Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia (members of the plant family Araceae) are popular tropical foliage plants. In order to develop new ornamental Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia cultivars, plant breeders must be able to overcome breeding barriers. Ability to control flowering, effect successful pollination and secure seed production are essential for hybridization of these crops.
Commonly known as dumb cane, the genus Dieffenbachia includes about 30 species native to the tropical forests of Central and South America. The chromosome number of most Dieffenbachia species is 2n = 34. Although some Dieffenbachia plants may cross-pollinate in the wild, directed interspecific hybridization by breeders is the primary means of generating new commercial cultivars.
Academic and private commercial breeding programs that develop Dieffenbachia have focused on novel leaf variegation patterns and on increased branching to give the plant a full appearance. Almost 100 cultivars have been introduced over the years, but only about 20 Dieffenbachia cultivars remain consistently popular commercially. Nine hybrids have been released through the University of Florida MREC-Apopka Plant Breeding Program including Triumph, Victory, Tropic Star, Starry Nights, Star White, Star Bright, Sparkles, Tropic Honey, and Sterling.
When breeding for novel leaf patterns, inheritance of variegation is dominant over inheritance of non-variegation. A single dominant allele interacts with modifier genes to determine variegation patterns within Dieffenbachia. Multiple genes control basal shoot formation. For more information, the reader is referred to Henny 1988, Henny and Chen 2003, and Henny, et al 2004.
Commonly called Chinese evergreen, Aglaonema is one of the most widely used foliage plants due to its ability to tolerate low light and low humidity, and its resistance to diseases and pests. This crop has been commercially cultivated in Florida since the 1930s. The genus Aglaonema includes 21 species native to Southeast Asia. In the wild, Aglaonema species are open-pollinated. The base number of chromosomes is 2n = 6, with subsequent polyploidy in many cases.
Aglaonema hybrids for ornamental foliage production are almost exclusively developed via interspecific hybridization within traditional breeding programs. The species A. nitidum, A. commutatum, A. costatum, and A. rotundum are commonly used in the interspecific hybridization work. Current breeding activities focus on generating novel foliage variegation patterns, new petiole colors, increased branching, and better chilling resistance.
Popular hybrids from the breeding program at the University of Floridas MREC in Apopka include Aglaonema Silver Bay, which has a medium green leaf blade overlaid with a gray-green center; Emerald Bay, which has a white and green mottled stem; and Diamond Bay displaying a bold central gray stripe against a dark green leaf blade. For more information, the reader is referred to Henny and Chen 2008; and Henny et al. 2003.
The aglaonema, also known as the Chinese evergreen, is a popular houseplant admired for its colorful foliage and easy care requirements. While these hardy plants can thrive for years with minimal maintenance, occasionally it becomes necessary to harvest aglaonema leaves for propagation or aesthetic purposes. Proper timing and technique are key to ensuring the plant’s health and vigor after harvesting.
When to Harvest Aglaonema Leaves
The ideal time to harvest aglaonema leaves is during the growing season typically early spring through summer. This allows the plant to quickly regenerate new foliage. Avoid harvesting in fall and winter when plants enter dormancy. Only harvest fully mature, healthy leaves and leave at least two intact leaves per stem to sustain growth. Harvest leaves as needed based on your purposes allowing several weeks between subsequent harvests for recovery.
Signs leaves are ready for harvesting:
- Fully expanded and mature size
- Vibrant green color (variegated types exhibit white or pink)
- No blemishes, spots, damage or disease
- Minimal yellowing or browning
Harvesting Techniques for Aglaonema
Using Clean Pruning Shears
The best method is using sharp sterile pruning shears or scissors. Cut the leaf’s petiole near the base of the plant at a 45 degree angle. Avoid ripping leaves off by hand as this can damage stems.
Division Method
For overgrown plants, divide the rootball into smaller sections, ensuring each division has sufficient roots and foliage. Replant divisions in fresh potting mix.
Stem Cuttings
Cut a stem with 3-4 leaves. Remove lower leaves and dip end in rooting hormone. Plant in soil or water until roots form.
Water Propagation
Cut a stem below a node and place in water until roots emerge. Change water weekly. Once rooted, plant in soil.
Leaf Cuttings
Cut a leaf with a small portion of attached petiole. Place cut end in water or moist soil until new plantlet emerges.
Aftercare Following Harvesting
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Check for any oozing sap at cut sites which can attract pests. Wipe away any exuded sap.
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Disinfect shears with diluted alcohol to prevent transmitting diseases between plants.
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Allow several weeks before subsequent harvesting to minimize stress.
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Maintain optimal growing conditions after harvesting. Provide bright, indirect light and consistent watering.
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Monitor for pests or infection which can invade through fresh wound sites. Treat any issues promptly.
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Reduce fertilizer applications until sufficient new growth appears. Fertilizing stressed plants can burn roots.
Uses for Harvested Aglaonema
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Decorative – Use cut foliage in floral arrangements. Fresh leaves will last approximately 2 weeks.
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Propagation – Start new plants from cuttings or divisions. Share with fellow plant lovers.
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Consumption – Enjoy harvested leaves brewed into a nutritious tea. Exercise caution as toxicity varies.
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Crafts – Incorporate leaves into homemade soaps, candles, potpourri, etc.
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Gifts – Share clippings with friends and family to expand your plant collection.
What to Avoid When Harvesting Aglaonema
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Harvesting in fall/winter during dormancy or very hot periods which can shock plants.
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Cutting too many leaves at once leaving insufficient foliage for recovery.
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Damaging the crown or apical meristem which can kill the plant. Make cuts further down the stems.
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Harvesting old, discolored or damaged leaves which have reduced aesthetics.
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Creating large open wounds which are entry points for disease and pests. Make narrow, clean cuts.
Troubleshooting Issues with Aglaonema After Harvesting
Leaves Wilt/Droop
This stress response is likely due to excessive harvesting. Allow plant to recover before subsequent harvests. Improve growing conditions and monitor watering needs.
No New Growth
If no new leaves emerge after several weeks, the plant is struggling to recover from harvesting stress. Fertilize lightly and ensure ideal care is provided. Propagate by cuttings as a backup.
Yellow/Brown Spots Appear
This can indicate a problem with disease, improper watering, or nutrient deficiency. Rule out cultural issues first, then treat any disease. Limit future harvesting to reduce stress.
Stem Rots
Exposed cut sites are vulnerable to bacterial or fungal rot infections. Apply a fungicide and remove diseased stems. Allow more time between harvests for wound healing.
Pest Infestation
Pests are attracted to vulnerable newly harvested plants. Treat immediately with appropriate organic pest control and maintain vigilance. Avoid overharvesting to limit stress.
Key Takeaways on Harvesting Aglaonema
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Harvest during periods of active growth in spring/summer.
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Use clean, sharp shears or scissors for smooth cuts that heal rapidly.
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Leave several fully intact leaves per stem for recovery.
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Monitor for signs of shock or distress after harvesting.
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Allow sufficient time between subsequent harvests.
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Utilize cut foliage for propagation, arrangements, crafts, gifts and more!
With the proper techniques and timing, harvesting aglaonema can be an easy and rewarding way to propagate your plant collection or create beautiful decorative displays to enjoy. Pay close attention to the plant’s needs after harvesting and optimize growing conditions to maintain health. Incorporate harvested aglaonema leaves into your home and garden projects.
Flowering, Pollination and Seed Production
Under natural conditions, Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia produce only 3 to 5 flowers per stem per year. Different species within each genus may not flower simultaneously. This potential barrier to breeding has been overcome by the use of gibberellic acid (GA3) sprays to stimulate flowering. Treatment consists of a single foliar spray of 250 to 1,000 ppm GA3. Flowers appear 90 to 120 days after treatment. Additionally, GA3 treatment increases the number of flowers produced per plant. This helps to ensure a sufficient supply of flowers for breeding purposes. With careful planning, different species of the same genus can be induced to flower simultaneously. (Henny, 2001).
Both Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia have unisexual flowers (Figure 3 and Figure 4). Aroid inflorescences consist of a spadix enclosed by a spathe. The spadix is a fleshy spike covered with many small, unisexual flowers. The unisexual flowers contain male (staminate) flowers on the upper half of the spadix and female (pistillate) flowers on the lower portion of the spadix, with a small area between that may be devoid of flowers.
To prevent inbreeding in their native habitat, both genera are dichogamous (male and female receptivity is not synchronous). The inflorescences of Dieffenbachia and Aglaonema exhibit protogyny (female receptivity occurs first). Female flowers on the spadix mature first and simultaneously. Then, approximately 2 days later, after the females on that spadix are no longer receptive; the male flowers of that spadix mature simultaneously and produce pollen. This discourages self-pollination.
Receptivity of female flowers coincides with the unfurling of the spathe (Figure 5 and Figure 6). Spathes from these two genera normally begin to unfurl at night and pollination can occur any time during the following day. Receptivity of Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia flowers lasts at least 24 hours as evidenced by pollen germination studies. Female flower surfaces that have become discolored and soft are no longer receptive. Seed has been obtained from flowers of both genera pollinated one full day after spathe unfurling, but the number of seeds is smaller.
To cross-pollinate Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia, it is necessary to obtain pollen from one inflorescence with ripe males and to manually transfer the pollen to another inflorescence that has receptive females (Figure 7). The pollen is not wind disseminated. Pollen transfer begins by using a small, soft brush to sweep pollen into a container. The same brush used to collect the pollen may be used for application of pollen to the female. First make the brush sticky by gently wiping it against the female stigmatic surfaces. Then dip the sticky brush into the pollen supply and lightly brush pollen grains onto the stigmatic surfaces of receptive flowers.
If pollen is in short supply, it can be stored in a container in a high-humidity environment in a refrigerator. Humidity affects pollen viability (Figure 8.) Collect the pollen in a container such as a petri dish. Place the petri dish on top of a wet paper towel. Then enclose both the petri dish and the paper towel within a larger, sealed storage container. At no time should the pollen be directly in contact with the wet paper towel. Avoid splashing water droplets onto the pollen. Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia pollen is short-lived, and germination ability declines within 1 to 2 days of storage. It is always best to use fresh pollen.
Following pollination, Dieffenbachia flowers require 100 percent relative humidity for pollen to germinate. This can be done by wrapping the entire spadix with moistened paper toweling and enclosing it in a plastic bag. The wrap is removed the next day so that it will not interfere with pollen production on the upper portion of the same flower. Pollen germination in Aglaonema is greater when provided high humidity, but Aglaonema pollen is not as sensitive as Dieffenbachia pollen.
Pollinated Dieffenbachia flowers develop mature fruits within 4 to 5 months. Aglaonema fruits mature in 4 to 6 months, although some hybrids have taken up to 1 year to develop ripe fruit. In both genera the seed coat turns bright red when the seed is mature.
To enhance germination, separate the mature seeds from the spadix. This is to lessen the chance of disease contamination from decaying fruit. Both Dieffenbachia and Aglaonema have large seeds, and the fleshy seed covering should be removed from the red, berry-like fruit before planting the seed. Keep cleaned seeds moist and plant them before they become dry.
High germination is achieved if seed are sown on top of a moist potting medium containing up to 50 percent peat moss by volume, and covered with plastic to prevent drying. Aroid seed begin to grow as soon as they are sown. The medium should be kept at a minimum of 70°F. Seedlings should be transferred to individual pots after the first true leaves are produced. Most aroid seedlings require 1 year of growth before they are large enough to be evaluated.
Henny, Richard J. 2001. Tips on Regulating Growth of Floriculture Crops. Foliage Plants Editor: Michelle, Gaston Columbus, Ohio: Ohio Florists Association, pp. 83-87.
Henny, R.J. 1988. Ornamental aroids: culture and breeding. In J. Janick (editor), Horticultural Reviews Vol. X., Timber Press, Portland, Or. Inc. p. 1-33.
Henny, R.J.and J Chen. 2008.New Plant Introductions Drive Markets https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP357.
Henny, R.J. and J. Chen 2003. Foliage plant cultivar development. Plant Breeding Reviews 23:245-290.
Henny, R.J., D.J. Norman, and J. Chen. 2004. Progress in ornamental aroid breeding research. Annals of the Missouri Botanical Garden 91:465-473.
Release Date:July 5, 2018
Reviewed At:December 10, 2021
- DOI: 10.32473/edis-ep382-2009
- Critical Issue: 1. Agricultural and Horticultural Enterprises
This document is ENH1117, one of a series of the Environmental Horticulture Department, UF/IFAS Extension. Original publication date May 2009. Revised March 2015. Visit the EDIS website at https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu. for the currently supported version of this publication.
J. Chen and R.J. Henny, professors, and T. Mellich, biologist; UF/IFAS Mid-Florida Research and Education Center, Apopka, Florida.
The Simple Way to Get More Shoots of Aglaonema Plant
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