Succulents are commonly propagated from cuttings, offsets, leaves, and division. Growing succulents from seed is an educational and fun way to obtain plants in larger numbers. Some succulents, such as Dudleya, Lithops, Echeveria and Cacti, are only grown from seed because it is the most practical way to propagate them. This is because many succulents do not offset as freely as others. Nurseries also like to offer succulents in smaller sizes. This is why you dont see different succulents in 2″ pots or if you do, they may be more expensive because they are grown from seed.
Growing succulents from seed is a rewarding and fun way to learn about the entire life cycle of a plant. The first step in this process is obtaining seed. Many succulent seed sources online are not reputable and can be hard to find. The best way to know what youre getting is by collecting seed from your own collection.
The ability to collect seeds depends on the maturity and cross-pollination of your mother plant. If you have a young plant, it may take a few years for the plant to flower. Aeonium, Greenovia, and Agave are all monocarpic genera; meaning the rosette will flower once in its life time and it may take longer to be able to harvest seed from. Aeonium are fast-growers and will eventually flower annually, off of different offsets, once established in the garden.
Many succulents need to be cross-pollinated, which means there needs to pollen transferred from one plant to another of the same species. If you do not see pollinators visiting your plants, or your collection is in an enclosed space that does not give access to pollinators, you will need to use a small paintbrush and pollinate them yourself. Note: Succulents that are genetically identical (cuttings from the same plant) will not produce viable seed. You will be able to tell pollination has occurred when the fruit starts to swell and become ripe.
To achieve the highest viability, seed capsules should be fully ripe and dry before collecting. Some fruits will split open and disperse on their own, such as Aloe spp. In this case it is important to collect when the seed capsule is dry/ brown, but before the seeds fall on the ground or get blown away. Set a plate or tray under the flower stalk or use a small net or sock to capture them.
Pictured above: An unripe Glottiphyllum nellii fruit is green (left). A dry, brown, and hard seed capsule that is ready to be harvested (right).
For microscopic seeds such as Aeonium, Dudleya, Echeveria, place a paper bag over the inflorescence, cut the stalk, and turn the bag upside down in order to collect without losing seed to the wind.
DO NOT ever collect seed from native habitats. This is considered poaching unless you have a permit and punishable by law.
Pictured above: Aeonium Ballerina seed not ready to be harvested (left) and Aeonium Thundercloud seed ready to be harvested and planted (right).
Seeds can easily be processed by breaking open the capsules by hand. Smaller seeds can be processed by using a small grinder to separate the seed from the capsules and then sifting the seeds from the chaff with a mesh strainer. Hard seed capsules such as Mesembs (Lithops, Glottiphyllum, etc.) can be removed by placing the seeds in a Ziploc or paper bag, beaten with a hammer, and then removed by hand.
Store seeds in paper bags or seed packets in dry, protected areas. Humidity and heat will reduce viability dramatically. If you plan to store seeds in plastic bags, be sure the seeds are completely dry. If seeds are harvested prematurely, the excess moisture will cause seeds to rot in glass or plastic. Label your package with the species name, date collected, and location. Seeds can be saved for years and stay viable when stored correctly.
Collecting and growing from your own seed is a sustainable way to grow many plants. Through genetic diversity, you will find many variations of foliage color and shape. This is where the real fun begins and you might even be able to name a special selection of your own.
Aeoniums are a genus of succulent plants that have rose-shaped rosettes of colorful, fleshy leaves. They are originally native to the Canary Islands but are now grown as popular houseplants and garden specimens around the world. Knowing when and how to properly harvest these striking plants can help you keep them healthy and encourage more growth. In this article, we’ll break down the ideal timing and simple techniques for harvesting your aeoniums.
When Is the Best Time to Harvest Aeoniums?
Timing is important when harvesting aeoniums Here are the optimal times to remove leaves or rosettes
Spring
Early spring is an excellent time to take cuttings or remove offsets from aeoniums The plants are just coming out of dormancy and will have enough energy stored in their leaves and stems to recover from pruning, Cuttings taken in spring will root quickly
Summer
During summer, mature aeoniums will focus their energy on blooming. You can remove spent flower stalks during this season. Avoid taking many cuttings in summer, as heat stress may prevent them from rooting well.
Fall
As temperatures cool in fall, aeoniums start to go dormant. The plants begin storing energy and nutrients in their leaves in preparation for winter. Taking cuttings in early fall allows them time to root before frost. Removing older leaves in the fall helps the plant conserve energy.
Avoid Winter
Avoid harvesting or pruning aeoniums at all during the winter months. The plants are fully dormant and unable to recover from any damage or stress.
Techniques for Harvesting Aeoniums
When harvesting your aeoniums, follow these simple techniques to keep the plants healthy:
Removing Spent Flowers
During the summer bloom period, deadhead faded flowers by snapping off the tall stalks where they meet the rosette. Use clean, sterilized shears for a clean cut. This triggers the plant to produce more blooms.
Taking Leaf Cuttings
Choose healthy leaves from the outer part of the rosette. Use a clean, sharp knife or razor blade to detach the leaves at the base. Allow cuttings to dry for 2-3 days before planting in well-draining soil.
Pruning Old Leaves
To encourage new growth, selectively prune old or damaged leaves in the fall. Carefully trim aging leaves at the stem with sterilized scissors. Avoid removing more than 1/3 of the foliage at once.
Dividing Rosettes
If the main rosette grows too large, you can divide it in early spring. Gently tease apart rosette offshoots or pups at the soil line with your hands or a knife. Replant pups in their own containers.
Removing Offsets
Detach aeonium offset rosettes that form on short stems near the soil. Use clean hands or pruners to remove them with a bit of roots and repot separately. Spring is ideal.
Cutting Back Leggy Plants
If plants get leggy or spread out, cut healthy stems back by halfway to encourage compact growth. Make cuts with sharp, clean shears above a leaf node.
Letting Cuttings Callous
After taking leaf or stem cuttings, allow them to callous or dry out for 2-7 days. This prevents rot when propagating. Lay cuttings in a shady spot until the cut end forms a protective layer of cells.
Using Rooting Hormone
Dip cut ends of leaves or stems in rooting hormone powder before planting. This stimulates root growth for quicker propagation success. Let treated ends dry briefly before planting.
Sterilizing Tools
Always use pruning tools that have been sterilized with isopropyl alcohol to prevent spreading disease between plants. Wipe blades down between each cut.
Disinfecting After Pruning
After removing damaged leaves or stems, dip the freshly cut end in hydrogen peroxide or cinnamon powder. This prevents infection from entering through the wound.
Providing Aftercare
Once harvested, aeoniums need bright light and reduced watering to recover. Propagated cuttings require warm temperatures, high humidity, and moist soil to root successfully.
With the proper timing and techniques, you can easily harvest leaves, stems, offsets, and cuttings from aeoniums for propagation and rejuvenation. Early spring or fall are the best seasons so the plants can devote energy to healing and new growth. Always use clean, sharp tools and give newly harvested plants conditions optimized for rooting. Avoid harvesting in winter when plants are dormant. With a little care, harvesting your aeoniums helps keep these succulents healthy while multiplying your collection.
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Succulents are commonly propagated from cuttings, offsets, leaves, and division. Growing succulents from seed is an educational and fun way to obtain plants in larger numbers. Some succulents, such as Dudleya, Lithops, Echeveria and Cacti, are only grown from seed because it is the most practical way to propagate them. This is because many succulents do not offset as freely as others. Nurseries also like to offer succulents in smaller sizes. This is why you dont see different succulents in 2″ pots or if you do, they may be more expensive because they are grown from seed.
Growing succulents from seed is a rewarding and fun way to learn about the entire life cycle of a plant. The first step in this process is obtaining seed. Many succulent seed sources online are not reputable and can be hard to find. The best way to know what youre getting is by collecting seed from your own collection.
The ability to collect seeds depends on the maturity and cross-pollination of your mother plant. If you have a young plant, it may take a few years for the plant to flower. Aeonium, Greenovia, and Agave are all monocarpic genera; meaning the rosette will flower once in its life time and it may take longer to be able to harvest seed from. Aeonium are fast-growers and will eventually flower annually, off of different offsets, once established in the garden.
Many succulents need to be cross-pollinated, which means there needs to pollen transferred from one plant to another of the same species. If you do not see pollinators visiting your plants, or your collection is in an enclosed space that does not give access to pollinators, you will need to use a small paintbrush and pollinate them yourself. Note: Succulents that are genetically identical (cuttings from the same plant) will not produce viable seed. You will be able to tell pollination has occurred when the fruit starts to swell and become ripe.
How to Collect:
To achieve the highest viability, seed capsules should be fully ripe and dry before collecting. Some fruits will split open and disperse on their own, such as Aloe spp. In this case it is important to collect when the seed capsule is dry/ brown, but before the seeds fall on the ground or get blown away. Set a plate or tray under the flower stalk or use a small net or sock to capture them.
Pictured above: An unripe Glottiphyllum nellii fruit is green (left). A dry, brown, and hard seed capsule that is ready to be harvested (right).
For microscopic seeds such as Aeonium, Dudleya, Echeveria, place a paper bag over the inflorescence, cut the stalk, and turn the bag upside down in order to collect without losing seed to the wind.
DO NOT ever collect seed from native habitats. This is considered poaching unless you have a permit and punishable by law.
Pictured above: Aeonium Ballerina seed not ready to be harvested (left) and Aeonium Thundercloud seed ready to be harvested and planted (right).
How to Process Seeds:
Seeds can easily be processed by breaking open the capsules by hand. Smaller seeds can be processed by using a small grinder to separate the seed from the capsules and then sifting the seeds from the chaff with a mesh strainer. Hard seed capsules such as Mesembs (Lithops, Glottiphyllum, etc.) can be removed by placing the seeds in a Ziploc or paper bag, beaten with a hammer, and then removed by hand.
Note: Always process seed indoors because a gust of wind can quickly blow them away.
How to Store Seeds:
Store seeds in paper bags or seed packets in dry, protected areas. Humidity and heat will reduce viability dramatically. If you plan to store seeds in plastic bags, be sure the seeds are completely dry. If seeds are harvested prematurely, the excess moisture will cause seeds to rot in glass or plastic. Label your package with the species name, date collected, and location. Seeds can be saved for years and stay viable when stored correctly.
Collecting and growing from your own seed is a sustainable way to grow many plants. Through genetic diversity, you will find many variations of foliage color and shape. This is where the real fun begins and you might even be able to name a special selection of your own.
Tips & Tricks for Propagating Aeoniums || Quick & Easy Guide
FAQ
How do you propagate Aeonium from leaves?
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