Hibiscus trees are popular ornamental plants grown for their large, colorful flowers. They add instant tropical flair to gardens and landscapes. But when your hibiscus fails to bloom or its leaves start falling off, you may worry the plant is dying or already dead. Don’t give up hope just yet! In many cases, hibiscus will lose their leaves and go dormant in winter, then recover when warm weather returns.
With some detective work, you can determine if your hibiscus is truly dead or just sleeping. Here are the top signs to check and steps to bring a struggling hibiscus back to life.
Signs Your Hibiscus is Dormant, Not Dead
When hibiscus lose their leaves in fall or winter, it’s natural to panic and assume the worst. But leaf loss doesn’t necessarily mean your plant kicked the bucket. Hibiscus are deciduous plants that drop their leaves annually before going dormant.
Here are a few signs your hibiscus is dormant, not dead:
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Green under the bark: Use a knife to gently peel back a small piece of bark. If the inner bark and cambium (layer under the bark) are green and moist, the plant is alive. Brown, dry wood indicates death.
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Flexible stems: Bend a small stem. If it’s pliable and bounces back, the plant is likely alive. Brittle, snapping stems suggest death.
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Leaf color: Yellow or red leaves indicate dormancy. However, completely brown, dried leaves still attached likely mean the plant is dead and unable to shed them.
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New growth after pruning Cut stems back to a few inches above soil level. If new growth emerges after a few weeks, your hibiscus is dormant. No new growth indicates death.
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Recovery in spring: Be patient! Dormant hibiscus can appear dead for months before reviving in spring. Wait until late spring or summer to see if buds and new leaves appear.
Signs Your Hibiscus is Dead
While dormancy can mimic death, sometimes hibiscus plants do kick the bucket. Here are some sure signs your plant has crossed over that great garden in the sky:
- Leaves are brown, shriveled and brittle throughout the plant, not just at the ends of branches.
- Entire branches are brittle and snap when bent.
- Inner bark is dry and brown.
- No new growth emerges after pruning back branches.
- Plant fails to revive by late spring.
- Roots are black, mushy or hollow rather than firm, flexible and white inside. Dig up the plant to check roots.
If several of these symptoms are present, it’s likely time to replace your hibiscus. But don’t throw it out right away! Try the revival tips below first.
How to Revive a Dying Hibiscus
Catching a struggling hibiscus early and taking quick action can sometimes nurse it back to health. Here are some tips to revive a dying hibiscus:
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Rule out overwatering: Check soil moisture and allow the plant to dry out for several weeks if the soil feels soggy. Excess water promotes deadly root rot.
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Increase sunlight: Place plant in a south-facing window where it receives at least 5 hours of direct sun daily. Lack of adequate sunlight makes hibiscus decline.
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Prune back dead wood: Remove all dead or dying stems and branches. This directs the plant’s energy toward new growth instead of sustaining dead tissue.
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Fertilize lightly: Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/4 strength every 2-4 weeks in spring and summer. Don’t fertilize in fall or winter.
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Mist leaves: Low humidity indoors pulls moisture from hibiscus leaves. Misting helps replenish that moisture until humidity rises outdoors in spring.
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Check for pests: Inspect closely for signs of infestation like webs, sticky residue or bugs on stems and undersides of leaves. Treat any pests you find promptly.
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Be patient: It can take weeks or months to know if revival efforts are working. Hold off on uprooting the hibiscus until you’ve given it sufficient time to rebound.
Key Differences Between Hardy and Tropical Hibiscus Species
There are hundreds of hibiscus species, but most garden types fall into either tropical or hardy categories. Knowing which type you have will help determine if leaf drop and dieback are normal.
Here are some key differences between tropical and hardy hibiscus:
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Cold tolerance: Tropical hibiscus thrive only in frost-free climates. Hardy hibiscus survive cold winters in zones 4-9. When hardy types lose leaves from cold, it’s dormancy. For tropicals, leaf loss indicates cold damage or death.
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Flowers: Tropicals have bigger flowers, sometimes dinner plate-sized. Hardy hibiscus have smaller 4-6 inch blooms.
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Leaves: Tropical hibiscus have shiny, smooth, dark green leaves. Hardy types have leaves with a dull, matte texture and jagged or lobed edges.
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Growth: Tropical hibiscus grow quickly as shrubs or small trees. Hardy hibiscus grow more slowly as herbaceous perennials reaching 6 feet tall and wide.
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Lifespan: Tropical hibiscus are annuals or short-lived perennials treated as annuals in cold climates. Hardy hibiscus are long-lived perennials, persisting for years.
Caring for Hibiscus in Winter
The right winter care and storage ensures your hibiscus survives cold months intact. Follow these winter care tips:
For Tropical Hibiscus
- Before frost, prune lanky shoots to shape the plant.
- Move the plant indoors before temperatures drop below 50°F.
- Place in a sunny south-facing window. supplemental lighting.
- Water only when the soil dries out to the touch.
- Mist leaves to boost humidity around the plant.
- Hold off fertilizing until spring.
- Discard the plant after spring or once it declines severely. Buy a new one next year.
For Hardy Hibiscus
- Prune overly long or diseased canes in late fall.
- Leave the plant in the ground over winter.
- Mulch around the base to insulate roots from cold and prevent frost heave.
- Cut hibiscus back to 6-12 inches above the ground after it goes dormant.
- Resume fertilizing when new growth begins in spring.
- Hold off pruning until late spring so you don’t remove new buds.
Be Patient and Watch for Spring Growth
It’s disheartening when a prized hibiscus plant starts looking sickly and bare. But don’t lose hope! With proper care, most cases of leaf drop and dieback are just seasonal dormancy, not death.
Be patient, cure any cultural problems and wait for warmer weather to work its magic. Keep a close eye out for signs of new life sprouting from the roots or branches. With luck, your hibiscus will reward you with vigorous new growth and dazzling blooms when spring finally arrives.
Checking for Live Wood
First check your plants for dead stems and branches. The test is simple enough. Working from the tip of each plant stem down toward the base, use a strong fingernail or a small knife to make a small scratch test (1/4-1/2 inch long). Scrape away a tiny bit of the brown outer bark of the stem that you are not sure about and look at the color underneath. A live branch will be bright green underneath the bark. If the branch is brown or light tan, it is dead. Some dead stems may be rotten, soft and squishy to the touch. Theres no need to do a scratch test on stems that are soft and squishy – they are clearly rotting and dead. Just keep working your way down the stem, doing scratch tests, until you find the point where scratching away the bark reveals bright, healthy, green plant tissue underneath. Plant tissue that is dull green with brown mixed in is not likely to live, so keep moving your way down the branch until you find a bright green patch. Now that we know where the live wood begins, its time to remove the dead wood.
Growth Enhancer and Fertilizer
Growth Enhancer can work wonders for cold-damaged plants! If you havent tried it yet, this is the time to try it. It is the first line of defense for any sick, damaged, or stressed plant, and if there is anything left to save in your plant, Growth Enhancer will save it. Dont forget to keep using fertilizer too. Even if the top part of the plant is not growing, the roots need to keep growing underground, and the more vigorous root growth is, the more hormones your plant will churn out, and eventually the more top growth you will see. So continue to use both Growth Enhancer and fertilizer all through the winter months. Or if you prefer, you can simply use Houseplant Formula. It has both fertilizer and Growth Enhancer, along with many other nutrients, in the optimum doses for sick or stressed plants.
5 SECRETS to SAVE or REVIVE a dying Hibiscus plant EASILY
FAQ
How do you bring a hibiscus tree back to life?
Because hibiscus bloom on new growth, you’ll want to encourage the plant to put out new stems and we can do that by cutting back some old ones. Don’t cut more than 50% of the foliage off and if your tree defoliated completely over the winter, don’t prune it until you see new ones forming.
Will a dead hibiscus come back?
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Hardy Hibiscus:These hibiscus species (like Hibiscus coccineus and Hibiscus moscheutos) are perennials, meaning they die back to the ground each winter and send up new growth in spring.
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Tropical Hibiscus:Tropical hibiscus, on the other hand, are more sensitive to cold and may not survive a hard freeze.
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Signs of Life:Even if your hibiscus looks dead, there might still be life growing at the base or in the roots.
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Checking for Green Growth:You can check for green growth by scraping the branch down towards the roots with a knife or your thumbnail, looking for tiny leaves, or cutting back at the healthy plant.
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Patience is Key:Hardy hibiscus can be slow to emerge in spring, so be patient and wait until later in the season.
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Pruning:If you are unsure if the plant will come back, you can prune the dead parts away, and new growth will sprout in spring.
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Care Tips:Fertilize, watch for pests, provide mulch and blankets during frost, and look for tiny leaves and scrape to find healthy plants.
What does a dormant hibiscus look like?
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Leaf Drop:As the weather cools and the plant enters dormancy, you’ll notice the leaves losing their vibrant color and eventually dropping off.
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No New Growth:New growth will cease, and the plant will appear to be in a state of rest.
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Hardy Hibiscus:Perennial hardy hibiscus varieties (like Hibiscus coccineus and Hibiscus moscheutos) will die back to the ground each winter and send up new growth in spring.
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Tropical Hibiscus:If you have a tropical hibiscus (like Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), you may need to bring it indoors before the first frost and prune it to prepare for the winter.
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Potted Hibiscus:If your hibiscus is potted, you can move the whole pot inside after you cut it back.
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Soil:If your plant has been growing in the ground, you’ll want to dig it up, then pot it in a container, using potting mix made for container plants.
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Dormant Hibiscus Care:Hibiscus plants are not picky when it comes to indoor storage, but it’s best to find a place that will be out of the way and warmer than 50 degrees F (10 C).
Why does my hibiscus have no leaves?
Does water pool up around the plant when you water it? Hibiscus leaf drop can be a symptom of too much or too little water, as well as inadequate drainage.Jan 19, 2023