Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia (members of the plant family Araceae) are popular tropical foliage plants. In order to develop new ornamental Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia cultivars, plant breeders must be able to overcome breeding barriers. Ability to control flowering, effect successful pollination and secure seed production are essential for hybridization of these crops.
Commonly known as dumb cane, the genus Dieffenbachia includes about 30 species native to the tropical forests of Central and South America. The chromosome number of most Dieffenbachia species is 2n = 34. Although some Dieffenbachia plants may cross-pollinate in the wild, directed interspecific hybridization by breeders is the primary means of generating new commercial cultivars.
Academic and private commercial breeding programs that develop Dieffenbachia have focused on novel leaf variegation patterns and on increased branching to give the plant a full appearance. Almost 100 cultivars have been introduced over the years, but only about 20 Dieffenbachia cultivars remain consistently popular commercially. Nine hybrids have been released through the University of Florida MREC-Apopka Plant Breeding Program including Triumph, Victory, Tropic Star, Starry Nights, Star White, Star Bright, Sparkles, Tropic Honey, and Sterling.
When breeding for novel leaf patterns, inheritance of variegation is dominant over inheritance of non-variegation. A single dominant allele interacts with modifier genes to determine variegation patterns within Dieffenbachia. Multiple genes control basal shoot formation. For more information, the reader is referred to Henny 1988, Henny and Chen 2003, and Henny, et al 2004.
Commonly called Chinese evergreen, Aglaonema is one of the most widely used foliage plants due to its ability to tolerate low light and low humidity, and its resistance to diseases and pests. This crop has been commercially cultivated in Florida since the 1930s. The genus Aglaonema includes 21 species native to Southeast Asia. In the wild, Aglaonema species are open-pollinated. The base number of chromosomes is 2n = 6, with subsequent polyploidy in many cases.
Aglaonema hybrids for ornamental foliage production are almost exclusively developed via interspecific hybridization within traditional breeding programs. The species A. nitidum, A. commutatum, A. costatum, and A. rotundum are commonly used in the interspecific hybridization work. Current breeding activities focus on generating novel foliage variegation patterns, new petiole colors, increased branching, and better chilling resistance.
Popular hybrids from the breeding program at the University of Floridas MREC in Apopka include Aglaonema Silver Bay, which has a medium green leaf blade overlaid with a gray-green center; Emerald Bay, which has a white and green mottled stem; and Diamond Bay displaying a bold central gray stripe against a dark green leaf blade. For more information, the reader is referred to Henny and Chen 2008; and Henny et al. 2003.
As an avid indoor gardener, I’m always seeking out unique and visually striking plants to liven up my living spaces. The aglaonema has long been a favorite of mine, with its vibrantly patterned leaves in shades of green, red, pink, and cream Aglaonemas are commonly known as Chinese evergreens and they bring a lush, tropical feel wherever they’re placed
I used to stick to buying young aglaonema plants from nurseries and garden centers. But once I discovered how rewarding it can be to grow these beauties from seeds, I was hooked! However, successfully germinating, storing, and sowing aglaonema seeds requires some specialized knowledge.
In this article, I’ll share everything I’ve learned through research and firsthand experience about unlocking the secrets behind growing healthy aglaonemas from seeds. Read on to become an aglaonema seed starting expert yourself.
Aglaonemas can be propagated from seed, cuttings, or division. Starting with seeds is an affordable way to end up with lots of great new plants. The seeds form in berries on a spray, with 1 to 6 seeds per berry. Once the berries start to dry and split open, the seeds are mature and ready for harvest.
When starting aglaonema plants from seeds, timing is important. Fresh seeds have the highest chance of successful germination Stored seeds can also be used but may have lower germination rates the longer they are stored
Step-by-Step Guide to Germinating Aglaonema Seeds
Getting aglaonema seeds to sprout takes warm temperatures, high humidity, and constant moisture. Here are the steps I follow for maximum germination success:
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Harvest seeds when berries are dry and split. Or purchase seeds from a reputable seller.
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Soak seeds in room temperature water for 24 hours.
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Plant each seed 1⁄4 inch deep in sterile seed starting mix.
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Water thoroughly and cover trays with plastic to retain humidity.
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Place trays in a warm area (70-80°F) out of direct sun.
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Keep soil moist but not soggy. Germination occurs in 1-3 weeks.
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Remove plastic once sprouts emerge to prevent fungal issues.
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Transfer seedlings to pots once 2-3 leaves have formed.
With the proper care, germination rates can reach over 90% with fresh aglaonema seeds. Always start more seeds than you need since some won’t make it.
Storing Aglaonema Seeds for Later Use
For the best results, aglaonema seeds should be sown when fresh. But it is possible to save extra seeds for later. Here are some storage tips:
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Let seeds fully mature and dry on the plant before harvesting.
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Remove pulp and debris then dry seeds further in a single layer.
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Place dried seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
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For best viability, store at 40-50°F and 35-45% relative humidity.
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Avoid freezing or exceeding 90°F during storage.
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Expect 50-75% germination from seeds stored for 1 year.
With proper storage conditions, aglaonema seeds can retain moderate viability for up to 2 years. Always sow extra when germinating older seeds.
Sowing Aglaonema Seeds for Growth
Once my aglaonema seeds have sprouted, it’s time to help the seedlings flourish! Here are my tips for sowing germinated seeds:
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Choose a potting mix that retains moisture but drains well. I use a peat-based mix.
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Fill starter pots with mix, water thoroughly, and let excess drain.
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Make a shallow hole for each sprout, cover roots with mix, and gently firm.
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Keep freshly sown seedlings warm and humid until established.
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Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Don’t let seedlings wilt.
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Begin light fertilizer 2-3 weeks after sowing. Use half strength dilution.
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Transition to brighter light after a few true leaves form.
With attentive care while establishing, aglaonema seedlings will flourish into vibrant, patterns houseplants.
Troubleshooting Common Aglaonema Seed Issues
Growing aglaonemas from seeds has some challenges. Here are solutions to the problems I’ve faced:
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Seeds failing to sprout: Increase temperature, humidity, and soil moisture. Sow again with fresh seeds.
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Sprouts rotting: Let soil dry out slightly between waterings and reduce humidity.
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Leggy or weak seedlings: Give more light gradually once sprouted.
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Leaf spots or fungal issues: Reduce watering frequency and increase air circulation.
Don’t get discouraged! Even experienced growers have difficulties at first. Follow these tips and you’ll be on your way to aglaonema seed success.
Final Thoughts on Aglaonema Seed Propagation
Starting an aglaonema plant from a tiny seed and nurturing it to a stunning specimen with vibrant patterned leaves brings me so much joy and satisfaction. While it takes some trial and error, you can absolutely propagate these fantastic houseplants from seeds with the right techniques.
I hope these detailed steps for collecting, germinating, storing, sowing, and troubleshooting aglaonema seeds takes the mystery out of the process. Understanding the keys to success like temperature, humidity, and moisture will set you up to watch in wonder as your seeds transform into gorgeous, lush aglaonema plants.
What are you waiting for? Gather some seeds from an established aglaonema or order some, grab some seed starting trays, and let the magic begin!
Flowering, Pollination and Seed Production
Under natural conditions, Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia produce only 3 to 5 flowers per stem per year. Different species within each genus may not flower simultaneously. This potential barrier to breeding has been overcome by the use of gibberellic acid (GA3) sprays to stimulate flowering. Treatment consists of a single foliar spray of 250 to 1,000 ppm GA3. Flowers appear 90 to 120 days after treatment. Additionally, GA3 treatment increases the number of flowers produced per plant. This helps to ensure a sufficient supply of flowers for breeding purposes. With careful planning, different species of the same genus can be induced to flower simultaneously. (Henny, 2001).
Both Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia have unisexual flowers (Figure 3 and Figure 4). Aroid inflorescences consist of a spadix enclosed by a spathe. The spadix is a fleshy spike covered with many small, unisexual flowers. The unisexual flowers contain male (staminate) flowers on the upper half of the spadix and female (pistillate) flowers on the lower portion of the spadix, with a small area between that may be devoid of flowers.
To prevent inbreeding in their native habitat, both genera are dichogamous (male and female receptivity is not synchronous). The inflorescences of Dieffenbachia and Aglaonema exhibit protogyny (female receptivity occurs first). Female flowers on the spadix mature first and simultaneously. Then, approximately 2 days later, after the females on that spadix are no longer receptive; the male flowers of that spadix mature simultaneously and produce pollen. This discourages self-pollination.
Receptivity of female flowers coincides with the unfurling of the spathe (Figure 5 and Figure 6). Spathes from these two genera normally begin to unfurl at night and pollination can occur any time during the following day. Receptivity of Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia flowers lasts at least 24 hours as evidenced by pollen germination studies. Female flower surfaces that have become discolored and soft are no longer receptive. Seed has been obtained from flowers of both genera pollinated one full day after spathe unfurling, but the number of seeds is smaller.
To cross-pollinate Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia, it is necessary to obtain pollen from one inflorescence with ripe males and to manually transfer the pollen to another inflorescence that has receptive females (Figure 7). The pollen is not wind disseminated. Pollen transfer begins by using a small, soft brush to sweep pollen into a container. The same brush used to collect the pollen may be used for application of pollen to the female. First make the brush sticky by gently wiping it against the female stigmatic surfaces. Then dip the sticky brush into the pollen supply and lightly brush pollen grains onto the stigmatic surfaces of receptive flowers.
If pollen is in short supply, it can be stored in a container in a high-humidity environment in a refrigerator. Humidity affects pollen viability (Figure 8.) Collect the pollen in a container such as a petri dish. Place the petri dish on top of a wet paper towel. Then enclose both the petri dish and the paper towel within a larger, sealed storage container. At no time should the pollen be directly in contact with the wet paper towel. Avoid splashing water droplets onto the pollen. Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia pollen is short-lived, and germination ability declines within 1 to 2 days of storage. It is always best to use fresh pollen.
Following pollination, Dieffenbachia flowers require 100 percent relative humidity for pollen to germinate. This can be done by wrapping the entire spadix with moistened paper toweling and enclosing it in a plastic bag. The wrap is removed the next day so that it will not interfere with pollen production on the upper portion of the same flower. Pollen germination in Aglaonema is greater when provided high humidity, but Aglaonema pollen is not as sensitive as Dieffenbachia pollen.
Pollinated Dieffenbachia flowers develop mature fruits within 4 to 5 months. Aglaonema fruits mature in 4 to 6 months, although some hybrids have taken up to 1 year to develop ripe fruit. In both genera the seed coat turns bright red when the seed is mature.
To enhance germination, separate the mature seeds from the spadix. This is to lessen the chance of disease contamination from decaying fruit. Both Dieffenbachia and Aglaonema have large seeds, and the fleshy seed covering should be removed from the red, berry-like fruit before planting the seed. Keep cleaned seeds moist and plant them before they become dry.
High germination is achieved if seed are sown on top of a moist potting medium containing up to 50 percent peat moss by volume, and covered with plastic to prevent drying. Aroid seed begin to grow as soon as they are sown. The medium should be kept at a minimum of 70°F. Seedlings should be transferred to individual pots after the first true leaves are produced. Most aroid seedlings require 1 year of growth before they are large enough to be evaluated.
Henny, Richard J. 2001. Tips on Regulating Growth of Floriculture Crops. Foliage Plants Editor: Michelle, Gaston Columbus, Ohio: Ohio Florists Association, pp. 83-87.
Henny, R.J. 1988. Ornamental aroids: culture and breeding. In J. Janick (editor), Horticultural Reviews Vol. X., Timber Press, Portland, Or. Inc. p. 1-33.
Henny, R.J.and J Chen. 2008.New Plant Introductions Drive Markets https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP357.
Henny, R.J. and J. Chen 2003. Foliage plant cultivar development. Plant Breeding Reviews 23:245-290.
Henny, R.J., D.J. Norman, and J. Chen. 2004. Progress in ornamental aroid breeding research. Annals of the Missouri Botanical Garden 91:465-473.
Release Date:July 5, 2018
Reviewed At:December 10, 2021
- DOI: 10.32473/edis-ep382-2009
- Critical Issue: 1. Agricultural and Horticultural Enterprises
This document is ENH1117, one of a series of the Environmental Horticulture Department, UF/IFAS Extension. Original publication date May 2009. Revised March 2015. Visit the EDIS website at https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu. for the currently supported version of this publication.
J. Chen and R.J. Henny, professors, and T. Mellich, biologist; UF/IFAS Mid-Florida Research and Education Center, Apopka, Florida.