The agave snout-nosed weevil is a major pest in ever-increasing numbers. Dont wait for signs of infestation; take preventative measures NOW to protect your agaves, furcraeas, yuccas, beaucarneas and mangaves. Please dont let your yard become a breeding ground for pests that move on to your neighbors!
ON THIS PAGE youll find photos of common succulent pests, diseases and problems; and discover causes, severity, prevention and treatments.
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Aeoniums are a popular genus of succulent plants known for their gorgeous rosette shapes and ease of care. However, even these hardy plants can fall victim to pesky pests. As an aeonium grower, it’s crucial to understand the most common aeonium pests, the damage they cause, and effective prevention and control methods. Arm yourself with knowledge to keep your aeoniums happy and pest-free!
What Are the Most Common Aeonium Pests?
Aeoniums are prone to infestation from the following bugs:
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Aphids – These soft-bodied insects come in a variety of colors like green, black, or pink. They feed on plant sap and excrete a sticky residue called honeydew.
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Mealybugs – Identifiable by their white, cottony wax covering, mealybugs extract sap and also leave behind honeydew
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Scale Insects – Similar to mealybugs, these immobile pests attach themselves to leaves and stems to feed on sap.
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Spider Mites – Too small to see with the naked eye, spider mites form webs and cause stippling damage on leaves.
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Fungus Gnats – These tiny flying insects lay eggs in moist potting mix, The larvae then feed on plant roots,
What Damage Can Aeonium Pests Cause?
Failure to control aeonium pests promptly can lead to:
- Stunted or irregular growth
- Leaf yellowing and dropping
- Plant wilting and death
- Sooty mold growth from honeydew buildup
- Spread of plant diseases
An infestation can rapidly damage the health and appearance of aeoniums. So inspection and quick action are imperative.
Key Prevention Methods
An ounce of prevention is truly worth a pound of cure when it comes to aeonium pests. Here are some key tactics:
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Inspect regularly – Check leaf undersides and stems weekly for early signs of bugs.
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Isolate new plants – Quarantine new aeoniums for a few weeks before introducing to your existing collection.
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Promote air circulation – Allow space between plants and use fans to deter pests.
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Water wisely – Let soil dry out between waterings to discourage fungus gnats.
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Clean up debris – Remove fallen leaves and clutter to eliminate pest hiding spots.
Organic and Chemical Pest Control Options
If prevention fails and pests attack, you have both chemical and organic control options:
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Insecticidal soap – This affordable option kills soft-bodied insects like aphids. Spray directly on bugs and undersides of leaves.
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Neem oil – Derived from the neem tree, this organic pesticide coats plants to deter and kill insects.
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Horticultural oil – Smother scale insects, mites, and other pests by spraying this oil.
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Alcohol swabs – For mealybugs, use a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol to spot treat.
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Beneficial insects – Ladybugs, lacewings, and other “good bugs” feed on plant pests.
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Sticky traps – These yellow traps catch adult fungus gnats. Place near soil surface.
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Bacillus thuringiensis – This bacteria only harms larvae of pests like caterpillars when ingested.
Pest Control Game Plan
With some strategy, you can keep ahead of aeonium pests:
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Default to prevention first through plant spacing, quarantines, removing debris, careful watering, and frequent inspection.
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At first sight of pests, control small infestations by spraying with insecticidal soap or using alcohol on isolated bugs.
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For large infestations, use stronger treatments like horticultural oils or neem oil sprays. Repeat applications may be needed.
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After treatment, continue inspecting and apply follow-up applications of neem oil or soap to prevent recurring issues.
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For severe infestations, discard severely damaged plants to protect the rest of your collection.
While aeoniums are relatively pest-resistant, they can fall prey to sucking and chewing insects as well as fungal gnats. Stay vigilant with your prevention regimen of inspections, quarantines, cleanliness, and smart watering. At the first sign of pests, have organic and chemical control options on hand. With some knowledge and effort, you can keep your aeoniums happy and pest-free!
Frequency of Entities:
- aphids: 2
- mealybugs: 2
- scale insects: 1
- spider mites: 1
- fungus gnats: 2
- insecticidal soap: 1
- neem oil: 2
- horticultural oil: 1
- alcohol swabs: 1
- beneficial insects: 1
- sticky traps: 1
- Bacillus thuringiensis: 1
Mycoplasma — See Above: CrackLed, Scabby patches
The Aloe arborescens in the photo seems unaware that its roots are cramped and lack soil. I suspect that it split its nursery pot, then whoever owned it lazily set it, container and all, atop a soil-filled terra-cotta pot, which being topheavy fell over and broke. This shows how succulents get by with minimal nourishment from their roots. After all, succulents by definition are able to subsist on moisture stored in their leaves. The fatter and juicier a succulents leaves, the longer it will look OK despite being pot-bound or rootless (although its growth may be stunted).
Abrasion and leaf scarring
- Not Serious but unsightly.
- Most succulents eventually outgrow it.
Aeoniums are especially prone to brown marks from being handled. Lines and blotches show up a day after something or someone has touched the leaves. If youre making a bouquet of aeoniums or taking cuttings, hold them by their stems only, and dont let them brush up against anything.
See my video: Aeonium Leaves, What You Need to Know (1:23).
- Not serious but unsightly.
- Plants eventually outgrow it.
Blotchy patches appear on leaves and the top layer sloughs away. Unlike sunburn, the damaged area is lower than the surrounding leaf surface. Unlike frost, which typically “burns” tips, edema shows on the wider part of the leaves.
Edema can happen when agaves that are used to a cool, mild climate like the Bay Areas go through an intense heat spell.
Inconsistent watering also can cause edema. Blistering on one of my agaves happened after a pipe broke beneath it. If theres a way to anticipate or prevent the damage, Im unaware of it.
Dark, greasy blotches on agaves result from an eriophyid mite infestation, which can spread to your other agaves. Its best to remove and destroy the plants, but if this isnt possible, experts recommend drenching affected agaves (and those nearby) monthly, during the spring-fall growth season, with miticides, alternating two or three. Those that are earth-friendly include Neem Oil and GrowSafe. Continue treatment until new leaves show no sign of disease—which may take up to a year.
- Serious, potentially fatal
- Prevention is essential: Drench the ground beneath agaves in your garden in spring and fall with systemic insecticide.
- When potting agaves, add insecticide granules to the soil per label directions.
If your agave wilts and has dark patches at leaf axils, it likely has snout weevil, a thumbnail-sized black beetle that punctures an agaves core and inserts its eggs. Grubs hatch, consume the core of the plant, turn it to mush, then tunnel into the ground to pupate.
- Serious because it spreads
- Disfigures the plants
A microscopic mite causes bubbly, tumorlike growth on aloes, especially along leaf margins and flower spikes, and where leaves meet the stem. Once in a plant’s tissues, the mite continues to cause cancerous growth. Discard the aloe unless its important to you to keep it, in which case, cut out any affected tissue and bag it for the trash. Sterilize the tools you use with bleach or isopropyl alcohol. Aloe mite is still going to show up on that particular plant, so even if it looks fine, dont give friends cuttings.
- Serious
- Plants recover if caught in time.
Ants nest in the soil beneath aloes, haworthias and gasterias in late summer and fall, and feed on the plants core, which fills with dirt as the pests push it up from below. Peel away damaged leaves until you have a clean, unblemished core, and wash the roots. Replant in fresh soil where ants can’t access it. One way to do this is to place a potted succulent on an elevated stand surrounded by a moat of water.
Diatomaceous earth is a “green” alternative to powders containing pyrethrum. It scratches and penetrates insect exoskeletons, dehydrating them.
- Usually not serious
- May cause distorted growth
Juicy, pinhead insects latch onto and suck the juices of tender new leaves, flower stems, and buds. Ants place aphids on plants in order to feed on the bugs sweet, sticky secretions. Blast pests with a strong spray of water, release ladybugs and other beneficial insects, remove severely infested stems and buds, spray remaining aphids with Isopropyl alcohol, and take measures to prevent ants from accessing the plant.
When potting flowering succulents like the cotyledon shown here, add insecticidal granules to the soil per label directions.
- Not serious but unsightly
- No known cure
Not much is known about this, but its likely a fungus. It affects aloes, haworthias and gasterias. It spreads, especially in coastal areas, perhaps due to moist air. Keep leaves dry, locate plants where theres good air circulation, and remove affected leaves, sterilizing tools after each cut.
Jeff Moore of Solana Succulents prefers Aloe tongaensis over A. bainesii: “less issues and better flowers, if not as big.”
Leaves of rosette succulents such as graptopetalums, graptoverias, aloes and echeverias change color according to light conditions (the more light, the more rosy the leaves). When transitioning from green to red (or vice-versa), leaves may appear blotchy.
This often affects columnar euphorbias in coastal areas, so I consulted expert Jeff Moore of Solana Succulents in Solana Beach, CA. He says, “It has to be environmental as opposed to bugs. As benign and plant-friendly as coastal CA is, its not exactly like where the plants evolved. Ive always thought that hot fall or spring days, where an intense sun comes in more diagonal that a plant would evolve in at a lower latitude, can cause the skin to burn. Thats a best guess, maybe exacerbated by being under-hydrated in combo with intense sun. One thing I know for sure is that the burns/marks wont go away.”
San Diego Horticultural Society past president Jim Bishop offers an aesthetic answer: He paints the brown areas to make them disappear.
- Unsightly; serious if uncontrolled
Cochineal scale forms dots of white fluff on paddle cacti and will dye your fingertips red if you mash it. Blast the plant with a hose to dislodge the pests, scrub infested pads with a Safer soap solution in summer (use a soft bristled, long-handle brush). Spray with Neem oil in winter, and release beneficial predatory insects (ladybugs) in spring. Poor air circulation, heat and humidity make cochineal scale worse. Its difficult to get rid of if not caught early. If the infestation is severe, pads or entire plants may need to be removed.
Watch my YouTube video (2:01).
7 Pests You Probably Have In Your Garden (And What To Do)
FAQ
How do you protect Aeonium?
What are the pests on aeoniums?