Unearthing the Hidden History of Anubias Plants: A Journey Across Centuries and Continents

© 2002, Eugene Zagnitko is a high-skilled specialist in aquatic bio-systems area. He is an author of a number of original methods and techniques providing long-lasting, stable existing of closed water systems, mastered methods of breeding various difficult in rearing fish species. Keeping and propagation of aquatic plants is the area of his special interest. He elaborated different ways for adaptation of some marginal plants to be kept submerged, and an effective ferriferous fertilizer formula, offered a way of “black-beard” algae extirpation. He is also an expert in aquarium decoration, aquatic landscaping.

Part 1 – For beginners. Myths or in other words, what to buy in stores.

Very few aquarium plant hobbyists will walk past a beautiful, decorative, with glossy leaves, anubias plants. Caladifolia make you think of the Bonsai tiny trees, the sharp, pointed upwards, leaf-blades of the “congensis”, dwarf nana which remind you of a turtle shell mosaic, round leaves of the “ellipticus” stay apart from usual aquarium plant. Yet all of them belong to one genus of anubias.

The various kinds of anubias species, mentioned above, are not all of the ones that exist. They are pleasing to the eye, but still there’re rather rare aquarium inhabitancies. There are several reasons for that. First of all, anubias are not cheep. Second of all, even though they are a known species, you probably wont find much information. And, as usually happens in such cases, myths replace reliable information. For example, one myth tells they are extremely picky about their environment, or, even more, they cannot be cultivated in an aquarium at all. And they end up in seller’s aquarium by the confusion, or they try to find a moron to sell a terrestrial plant.

Let’s try to make some sense out of all that nonsense. So, the myth #1 states that anubias are terrestrial plants only and therefore arent suitable to be grown submerged. Begin by saying that there are not many strictly aquatic plants, such as elodea, hornwort, najas, in our aquariums. Most of aquatic plants, including ludwigia, cabomba, swords, and many others plants we see every day in our fishtanks, are amphibious and can grow in both aquatic and non-aquatic habitats. Of course, some plants may feel uncomfortable in one of the two habitats. Anubias are amphibious plants too, some species feel perfectly fine underneath the water level and even bloom there, and some may only survive occasional flooding. There are some that can’t stand submerged conditions, and should be just planted in a greenhouse. The last type is usually only for professionals and collectors. What is left for us is to learn how to tell one type from another one, so you can avoid being that “moron”.

Even if you are a beginner in aquarium hobby, you can easily recognize four main leaf blade shapes.

1. More or less round shape, sometimes elongated or heart-shaped.

2. Elongated: lance or elliptic.

3. Arrow-shaped: elongated main part, and at “ear-like” shaped base.

4. Triangular: simple triangular form or somewhat similar to the 3rd form, but without really pronounced “ears”.

I will tell you right off the bat that all almost plants of the first and second type, will feel great inside the aquarium. The arrow-shaped and triangular varieties unfortunately arent suited for long term aquarium imprisonment, and can only survive in it for about two months, after which they must be placed in a greenhouse for reabilitation. This is a simplified approach to the matter, but, for sure, there are many interested in nice looking and unusual plants beginners, who aren’t ready to jump right into anubias systematic nuances yet. We’ll talk about these nuances later on. You may wish to pay attention to couple things when you determine, based on leaf shape, if plant can be kept submerged or not. Look at adult plants only, which already have developed specific leaf shape. Young arrow-leaved plants don’t develop “ears”. But it is quite hard to make the mistake, because this type of plants is quite rare, and will most unlikely be sold for another, more common and less expensive type. Second, lately you could see some hybrids on a base of the arrow-shaped plants are reaching the market. It is quite possible that they carry on the leaf form, while being able to live submerged underwater. The information right now is quite scarce about them, so all I will say is that you can safely, without worries keep plants with round or elongated leaves submerged.

Now, the myth number two: many anubias are sold right from a greenhouse and are not anywhere suited to be placed inside the aquarium right away, and must be gradually adapted in by slowly raising water level. This is not true. You can take suitable for submerged keeping anubias and plant them right away inside the aquarium; you dont even have to wait.

You might say that you have heard that anubias require some special substrate type, and are extremely picky to their habitat. This is myth number three. In reality, anubias are quite undemanding plants. They will grow in almost sterile, unfertilized substrate, or in old almost anaerobic substrate.

I must, however, mention that there are three disasters that might happen with anubias inside an aquarium.

1. They not only can survive in shadows, they even prefer shadow conditions. In extreme light (about one watt per liter or more) they develop highly deformed, strangely shaped leaves.

2. In the water that is too rich in organic material anubias leaves may develop holes in them, so you must look after the condition of the aquarium. This happens when you dont regularly “vacuum” the ground, or overfeed the fish, or a dirty filter, or even if you forgot to change the water for quite some time.

3. Rarely, seemingly healthy anubias may all of a sudden have its growing-point start to rot and than fall off. That usually happens when the quality of the habitat has changed fast to the worst. For example, this might occur if the temperature is increased dramatically over a short period of time. Also it might occur when the anubias plant is transferred from extremely fertilize-rich environment in to a very poor one. Usually the plant itself will not rot completely, the growing-point will be regenerated in a different place not far away from the original one. It is difficult to say about main reason of this disease. May be it is some kind of latent invasion. Also, it is quite possible that the plant develops immunity towards such things. Russian specialist from Moscow Alexander Rumyantsev says that he has encountered something like that during the extreme hot summer. It happened again the following summer, but this time, none of the plants had been damaged. The process of rotting happens when the temperature reaches 40 Celsius or even more inside the greenhouse.

Anubias are quite “thermo-resistant” inside the aquariums. I have noticed no problems up to 35 C in my aquarium; only on some leaves I could see white specs at 35 C. Only when it got to 37 C did some of the types of anubias had some of their leaves dying. Therefore, a reasonable question occurs: why don’t the professional growers keep them in their aquariums? The thing is, anubias grow in greenhouse conditions somewhat faster, and develop much larger forms, bloom much more often, and you will have the opportunity to gather the seeds from them. Let us not forget, there are no algae bothering them either. But in terrestrial conditions you have to keep proper humidity, mix the special soil that they will grow in, fertilize them. While in an aquarium, where the fertilization is produced by the fish, such great care isn’t required. And you want some plants for your aquarium, not greenhouse, right?

“So it turns out that anubias plants grow slowly?” Let’s call that a myth #4, it is somewhat true. “Slowly” is not exactly defined the same in every persons mind. If you are planning to feed some livestock with it, then yes, they will grow too slowly to be able to supply a constant source of food. Usually they let out a leaf in 10 – 14 days. Yes, I agree, this is not a record in plant kingdom. Even more, some of their other forms grow even slower. But if you are creating an aquarium with a decorative composition, than I plainly recommend anubias. The aquarium interior will remain almost unchanged for quite a while, giving you more time to enjoy it. This isn’t Dutch style tank with fast growing bunch plants, requiring trimming down every week.

Anubias slow nature makes them somewhat more expensive than other common plant. Dont get me wrong, the price isn’t determined by just plant “slowness”, but also by its beauty, and its rareness and uncommonness.

Another myth or misunderstanding: Many beginners assume that smaller plants cost significantly less than the bigger one. Maybe it is true for one species, however its still questionable what is better: Grown in very comfortable conditions Barthii sword plant with compact, full of color rosette, or the same plant from a dark corner with few pale two feet long stalks and leaves. Yet you may not even dare to compare huge Amazon sword plant that you can buy at every LFS and very rare and extremely beautiful anubias “Cameroon”. For these are two different things.

Slowly from myths weve come to the question how to plant anubias. We can note one more attractive feature; they dont require special rooting procedure. Its enough to place the plant on substrate and in time it will take roots by itself, before that getting nutrients directly from water. This undemanding plant can be used in different decorative environments. For example, you can attach the anubias to a driftwood using line and get a ready-to-go decorative element that looks like a submerged algae-covered log. Youre better off using cotton thread than nylon line. Young anubias roots are clinging and attach themselves to the substrate or other objects.

With time cotton thread will rot away but the plant will be already fixed in its position. The nylon line can cut in growing plant rhizome. You can use Anubias plants to hide aquarium technical devices or back wall decoration. Using plastic mesh you can create “living wall” to mask filter, heater or any other device. If you use traditional method of growing on substrate make sure that thick rhizome wont be covered, only plant roots. The rhizome must be above substrate otherwise it can rot away.

In general, extremely wide variety of plant shapes and different heights allows to use them as front plant as well as background. You can use them as “ground-cover” creating nice-looking “meadow”. You can ask how to achieve it with such slow-growers. How long does it take? Well, first, aquarium hobby is not fast at all. Second, many anubias plants, dwarf species, in particular, can produce “branched” rhizomes. With time, you’ll have few shoots, each producing new leaves.

Speaking about anubias sizes. Keeping them in severe conditions without extra-luxuries slows their growing, allows getting smaller but fully developed leaves. If you have a plant that outgrew you fish tank you can perform a “surgery”. Cut all large leaves except last one with nearest growing point. New, following, leaves will be smaller. Or, you can make plant to grow smaller baby plant (see below). Or, you put plant in pot filled with composted pine needles. This significantly reduces plant growing rate and sizes. However, I’m not sure that this way is suitable for aquarium.

It’s time now to tell about plant propagation. It’s easy to understand that plant easily produce rhizome-shoots. Rhizome end has a growing point from which new leaves appear. Also, the rhizome has number of sleeping buds, which can start to develop when conditions are favorable, producing new growing points.

You can cut off or, even better, break off, a sprout when it has produced 3-5 leaves and own roots. Keeping few shoots on mother plant may results in its exhaustion and possible death. That doesn’t concern dwarf anubias nana that can grow well in multi-branched shape.

If plant doesn’t want to produce sprouts, you can, using sharp knife, cut few last inches of rhizome with leaves and growing point. Put rest of rhizome on substrate and with water level just above the rhizome.

Sometimes, even under water, anubias shots single arrow with flower resembles blooming calla. This is actually a spadix inflorescence with white spathe. Male flowers are on the top and female are at the bottom. Plant, grown in greenhouse, may produce seeds, but underwater flower – never.

Name of anubias plant and its origins|Origins of Anubias

FAQ

Where does the Anubias plant come from?

Can you bury Anubias’ roots?

Can I let my Anubias float?

Is Anubias low tech?

Why are Anubias popular in the aquarium hobby?

Anubias plants are popular in the aquarium hobby because of their tolerance to a wide range of water conditions and their ability to thrive under low light. These plants require minimal maintenance, making them perfect for beginners in the aquatic plant hobby. Some reasons why Anubias is popular in the aquarium hobby include:

Do Anubias grow in aquariums?

Anubias, most notably the varying forms of A. barteri, are commonly used in aquariums, usually attached to rocks or bogwood. In contrast to most plants, Anubias generally prefer subdued lighting and can also produce flowers underwater. In the aquarium they should be placed in shaded areas, otherwise algae will develop on the leaves.

What genus is Anubias?

The genus Anubias is included in the subfamily Aroideae, a subgroup of Araceae, and can be found in tropical and subtropical regions of West Africa and Central Africa. Anubias plants are part of the Araceae family (arum family). They are monocots within this family. Anubias is the genus and includes around 8 to 10 recognized species.

Do Anubias have a rhizome?

Rhizome: Anubias plants have a horizontal and thick rhizome from which the roots, leaves, and stems emerge. The rhizome helps the plant anchor itself to rocks, driftwood, or other surfaces in its natural habitat. Do not bury the rhizome, as it may rot and damage the plant.