caterpillars to thrive.
Use Pheromone Traps
For severe infestations, pheromone traps can capture adult male moths and reduce mating and egg laying. The traps contain pheromones that mimic female moth scents, luring the males inside.
Place traps away from plants to prevent catching beneficial insects too. Be sure to check and empty out traps regularly to prevent buildup. Traps may need to be deployed early in the season for best effect.
Apply Neem Oil
Neem oil comes from the seeds of the neem tree. It contains azadirachtin that disturbs the hormones of caterpillars, deterring them from feeding on treated plants. Neem oil also repels some moth species.
To use, mix neem oil with water per label directions and spray onto banana trees. Hit the undersides of leaves thoroughly. Neem oil is non-toxic to people, pets, and beneficial insects when used properly. It degrades quickly so reapplication is needed every 7-14 days.
Cultivate Trap Crops
Trap crops lure pests away from your main plants. Mustard, nasturtiums, and marigolds are good trap crops for caterpillars. Interplant these with your bananas or place them around the perimeter.
The trap plants will be more attractive to egg-laying moths and you can then target caterpillar control efforts just on the designated trap plants. Be prepared to sacrifice the trap crops to protect your bananas.
Use Chemical Insecticides
If non-chemical methods fail to control heavy infestations, chemical insecticides are an option as a last resort. Always read and follow the label directions carefully. Do not overuse these products as they can harm beneficials and create pest resistance over time.
Some common chemical insecticides used against caterpillars include carbaryl, cyfluthrin, bifenthrin and spinosad. Hire a licensed pest control professional if you are uncomfortable applying these yourself. Prioritize safety for yourself, others, and the environment when using chemical controls.
Be Patient and Persistent
Getting rid of caterpillars takes some time and effort. No single method will provide a quick fix. Be prepared to regularly monitor your plants, repeating control applications, and combining different techniques for effective long-term management.
Don’t give up at the first sign of leaves being nibbled – persevere with your caterpillar busting efforts and you can protect your beloved abyssinian banana trees. With a little patience and persistence, your plants will soon be caterpillar free and thriving once again.
Growing Banana Plant Problems
Bananas are monocotyledonous herbaceous plants, not trees, of which there are two species– Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana, native to southeast Asia. Most banana cultivars are hybrids of these two species. Bananas were most likely introduced to the New World by southeast Asians around 200 B.C. and by Portuguese and Spanish explorers in the early 16th century. The majority of bananas are not hardy and are susceptible to even a light freeze. Extreme cold damage results in the dieback of the crown. Leaves will also naturally shed in exposed areas, an adaptation to tropical storms. Leaves may droop from under or overwatering while brown edges indicate a lack of water or humidity. Another growing banana plant problem is the plant’s size and propensity to spread. Keep that in mind when locating a banana in your garden. Along with these concerns, there are many banana pests and diseases that may afflict a banana plant.
A number of insect pests can affect banana plants. Here are the most common:
- Nematodes: Nematodes are a common banana plant pest. They cause rotting of the corms and act as a vector to the fungus Fusarium oxysporum. There are a number of different species of nematode that like bananas as much as we do. Commercial farmers apply nematicides, which when properly applied, will protect the crop. Otherwise, the soil has to be cleared, plowed, and then exposed to the sun and left fallow for up to three years.
- Weevils: The black weevil (Cosmopolites sordidus) or banana stalk borer, banana weevil borer, or corm weevil is the second most destructive pest. Black weevils attack the base of the pseudostem and tunnel upward whereupon a jelly-like sap oozes out from the entry point. Different pesticides are used commercially depending upon the country to control black weevils. Biological control utilizes a predator, Piaesius javanus, but has not been shown to have any truly beneficial results.
- Thrips: Banana rust thrips (C. signipennis), as its name suggests, stains the peel, causing it to split and exposes the flesh which then begins to rot. Insecticidal dust (Diazinon) or a spraying of Dieldrin can control thrips, which pupate in the soil. Additional insecticides combined with polyethylene bagging are also used to control thrips on commercial farms.
- Scarring beetle: The banana fruit scarring beetle, or coquito, invades the bunches when the fruit is young. The banana scab moth infests the inflorescence and is controlled with the use of an injection or dusting of pesticide.
- Sap-sucking insects: Mealybugs, red spider mites, and aphids may also pay a visit to banana plants.
There are quite a number of banana plant diseases that can afflict this plant as well.
- Sigatoka: Sigatoka, also known as leaf spot, is caused by the fungus Mycospharella musicola. It is most commonly found in areas of poorly draining soil and areas of heavy dew. The initial stages show small, pale spots on the leaves that gradually enlarge to about a half inch (1 cm.) in size and become purple/black with gray centers. If the whole plant is infected, it looks as if it has been burned. Orchard grade mineral oil can be sprayed on the banana every three weeks for a total of 12 applications to control Sigatoka. Commercial growers also use aerial spraying and systemic fungicide application to control the disease. Some banana cultivars also show some resistance to Sigatoka.
- Black leaf streak: M. fifiensis causes Black Sigatoka, or Black Leaf Streak, and is much more virulent than Sigatoka. The cultivars that have some resistance to Sigatoka show none to Black Sigatoka. Fungicides have been used to try and control this disease on commercial banana farms through aerial spraying but this is costly and difficult due to scattered plantations.
- Banana wilt: Another fungus, Fusarium oxysporum, causes Panama disease or Banana Wilt (Fusarium wilt). It begins in the soil and travels to the root system, then enters the corm and passes into the pseudostem. Leaves begin to yellow, starting with the oldest leaves and moving in towards the center of the banana. This disease is lethal. It is transmitted through water, wind, moving soil, and farm equipment. On banana plantations, fields are flooded to control the fungus or by planting a covercrop.
- Moko disease: A bacterium, Pseudomona solanacearum, is the culprit resulting in Moko Disease. This disease is the chief disease of banana and plantain in the western hemisphere. It is transmitted via insects, machetes and other farm tools, plant detritus, soil, and root contact with ailing plants. The only sure defense is to plant resistant cultivars. Controlling infected bananas is time-consuming, expensive, and resistant.
- Black end and Cigar tip rot: Black end stems from another fungus causes anthracnose on the plants and infects the stalk and fruiting end. Young fruit shrivels and mummifies. Stored bananas afflicted with this disease rot. Cigar tip rot starts in the flower, moves to the tips of the fruit, and turns them black and fibrous.
- Bunchy top: Bunchy top is transmitted via aphids. Its introduction almost wiped out the commercial banana industry in Queensland. Eradication and control measures along with a quarantine area have managed to stamp out the disease but growers are eternally vigilant for any signs of bunchy top. Leaves are narrow and short with upturned margins. They become stiff and brittle with short leaf stalks that give the plant a rosette look. Young leaves yellow and become wavy with dark green “dot and dash” lines on the undersides.
These are just some of the pests and diseases that can afflict a banana plant. Vigilant attention to any changes in your banana will keep it healthy and fruitful for years to come.
Control Catepillars In The Garden Organically And Effectively
How do you care for an Abyssinian banana plant?
The Abyssinian banana plant needs consistently moist soil without being waterlogged. Don’t let the soil dry out completely before watering it again. The plant itself also likes moisture, so you can mist the leaves daily or use a humidifier near the plant if you grow it indoors.
How do you store Abyssinian red bananas?
Overwinter your Abyssinian red banana in a garage or storeroom if you do not have a greenhouse. Cut off all the leaves, leaving about 5 feet of stem, and clean the roots. Leave the stem to dry for a day and them wrap in breathable packing material and store upright in a cool, dark place.
How to propagate Abyssinian banana?
Take suitable measures to help your plant recover as soon as possible. One of the best ways to propagate your Abyssinian Banana is to take some black seeds from the inedible fruits. The plant doesn’t produce suckers, making propagation by division a challenging task. Don’t forget to soak the seeds in warm water before sowing.
Is Abyssinian banana a good plant?
Abyssinian Banana is a tropical plant that can add a jungly touch to any landscape. Under the ideal growing conditions, this plant grows fast and can become the focal point of your garden (if you take proper care of it). However, you must learn what your plant needs and how to fulfill its requirements to get the results you expect.