Aeoniums are fleshy, succulent plants native to Madeira, the Canary Islands and North Africa. Members of the Crassulaceae family, they have rosettes of glossy, waxy leaves and range in height from a few centimetres to up to a metre. In late winter or spring they may produce clusters of tiny flowers but they are mostly grown for their distinctive, unusual shapes and foliage that comes in shades of green or purple-black or variegated in shades of white, yellow and red.
Aeoniums make excellent, low maintenance house plants that need very little care. They thrive on neglect – allowing the soil to dry out in between watering will make the colours more vibrant and the plant stronger. They look great grown with other succulents or cacti that thrive in similar growing conditions. They can also be grown outdoors in summer, in a pot with summer bedding plants or in a sunny, well-drained border.
The main growing season for aeoniums is spring and autumn, when the temperature and light levels are perfect for their growth. Aeoniums often go dormant in hot periods of the summer – you may notice the rosettes becoming tighter, and the outer leaves drying and dropping off. This perfectly normal. They need less water at this time as they can live off the water and nutrients stored in the leaves and stems.
Aeoniums are monocarpic, which means they die after flowering. However, on branching varieties, only the rosette that produced the flower will die, leaving the rest of the plant to live on. It is a good idea to take cuttings of your aeoniums so that you always have new plants.
Mastering Aeonium Seed Germination A Complete Guide
Aeoniums are highly coveted succulents, prized for their gorgeous rosettes of colorful foliage. While often propagated by cuttings, these plants can also be grown from seed. Starting aeoniums from seed allows you to gain new varieties and genetic diversity. However, proper harvesting, storage, and sowing techniques are needed for success.
In this comprehensive guide, I’ll share expert tips to master aeonium seed propagation. Follow these best practices when collecting, processing, and germinating aeonium seeds for the highest chances of success.
Harvesting Aeonium Seeds
The first step is gathering viable mature aeonium seeds
-
Allow aeonium flower stalks to fade and dry out completely on the plant after blooming finishes.
-
Monitor the pods closely as they begin to split open when seeds are ready for harvest.
-
Collect the small black seeds by gently shaking the pods or removing them individually with tweezers.
-
Pick seeds from multiple flowers on different plants for genetic diversity. Discard any that appear withered or immature.
-
Harvest seeds on a dry day to keep them as dry as possible. Wet seeds are prone to mold and rot.
Proper seed harvest timing and care is key to gathering healthy, viable seeds that will grow well. Never pick seeds prematurely.
Post-Harvest Seed Processing
After collecting aeonium seeds, follow these steps to prepare them for storage and sowing:
-
Spread seeds in a single layer on paper towels or trays to finish drying if needed.
-
Allow 2-3 days additional drying time before storage or sowing. Proper curing improves viability.
-
Gently rub any remaining flower chaff or debris off dried seeds to clean.
-
Check for signs of damage, mold, or larvae and discard any compromised seeds.
-
Store cleaned, cured seeds in air-tight containers in a cool, dark place until ready to sow.
Careful post-harvest processing helps maintain seed viability for successful propagation. Never sow seeds until fully dried and cured.
Aeonium Seed Storage Tips
For best future germination, properly store cleaned aeonium seeds using these guidelines:
-
Keep seeds in airtight containers such as glass jars or zip-close bags.
-
Add a desiccant like silica gel sachets to absorb any residual moisture and prevent mold growth.
-
Store containers in the refrigerator or freezer for optimum longevity at consistent cool temperatures.
-
Avoid humidity, moisture, and heat which degrade seeds quickly. The drier and cooler the better.
-
Even properly stored, aeonium seeds lose viability over time, so sow within 1-2 years for best results.
Following proper dry, cold storage protocols lets aeonium seeds remain propagation-ready for future planting seasons.
Preparing to Sow Aeonium Seeds
Once you’re ready to propagate, prepare for sowing success:
-
Start seeds 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area.
-
Use sterile seed starter trays or containers with drainage holes, filled with seed starting mix.
-
Moisten the soilless media evenly before sowing. It should be damp but not saturated.
-
Spread seeds evenly but thinly atop the soil. Take care not to plant too deep.
-
Apply a dilute fungicide solution to prevent fungal problems. Bacillus subtilis works well.
Investing some time in proper planning and setup will give your aeonium seeds the advantage right from the start.
Optimal Aeonium Seed Germination Conditions
Paying close attention to these optimal germination factors will facilitate success:
-
Maintain consistent temperatures between 70-75° F. Fluctuating temps hinder germination.
-
Place trays or pots inside a greenhouse or plastic tent to boost humidity to 60-70%.
-
Avoid light exposure until seeds sprout, as darkness signals seeds to germinate.
-
Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Allow the top layer to just dry between very light mistings.
Mimicking the warm, humid, sheltered conditions aeoniums need to sprout encourages maximum viable seed germination.
Caring for Aeonium Seedlings
Once those first seed leaves emerge, your job has just begun. Nurture your baby aeoniums with care:
-
Gradually expose sprouted seedlings to increasing amounts of light over 2-3 weeks.
-
Maintain warm temperatures and reduce watering frequency slightly but avoid dry soil.
-
Transplant sprouts into individual containers once the second set of leaves appears.
-
Harden off before moving outdoors. Shelter from intense sun, wind, and weather at first.
-
Pinch off any flower stalks during the first year so plants focus energy on establishment.
Attentive, proactive care in the early weeks and months will ensure your aeonium sprouts grow into thriving, long-lived plants.
Common Aeonium Seed Propagation Problems and Solutions
Don’t be discouraged if challenges arise. Troubleshoot issues with these tips:
-
No sprouting may indicate old, unviable seeds. Always sow fresh seeds promptly for best results.
-
Fungus issues mean too much moisture and humidity. Improve air circulation and allow media to partially dry.
-
Leggy, weak growth signals insufficient light. Gradually increase sunlight exposure.
-
Tip burning or crusty leaves arise from too much fertilizer. Flush soil to remove excess salts.
-
Underdeveloped sprouts not growing well likely need more warmth. Maintain 70°F+ temperatures consistently.
With attentive care and quick adjustments, you can get struggling seedlings back on track and flourishing.
The Rewards of Growing Aeoniums From Seed
While it takes some work, sowing your own aeonium seeds brings many rewards:
-
Unique new varieties and gene combinations from seeds that may not exist anywhere else. Each plant is one-of-a-kind.
-
The excitement of seeing those very first sprouts emerge against the odds. From tiny seeds come beautiful succulents!
-
The pride of nurturing your own plants from seeds you harvested all the way to maturity. The time investment pays off.
-
The cost savings versus buying new plants, allowing you to grow your collection inexpensively.
-
The chance to share and trade exciting aeoniums grown from your personal seed lines.
Don’t be intimidated by the process. Follow the guidance in this article and you’ll be reaping all the benefits of propagating aeoniums from seed in no time!
:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/KaraRileyAeoniums-13-1c0b63c195bf43a1a841c2cd7fe49b58.jpg)
Growing aeoniums: problem solving
- Over watering is the most common cause of aeonium problems. Aeoniums come from hot, dry regions and look best when this is replicated in your house or garden.
- Washed out, pale foliage could be a result of over watering. Cut back on watering, and let the compost dry out completely before watering again. You may also find that if you’re growing your aeonium as a house plant, putting it outdoors in summer will restore its vibrant colour.
- A rosette that is closed up, with dry leaves around the edge that are dropping off, is normal in summer. Aeoniums go dormant in hot periods.
- A leggy, stretched plant is a sign that it is not getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot.
- Hairy stems are actually aerial roots. They sometimes appear naturally and are nothing to worry about. However they can be a sign that the conditions are not right for your plant. It could be that the roots below the soil are not getting enough water. Watering thoroughly, then leaving the compost to dry out should avoid this – watering little and often is not the answer, as the water needs to penetrate deep into the compost. Conversely, they could be a sign that the compost isn’t free draining enough – this might be the cause if no perlite, sand or grit was added to the compost when planting. Aerial roots can also be a sign that your plant is not getting enough light, or that it is rootbound and needs repotting.
- A mushy brown stem is rot, caused by too much water, especially in the colder months.
- If your plant is dying back after flowering, this is normal – aeoniums are monocarpic, which means they die once they have flowered. However on branching varieties, only the rosette that produced the flower will die back. Cut off the flower head and the rosette and the rest of the plant will carry on growing.
- You may spot mealybugs on the foliage – white, fluffy blobs around 5mm across. Wipe them off with a cotton pad soaked in organic insecticide.
- Vine weevil can be a problem for plants grown in pots outdoors. These eat the roots unseen and the first sign you may see is a plant that is inexplicably dying. Look out for the adults on the foliage and white grubs in the compost. Remove promptly if you see any. Treat with an organic nematode drench in late August or September.
Growing aeoniums: jump links
Whether you’re growing them indoors or out, aeoniums thrive in bright, dry conditions. They store water in their thick, fleshy leaves and need very little water, which means they do best in very well drained soil or in a gravel garden. The foliage is tough enough to withstand windy conditions, making them good for coastal gardens. If you don’t have the right conditions in your garden, grow them in pots, either on their own or with drought-tolerant bedding plants, such as pelargoniums. If growing aeoniums indoors, give them a bright spot – they can take some direct sunshine.
HOW TO GERMINATE SUCCULENTS FROM SEEDS
FAQ
How to grow Aeonium from seed?
What is the best feed for aeoniums?
Do aeoniums like sun or shade?