Knowing your climate zone will help you decide the best time to sow the vegetables, herbs and flowers you want to grow, and which varieties should perform well in your garden. Growing plants that are suited to your climate zone will usually give you the best results in your garden.
You might not recognise the name Porcellio scaber, but youll definitely know the insect it refers to. Introduced to Australia from Europe along with its close cousin Armadillidium vulgare, these common bugs have since taken on the more recognisable names of slaters, butchy boys, pill bugs, wood lice, and many more.
And while they may provoke disgust or even fear when you unexpectedly uncover them, they play a vital role in your garden. You definitely want them there – but you also dont want their numbers to get out of hand.
The vibrant colors and delicate petals of African daisies make them a popular choice for gardens and outdoor spaces. However, these lovely blooms can fall prey to pests like slaters that can rapidly damage your plants if not controlled. Slaters, also known as pillbugs or woodlice, are small crustaceans that feed on decaying plant matter When their populations grow unchecked, they swarm seedlings and flowers, destroying them overnight.
To protect your prized African daisies from slaters it’s essential to accurately identify them implement preventative measures, and use appropriate treatment methods. This comprehensive guide covers all the key steps for effective slater control in African daisies.
Identifying Slaters
Correctly identifying pests is the first step towards successful management. Slaters are tiny oval creatures with segmented, gray to brown bodies and multiple sets of legs. When threatened, they can roll up into a tight ball. As nocturnal detritivores attracted to moisture, slaters thrive in mulch and compost around plants.
Prevention Strategies
Stopping slaters before they become a problem is ideal. Here are some simple preventive measures:
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Remove decaying plant debris – Routinely clear fallen leaves and other rotting matter that attract slaters.
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Improve drainage – Ensure beds drain well to prevent moisture buildup slaters seek.
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Use inorganic mulch – Gravel or stone mulches discourage slaters better than organic mulches.
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Prune for airflow – Regular pruning opens up airflow, lowering humidity slaters prefer.
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Allow predators – Avoid barriers that exclude natural slater predators like lizards or spiders.
Natural Remedies
If slaters infest your daisies, try these organic treatments first before turning to harsh chemicals:
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Diatomaceous earth – Dust food-grade diatomaceous earth around plants. The sharp texture deters slaters. Reapply after rain.
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Citrus peels – Orange and lemon peels release oils that naturally repel slaters. Place peels around plants.
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Beer traps – Slaters are drawn to beer. Bury cups flush with soil and they will crawl in but cannot escape.
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Neem oil – Mix neem oil with water and spray leaves. The oil coats slaters and kills them.
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Beneficial nematodes – Apply nematodes that seek out and infect slaters with bacteria, eventually killing them.
Chemical Controls
For severe infestations unresponsive to natural remedies, limited chemical control may be warranted:
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Insecticidal soap – Potassium salts of fatty acids in these soaps penetrate and kill soft-bodied insects like slaters.
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Pyrethrin insecticides – Derived from chrysanthemums, pyrethrins are effective yet decompose quickly to limit environmental impact.
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Miticide sprays – Products containing abamectin or bifenazate control mites but also work on slaters.
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Professional pest control – If all else fails, consult an exterminator who uses integrated pest management approaches.
Physical Controls
Simple physical controls can also help reduce slaters:
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Sticky traps – Yellow, blue, or white sticky traps lure and capture slaters for disposal.
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Copper tape – Strips of conductive copper tape repel slaters from crossing over to plants.
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Handpicking – Collect slaters after watering when they gather on soil surface using a flashlight at night. Drop them into soapy water.
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Barriers – Surround plants with abrasive diatomaceous earth, crushed eggshells, or coffee grounds slaters avoid crossing.
Encouraging Natural Predators
Boost native predatory species to naturally suppress slaters:
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Install birdbaths and perches to attract insect-eating birds who will feast on slaters.
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Avoid pesticides so spider populations can thrive and consume slaters.
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Introduce beneficial beetles like ground beetles that prey on slaters.
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Interplant with pollen/nectar-rich flowers that lure predatory wasps that eat slaters.
Maintaining Plant Health
Vigorous, healthy daisies better withstand slater damage. Ensure proper:
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Soil nutrition with balanced organic fertilizer.
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Sunlight with 6+ hours of direct sun daily.
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Watering about 1-2 inches weekly depending on climate.
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Air circulation and light penetration via pruning.
Monitoring for Early Detection
Check plants routinely, especially seedlings, for signs of slaters:
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Clipped off leaves and flowers overnight. Look for slater damage just above soil level.
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Presence of slaters on soil surface or under mulch, pots, boards near plants. Inspect with a flashlight after moistening soil.
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Holes in emerging leaves and petals or stalks chewed through at base.
Integrated Pest Management
For effective long term control, utilize IPM incorporating:
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Prevention through garden sanitation and habitat modification.
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Mechanical controls like traps, barriers, and hand removal.
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Biological controls with beneficial insects and boosting predators.
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Responsible use of least toxic pesticides as a last resort.
By properly identifying slaters, excluding them through prevention, using organic remedies, and monitoring daisies routinely, you can successfully protect your African daisies from destruction by slaters. Consistent, integrated pest management practices that promote healthy plants alongside biological controls offer an environmentally sustainable solution for long term slater control.
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How to Recognise Slaters
Slaters are instantly recognisable from their segmented, grey-brown bodies of between 6mm and 12mm in length. Their seven pairs of legs are put to great use scurrying for cover when disturbed, and if that doesnt escape the threat, theyll often curl up into a tight ball for protection. Its this defensive reflex that provides yet another common name, the roley poley.
Biologically speaking, all species of slaters are among the few land-based crustaceans, belonging to the same wider family as prawns and crabs. And although their watery origins are ancient history, they still need damp conditions to survive.
This tends to stop them moving around during daylight hours, preferring to shelter in dark, moist spots until the cooler night arrives. Their favourite hiding places include behind the bark of rotting wood, underneath plant pots, within organic mulches, and under the surface of compost heaps.
You may occasionally find slaters entering your home, but this is usually just through a spirit of exploration. Most homes are too dry and bright to make a good slater habitat, and so moving the visitors outdoors again is usually the last youll see of them.
How to Use Climate Zones
First, find your climate zone using the map or descriptions below. Next, refer to our sowing chart, which provides approximate sowing times for our most popular seeds for each climate zone.
While knowing your climate zone is helpful when planning your garden, there are many other factors that may affect how your plants grow, including unseasonal weather conditions, the specific microclimate of your garden and how you care for your plants. You know your garden better than us, so if a different climate zone seems to ‘fit’ your garden better, go ahead and use it as a guide.
Our climate zones cover huge areas of Australia, so we recommend gardeners also consider their local conditions when planning what and when to plant. For example, gardeners in alpine areas have shorter growing seasons than gardeners in cool coastal areas, even though both alpine and coastal areas are included in our ‘Cool Temperate’ climate zone. We recommend gardeners in cool regions look at the ‘days to maturity’ information provided for each variety and choose those that will mature in a short (6-12 week) growing season.
- Includes: Darwin, Cairns, Townsville, Exmouth
- High humidity summers with most rainfall in summer and dry, warm winters. Includes northern Australia from Exmouth (WA) across to south of Townsville (Qld).
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Alice Springs, Mildura, Albury-Wodonga, Shepparton, Wagga Wagga, Dubbo
- Hot dry summers, winters can be warm or cool depending on the region. Includes a large area of central Australia from the WA coast to Charleville (Qld), Tamworth (NSW) and Albury-Wodonga (NSW/Vic).
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Brisbane, Bundaberg, Coffs Harbour, Gold Coast, Hervey Bay, Mackay, Rockhampton, Sunshine Coast
- Warm humid summers with high summer rainfall and mild winters. Includes coastal Queensland and northern NSW from north of Mackay to just south of Coffs Harbour.
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Sydney, Perth, Adelaide, Newcastle, Toowoomba, Central Coast NSW, Wollongong, Bunbury
- Moderate humidity and reliable rainfall, with four distinct seasons. Includes coastal areas from north of Port Macquarie to south of Woollongong in NSW, coastal SA and the southeastern coast of WA.
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Melbourne, Canberra, Hobart, Launceston, Ballarat, Bendigo, Geelong, Mt Gambier
- Low humidity with most rainfall in winter; hot dry summers and cold winters. Some regions will experience frosts and snow. Includes coastal areas of south-eastern Australia and alpine areas of Victoria, NSW and Tasmania.
- Set as my climate My climate
What if I can’t find my climate zone? If you can’t locate your zone from looking at the map or the descriptions on this page, we suggest that you think of an area that has a climate that’s similar to yours and use the zone for that area as a guide.
What if I live on the border of two zones? If you live near the border between two zones we suggest you read the descriptions for both zones and decide which best describes the climate where you live. Depending on the microclimate in your garden, you may be able to grow a wider range of plants over a longer season than others in your zone. Lucky you!
What is a microclimate? A microclimate is a small area where the temperature or humidity differs to the climate of the surrounding area. For example, if you live in a climate zone where frosts are common but your garden is protected by buildings or large trees, your garden may be frost-free. Similarly, if you live in a warm temperate zone but your garden is at a high altitude your microclimate may have more in common with the cool temperate zone, so use this as a guide when deciding which zone is relevant to you.
Can I grow varieties not listed for my climate zone? While our climate zones and sowing chart will help you decide what is suitable to plant in your garden, they provide general guidance only. We recommend you start by sowing seed that’s recommended for your climate zone; once you get a few successes under your belt you can experiment with varieties in neighbouring zones and see how you go – gardening is all about experimenting after all!
You might not recognise the name Porcellio scaber, but youll definitely know the insect it refers to. Introduced to Australia from Europe along with its close cousin Armadillidium vulgare, these common bugs have since taken on the more recognisable names of slaters, butchy boys, pill bugs, wood lice, and many more.
And while they may provoke disgust or even fear when you unexpectedly uncover them, they play a vital role in your garden. You definitely want them there – but you also dont want their numbers to get out of hand.
How to Deadhead African Daisies – QG Day 87
FAQ
What is the best killer for Slaters?
How do you get rid of lice on flowers?
How to stop woodlice from eating plants?
How do you get rid of African daisies?
African daisies are a very pest tolerant plant but if they are attacked, I have found the best way is to remove damaged leaves or flowers. Trimming away leaves that carry aphids or spidermite is the best way to remove these pests. You can also spray the plant with neem oil as it is a natural pest killer that is gentle on your plant. 4. Poor soil
Why do African daisies die so fast?
The top reason why African daisies can die quickly is due to a lack of water. African daisies are drought hardy but this is only true once they are established. If a new plant lacks water it can quickly wilt and die. A long summer without added water can also cause an African daisy to die.
Are African daisies drought hardy?
African daisies are drought hardy but this is only true once they are established. If a new plant lacks water it can quickly wilt and die. A long summer without added water can also cause an African daisy to die. I used to live in an incredibly dry area of Australia which meant I had to water my African daisies every 3 days in summer.
How often should you water African daisies?
Water your African daisies once per week. If you’re watering by hand, give your plants 10 cups of water at each watering session (2.4 liters). If you are using a soaker hose, run the hose for 30 minutes every time you water. African daisies are fairly drought tolerant, but extreme heat can take a toll on your flowers.