Aeoniums are gorgeous succulent plants known for their striking rosettes of fleshy green leaves. With their sculptural shapes and stress-tolerant nature, it’s no wonder aeoniums are gaining popularity with indoor gardeners and landscapers alike.
However, caring for these beauties does require a certain finesse when it comes to fertilization Apply too much, and you risk burning the roots Too little, and your plant may fail to thrive. To help your aeonium put its best leaf forward, here are the dos and don’ts to follow when feeding these succulent stunners.
Choosing the Right Fertilizer for Aeoniums
When researching fertilizers for your aeonium, there are a few key factors to consider:
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Balanced NPK ratio: Look for a formula with equal parts nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). This balanced approach provides a steady nutrition stream without risk of toxicity.
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Dilutable and soluble Pick a fertilizer that can be diluted with water and dissolved entirely This allows for controlled application to avoid chemical leaf burns
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Organic options For a natural approach, choose an organic fertilizer made from sources like fish emulsion kelp, or compost. These break down slowly releasing a gentle nutrition flow.
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Bloom booster potential: Some fertilizers have more phosphorus to promote blooming. Aeoniums don’t require these, but they can encourage increased flowering if desired.
No matter which type you choose, refrain from heavy fertilization. The golden rule is to start with diluted applications and observe the plant’s response. An aeonium would always prefer to be underfed versus overfed.
When to Fertilize Aeoniums
As succulents native to the Canary Islands, aeoniums are used to rocky terrain and drought. This means they require far less feeding than ordinary garden plants. Here are some tips on fertilizer timing:
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During active growth: Target spring through fall when the plant is actively growing. Aeoniums tend to go dormant in winter.
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Every 4-6 weeks: Fertilize lightly but regularly while the plant is actively growing. Monthly or biweekly applications are sufficient.
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Half-strength in winter: If desired, use a half-strength fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during winter dormancy. This is optional though.
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None in high heat: Avoid fertilizer during summer heat waves or temperature extremes. This added stress may do more harm than good.
Adjust fertilization to match the plant’s growth habits and seasonal needs. More isn’t better with aeoniums.
How to Apply Fertilizer to Aeoniums
When it comes to feeding time, technique matters. Follow these application tips to avoid fertilizer fumbles:
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Water first: Give plants a thorough watering to prevent root damage from dry fertilizer.
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No leaves: Never apply fertilizer directly to the leaves. This risks chemical burns.
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Soil only: Sprinkle granular fertilizer evenly around the soil base. For liquids, directly drench the soil.
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Containers: For potted plants, apply fertilizer evenly across the entire soil surface.
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No puddling: Avoid concentrated puddles of fertilizer solution. Instead, gently water in to soak the whole root zone.
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Rinse leaves: If any fertilizer contacts leaves, flush immediately with clean water to prevent leaf burn.
With a careful, restrained approach you can nourish your aeonium without causing harm. Think of it like giving your succulent small, nutritious snacks versus one big fertilizer feast.
What to Avoid When Fertilizing Aeoniums
Just as important as how to feed aeoniums properly is knowing what practices to avoid:
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Overfertilizing: Resist the urge to accelerate growth with heavy feeding. Too much fertilizer will damage roots and leaves.
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Applying when wet: Never fertilize on drenched soil or when rain is forecast. This amplifies risk of chemical burns.
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Using pure concentrates: Always dilute fertilizer to half strength or less to avoid toxicity. Many succulents are sensitive.
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Feeding too often: Aeoniums are light feeders. Fertilize monthly at most during active growth to prevent buildup.
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Applying during stress: Don’t fertilize if the plant is already stressed from repotting, pests, or other factors.
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Skipping dilution: Follow label instructions carefully and don’t skip diluting concentrates. Start weaker rather than stronger.
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Compacting the soil: Avoid pressing fertilizer granules into the soil. This causes concentrated pockets around roots.
By steering clear of these missteps, you’ll keep your aeonium’s fertilizer regimen healthy and productive. Moderation is key with these succulents.
Signs Your Aeonium is Overfertilized
While aeoniums don’t need heavy feeding, it’s easy to get carried away. Be alert for these signs of fertilizer overload:
- Wilting, drooping leaves
- Curled or browned leaf tips
- Stunted new growth
- Leaves dropping or dying back
- White crusting on the soil
- Root damage – blackened, mushy, or limp
If you notice these issues, hold off on fertilizer. Flush the soil by watering thoroughly to remove any built-up salts. Trim any dead leaves or damaged roots before resuming a diluted regimen.
Encouraging Aeoniums to Bloom
While healthy aeoniums will bloom in their own time, it is possible to encourage more prolific flowering by tweaking fertilization:
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Boost phosphorus: Use a fertilizer with higher phosphorus content to promote blooms. A ratio like 10-30-10 is ideal.
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Timing matters: Apply the phosphorus-rich fertilizer monthly, just before the anticipated bloom window.
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Watch your dosage: As always, dilution is key. Observe the plant’s response and avoid overfeeding.
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Know the signs: Curled, browned tips signal too much fertilizer. Adjust your regimen accordingly.
With the right balance of nutrients and care, your aeonium will reward you with a bounty of sculptural blooms. Just remember to feed with a gentle hand and let the plant set the pace. Proper fertilization keeps aeoniums looking healthy and radiant year-round.
Frequency of Entities:
Aeonium: 43
Fertilizer: 25
Leaves: 16
Succulent: 7
Plant: 34
Bloom: 5
Roots: 5
Soil: 7
Water: 5
Phosphorus: 3
Potassium: 1
Nitrogen: 2
NPK: 1
Growth: 5
Dormant: 2
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Introduction: How to Care for Aeonium Arboreum
Ive grown Aeoniums along the coast of California & now, here in the Arizona desert. These Aeonium arboreum care tips cover you for both climates. They do great in containers!
Time to serve up more succulent love. This go round it’s those fascinating rosette forming aeoniums which I grew lots of in my Santa Barbara garden. I was told they wouldn’t do nearly as well here in Tucson but I brought few cuttings with me anyway. To my surprise, they’re doing fine.
This is all about Aeonium arboreum care, in 2 very different climates.
I was going to do a post and video about growing aeoniums in the desert but then thought: why not include the coastal regions of California (also including San Diego, Los Angeles, the Bay Area & points in between) where I lived for 30 years. Aeonium arboreums are known for being tough and I believe that’s why mine are doing so well here in the desert. Other varieties of aeoniums aren’t as adaptable.
Some sold as Aeonium arboreums are actually hybrids so you may never know which 1 you have. Mine can labeled as Aeonium arboreum and Aeonium arboreum autropurpureum (say that 3 times fast!) when I bought them years ago. You may also be familiar with the variety Zwartkop and its striking purple/black foliage. Regardless, the care is the same.
This post and video are about growing Aeonium arboreums in containers outdoors. I’ll touch briefly on how to grow them as houseplants at the end. You may want to read this if yours spends the warmer months outside. By the way, one of the common names for this plant is Tree Aeonium. They’re in the Crassulacaefamily along with the vary popularJade Plant.
Step 1: Aeonium Arboreum: Things to Know
Size
These succulents reach 3′ x 3′ so they need some room to spread.
Uses
They’re great in containers, alone as accent plants or with other succulents. I had many planted directly in my garden in Santa Barbara. You see them a lot in Southern California in mixed succulent plantings, even along the beaches.
Growth Rate
Aeonium arboreum care: Tucson: USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 9A/9B
Santa Barbara:: USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 10A/10B
Exposure
My aeoniums were growing in the morning &/or afternoon sun in Santa Barbara. In Tucson, they can take full sun in the late fall/winter/early spring months. In the hot months, my aeoniums are in bright shade receiving no direct sun at all. The sun is stronger & more intense here in the Sonoran desert than along the coast of California & they’d burn in a heartbeat.
Watering
In Santa Barbara: I’ve found aeoniums need a bit more water than most succulents. I water them thoroughly & then let them go almost dry before watering again. In the summer months I backed off on the watering (maybe once a month if that) because that’s the time for aeoniums to go dormant or semi-dormant. And, I would water even less if the fog was hanging around.
Most aeoniums are native to the Canary Islands so they much prefer the climate in Santa Barbara & the temperate coastal areas of California rather than the deserts! In Tucson: I water my Aeonium arboreums thoroughly every 7-10 days (less if we’re getting the monsoons) in the summer. Because it’s so hot here, I’ve found they need supplemental watering during these months. In the winter months a thorough watering every 3 weeks seems to be the sweet spot. Mine are in a larger pot & planted in my special blend so adjust for your climate, size pot, soil mix, sun exposure, etc.
Hardiness
Aeoniums are hardy to 25-30F. They can handle an occasional cold snap but not a prolonged one. I never protected any of my succulents in Santa Barbara because the winter temps rarely dipped below 38F. Here in Tucson it’s a different story. When the temps. drop below 30F, I cover mine with a large sheet & that protects it just fine.
Pruning
I find these arboreums grow into a beautiful shape over time & not much pruning is needed. The rosette foliage heads get heavy over time & sometimes a branch will break. That’s when I have to prune in order to make a clean cut. And of course, when I wanted to give away cuttings. Sharing the succulent love!
Propagation
Propagating Aeonium aboreums is easy by stem cuttings & division. I would heal aeomium cuttings off for 6 months & they’d be just fine. You can see me propagating the cuttings I brought from Santa Barbara here & my Aeonium arboreums here.
Warning: the latter is an old post & video but you’ll get the drift!
Soil
I have you covered with a dedicated post about the soil mix I use for aeoniums. And, you can see how much these plants have grown in 7 months.
Repotting/Planting
I cover repotting & planting in the same post as above. The main things I need to warn you about: these arboreums get quite heavy as they grow larger & can easily break when you’re planting them. You’ll see that if you watch the video.
Feeding/Fertilizing
I’ve found that aeoniums aren’t that needy when it comes to fertilizing. Right now I feed all my container plants with a light application of worm compost followed by a light layer of compost over that in early spring. Don’t too it too late because these plants go dormant or semi-dormant in summer.
Easy does it – I top dress a plant this size with 1″ of worm compost & 2″ of compost. In case you’re interested I also use this worm compost/compost blend to feed container plants & houseplants. I can’t recommend a specific fertilizer because I’ve never used 1 for my aeoniums. Mine look just fine so I have no need.
Pests
Mine have never gotten any here in Tucson. In the Spring in Santa Barbara, they’d occasionally get orange aphids on the tender growth. I just hosed them off & that took care of them. I’ve heard they can also get mealybugs, especially when growing indoors. It’s best to take action as soon as you see any pest because multiply like crazy. Pests can travel from plant to plant fast so make you get them under control pronto.
Pets
I’m including this because you may be growing your Aeonium arboreum as a houseplant. I consult the ASPCA website for my info on this subject. Because they’re in the same family as Jade Plants, I’d take caution. I will say that pack rats have gnawed away at many of my plants & leave these aeoniums alone. Many plants are toxic to pets in some way & I want to share my thoughts with you regarding this topic.
BEST TIPS: HOW TO CARE FOR AEONIUM SUCCULENT PLANTS
FAQ
What is the best fertilizer for Aeonium?
What is the best feed for aeoniums?
Do aeoniums like full sun?
Are aeoniums easy to grow?
Aeonium haworthii ‘Tricolor’ or ‘Kiwi’: An easy growing 2- to 3-foot plant, it has 4-inch flowers that have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green. Propagating aeonium results in a number of plants from just one cutting because of the way the plant branches, so it’s a good way to multiply your collection.
Do aeoniums need a lot of space?
Aeoniums benefit from typical succulent care, including strong light, regular water when the soil is going dry, and good drainage. They do not demand a lot of space in pots, but the larger plants do appreciate some extra room, and one Aeonium (nobile) gets large enough to become impractical in most containers.
Can aeoniums be propagated from cuttings?
Propagating aeonium results in a number of plants from just one cutting because of the way the plant branches, so it’s a good way to multiply your collection. Like many succulents, aeoniums are very easy to propagate from cuttings —even stem pieces that fall off the plant may readily take root in the surrounding soil.
Do Aeonium plants need a lot of water?
If you’re looking to grow your aeonium plants in a traditional garden bed that has dense soil, you should amend the mixture with peat moss to improve its porosity. When planted outdoors, aeonium plants should get all the water they need from rainfall.