Aeoniums are fleshy, succulent plants native to Madeira, the Canary Islands and North Africa. Members of the Crassulaceae family, they have rosettes of glossy, waxy leaves and range in height from a few centimetres to up to a metre. In late winter or spring they may produce clusters of tiny flowers but they are mostly grown for their distinctive, unusual shapes and foliage that comes in shades of green or purple-black or variegated in shades of white, yellow and red.
Aeoniums make excellent, low maintenance house plants that need very little care. They thrive on neglect – allowing the soil to dry out in between watering will make the colours more vibrant and the plant stronger. They look great grown with other succulents or cacti that thrive in similar growing conditions. They can also be grown outdoors in summer, in a pot with summer bedding plants or in a sunny, well-drained border.
The main growing season for aeoniums is spring and autumn, when the temperature and light levels are perfect for their growth. Aeoniums often go dormant in hot periods of the summer – you may notice the rosettes becoming tighter, and the outer leaves drying and dropping off. This perfectly normal. They need less water at this time as they can live off the water and nutrients stored in the leaves and stems.
Aeoniums are monocarpic, which means they die after flowering. However, on branching varieties, only the rosette that produced the flower will die, leaving the rest of the plant to live on. It is a good idea to take cuttings of your aeoniums so that you always have new plants.
Aeoniums are a gorgeous type of succulent that can add striking colors and unique textures to both outdoor and indoor spaces. With their rosette-shaped foliage and wide array of hues these plants make for great container plants on patios windowsills, and beyond.
While aeoniums are relatively low maintenance compared to other houseplants, they do have some specific care requirements you need to know in order to help them thrive. Use this comprehensive aeonium plant care guide to learn key tips and tricks for growing healthy, vibrant aeonium plants.
Providing the Right Light Conditions
When it comes to aeonium care, proper light is absolutely essential. These succulents prefer full sun to partial shade. I recommend providing them with at least 4-6 hours of very bright, direct light every day. An unobstructed south or west-facing window is ideal.
If you notice your aeonium’s leaves turning lighter in color, it’s likely a sign it’s not getting enough sun On the flip side, leaves that appear sunburnt or brownish may indicate too much harsh light. Finding the right balance takes some trial and error. During the summer, I suggest keeping aeoniums out of direct midday sun to prevent scorching
You can also supplement natural light with grow lights. LED full spectrum bulbs work great. Position the lights 12-15 inches above your aeonium and run them for 12-16 hours daily. Rotate the plant frequently so all sides get evenly illuminated.
Watering Your Aeonium Properly
Another essential aspect of aeonium care is perfecting your watering technique. These succulents prefer a thorough soak when the soil dries out, rather than frequent misting. Only water when the top 50-75% of the soil becomes completely dry The timing will vary based on factors like sunlight, temperature, humidity, container size, and soil mix
I recommend watering outdoor aeoniums every 10-14 days in warm weather when they’re actively growing. Indoor plants may need drinks every 3-4 weeks. Cut back on watering in the winter when growth slows. Check soil moisture with your finger before watering. If in doubt, wait an extra few days. Too much moisture can easily rot the roots.
Always pour water directly into the soil around the base of the plant. Avoid getting the leaves wet to prevent rot. Make sure your container has drainage holes and that excess water can easily escape.
Choosing the Best Potting Mix
To grow healthy aeoniums, the soil is also imperative. Aim for a fast-draining cactus/succulent mix amended with extra perlite or pumice. I suggest doing equal parts potting soil, perlite, and horticultural sand or pumice.
You can certainly buy premixed cactus soils, but many are too gritty and retain too little moisture for aeoniums. Mixing your own gives you greater control over getting the drainage and moisture retention just right.
Re-pot in fresh soil every 2-3 years as needed. Check for compacted, soggy soil annually and replace if present. Use containers with drainage holes and go no more than 1 size up at a time.
Caring for Aeoniums Indoors
Growing aeoniums as houseplants is totally doable with the right techniques:
- Place in an east, west, or lightly shaded south window
- Use sheer curtains to filter intense midday sun
- Water only when the top 50% of soil is dry
- Mist leaves occasionally to boost humidity
- Keep away from hot and cold drafts
- Maintain indoor temperatures above 50°F
- Transition to brighter light/less water in winter
- Rotate the pot every week or two for even growth
Providing the conditions aeoniums prefer indoors encourages healthy, compact growth without legginess. Pay close attention to your plant and adjust care as needed based on its reactions.
Fertilizing for Added Growth
During the active growing season from spring through summer, you can fertilize aeoniums to promote new growth and vibrant foliage colors. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. Fertilize monthly.
I don’t recommend fertilizing aeoniums in the fall or winter when they enter dormancy. It’s best to hold off on feeding until temperatures warm up again in spring. Then resume the monthly fertilizer routine.
If your plant seems to stop growing or loses color intensity, leaching the soil of mineral buildup and switching to new soil may help get it thriving again.
Common Aeonium Varieties
With over 35 species, there are many different aeonium varieties you can add to your garden:
- Aeonium arboreum – large green rosettes on branching stems
- Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ – deep burgundy rosettes, 3-4 feet tall
- Aeonium ‘Sunburst’ – yellow and green variegated leaves
- Aeonium haworthii ‘Kiwi’ – small, tricolored leaves
- Aeonium decorum – green rosettes blushed with red
- Aeonium ‘Garnet’ – burgundy leaves with green centers
- Aeonium sedifolium – lime green leaves with reddish edges
The options allow you to add intrigue to your succulent collection. Focus on finding varieties suitable for your climate and growing conditions.
Troubleshooting Common Aeonium Problems
Growing healthy aeoniums does come with a few potential issues to watch out for:
- Leggy growth – insufficient sunlight, grow lights needed
- Leaf drop – normal but can indicate overwatering/underwatering
- Leaf scorch – too much direct sun, move to partial shade
- Wilting – underwatered, increase watering frequency
- Rotting – overwatered, allow soil to fully dry before watering
- Pests – mealybugs, aphids, scale, treat with insecticidal soap
Observe your plants closely to catch problems early. Properly addressing lighting, water, and pest issues promptly prevents major setbacks.
Propagating Aeoniums from Cuttings
Propagating from stem cuttings is quite easy with aeoniums. Choose a stem with a rosette and trim below it. Allow to callous for 2-3 days then plant in soil. Keep moist until it roots. The original stem may produce offshoots if left intact.
You can also remove and replant offsets from the mother plant’s base. Water sparingly until the new roots establish. Then you can begin normal watering. Propagating provides an easy way to get multiples of your favorite varieties for free!
Caring for Your Aeoniums
With the right location, soil, watering routine, and occasional fertilizing, it’s simple to keep your aeonium plants looking beautiful. Get to know your plant’s needs and quirks through close observation. A little extra attention to lighting, humidity, and temperatures when growing indoors can make all the difference.
Pay attention to signs of stress and tweak your care accordingly. With a bit of practice, you’ll discover how to keep your aeoniums thriving for years to come! Their unique shapes, colors, and textures make them a wonderful addition to both indoor and outdoor spaces when properly cared for.
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How to plant an aeonium
Good drainage is key when planting an aeonium – they suffer in cold, wet compost, which will rot the stem and roots.
A terracotta pot is ideal as it’s porous and allows the soil to dry out between waterings. Ensure the pot has a drainage hole – it’s important that any excess water can drain away. Add a 2-3cm layer of gravel or grit or crocks at the bottom of the pot for drainage, too. Choose a pot that’s the same size as the rootball. A free-draining compost is important, so use a 60:40 mix of peat-free, multi-purpose compost (or a John Innes number 2) and perlite, horticultural grit or sand. You could top the compost with a 1cm layer of horticultural grit, which will help with drainage and avoid the stem rotting.
When planting a flat-topped aeonium such as Aeonium tabuliforme, tilt the pot at an angle so rainwater can drain off it easily outdoors.
If planting an aeonium in the ground, ensure your soil is free draining – sandy soil or a gravel garden is ideal.
In the wild, aeoniums live in hot, dry areas that get occasional heavy downpours. If you’re growing aeoniums indoors, try to replicate this by allowing the soil to dry out completely, then watering thoroughly, letting any excess water drain away. This is a better method than watering little and often. Aeoniums are actively growing in autumn and spring, so reduce watering in summer and winter.
If you’re keeping your aeoniums outside, whether in the garden or in a pot, they should get all the water they need from rainfall.
You can feed your aeonium with a half strength plant food once a month from winter to late spring.
Aeoniums cannot cope with frost but they can cope with low winter temperatures as long as their compost is not wet – try not to let them go lower than 5°C.
Growing aeoniums: problem solving
- Over watering is the most common cause of aeonium problems. Aeoniums come from hot, dry regions and look best when this is replicated in your house or garden.
- Washed out, pale foliage could be a result of over watering. Cut back on watering, and let the compost dry out completely before watering again. You may also find that if you’re growing your aeonium as a house plant, putting it outdoors in summer will restore its vibrant colour.
- A rosette that is closed up, with dry leaves around the edge that are dropping off, is normal in summer. Aeoniums go dormant in hot periods.
- A leggy, stretched plant is a sign that it is not getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot.
- Hairy stems are actually aerial roots. They sometimes appear naturally and are nothing to worry about. However they can be a sign that the conditions are not right for your plant. It could be that the roots below the soil are not getting enough water. Watering thoroughly, then leaving the compost to dry out should avoid this – watering little and often is not the answer, as the water needs to penetrate deep into the compost. Conversely, they could be a sign that the compost isn’t free draining enough – this might be the cause if no perlite, sand or grit was added to the compost when planting. Aerial roots can also be a sign that your plant is not getting enough light, or that it is rootbound and needs repotting.
- A mushy brown stem is rot, caused by too much water, especially in the colder months.
- If your plant is dying back after flowering, this is normal – aeoniums are monocarpic, which means they die once they have flowered. However on branching varieties, only the rosette that produced the flower will die back. Cut off the flower head and the rosette and the rest of the plant will carry on growing.
- You may spot mealybugs on the foliage – white, fluffy blobs around 5mm across. Wipe them off with a cotton pad soaked in organic insecticide.
- Vine weevil can be a problem for plants grown in pots outdoors. These eat the roots unseen and the first sign you may see is a plant that is inexplicably dying. Look out for the adults on the foliage and white grubs in the compost. Remove promptly if you see any. Treat with an organic nematode drench in late August or September.
BEST TIPS: HOW TO CARE FOR AEONIUM SUCCULENT PLANTS
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