Anubias is an attractive and popular aquarium plant known for its hardy nature and dramatic arrow-shaped leaves. While relatively slow growing over time anubias can reach impressive heights under optimal conditions. But what determines how tall your anubis plant will get? Let’s explore the key factors that affect the maximum height of this aquatic beauty.
Lighting Conditions Drive Anubias Growth
One of the most critical elements influencing anubias height is lighting. Anubias thrives in low to moderate light environments. Low light will result in slower, more compact growth. Brighter light fuels faster growth and taller plants.
When lighting is too intense, anubias growth may become leggy and weak Recommended intensity is 0.5-2 watts per gallon depending on other factors Situate lights 12-18 inches above plants.
Inadequate lighting will stunt growth. Monitor plant size and increase lighting gradually if desired height isn’t reached
Nutrient Levels Influence Height Potential
While anubias is undemanding, adequate nutrition is needed to support lush growth. Important nutrients include:
- Nitrogen for healthy leaves
- Phosphorus for root/rhizome growth
- Potassium for disease resistance
- Iron, magnesium and other traces
Use aquatic plant fertilizer per label directions to provide balanced nutrition without excess. Lean dosing is required, as anubias is sensitive to over-fertilization.
Adding CO2 will also accelerate growth. Limit or cease fertilization 2-4 weeks annually to control height.
Ideal Water Parameters Maximize Growth
Anubias thrives when water quality is pristine. Target these conditions:
- Temperature of 72-82°F
- pH between 6.5-7.5
- Soft to moderately hard water
- Minimal minerals/toxins
Test and adjust as needed to stay in ideal ranges. Perform 20-30% water changes weekly and use treatments to remove chlorine/chloramine. Adequate water flow is also essential.
Tank Size and Depth Impact Height
Allowing adequate space for root development results in taller anubias plants. Choose at least a 10-15 gallon tank for medium varieties. Larger tanks permit fuller growth.
Plant anubias with the rhizome above substrate. Burying it may lead to rot and restrict maturity. Place in midground areas for best height.
Growing Conditions Affect Height Potential
Beyond water parameters, growing conditions play a key role. Follow these tips:
- Quarantine new plants before adding to tank
- Remove decaying plant matter quickly
- Control algae to prevent blocked light
- Prune old leaves to encourage new growth
- Divide congested plants and re-plant the healthiest pieces
Optimizing conditions reduces stress and distractions so anubias can achieve its full height.
Trimming Can Restrict Height
To control rapid upward growth, trim leggy stems above a node. Remove yellowing or damaged leaves at the base. Limit trimming to 1-2 times annually as it stresses plants.
Targeted trimming balances height with a compact, bushy appearance. Remove clippings to avoid contaminating tank water.
Maximum Height Varies by Variety
Larger anubias varieties can achieve heights over 12 inches when mature. Smaller types may max out under 6 inches.
Slow-growing petite and nana species stay compact. Larger barteri, coffeefolia and other robust varieties grow quite tall under ideal conditions.
Troubleshooting Stunted Anubias Growth
If your anubias plants are staying compact despite ideal conditions, try these troubleshooting tips:
- Increase light intensity gradually
- Supplement with aquarium fertilizer
- Address low CO2 levels
- Test for and alter water parameters
- Treat disease or algae/fungus issues
- Ensure adequate water circulation
- Change location to maximize light exposure
Be Patient!
Anubias is among the slowest-growing aquarium plants. Even in great conditions, it may take many months to reach maximum height. Allow at least 6-12 months for less than 6 inches of growth.
Have realistic expectations and enjoy watching your anubias very gradually reach its full height potential. The wait is worth it for the dramatic features of a mature, thriving anubias plant.
Frequently Asked Questions About Anubias Height
How long until my anubias plant is fully grown?
It usually takes 6-18 months for anubias varieties to fully mature and reach maximum size. Growth rate depends on specific variety and growing conditions.
Should I trim my anubias to limit height?
Occasional trimming of leggy stems can balance height with fullness. But avoid over-trimming, as it will stunt growth.
Why is my anubias staying small and compact?
Lack of light, nutrients or optimal water parameters are common reasons anubias won’t grow taller. Troubleshoot conditions and adjust as needed.
Is it better to start with small or large anubias varieties?
Large-leaved varieties like barteri offer dramatic impact faster. But small types like nana stay in scale longer in smaller tanks. Choose based on preferences.
Can I replant trimming from my anubias to start new plants?
Yes! Cuttings with at least one leaf and node can be replanted to propagate your anubias.
With its statuesque stature and bold foliage, a tall, healthy anubias plant makes a stunning focal point in any freshwater aquarium. Follow this guide to understand and provide what your anubias needs to achieve its maximum height and elegance.
How to grow Anubias species
Anubias have been a long staple in the aquarium hobby. This shade loving genus is named after the Egyptian god Anubis, lord of the underworld/shadowlands. Anubias originate from Africa – and there are many different species and varietals in cultivation.
Anubias nana petite – a smaller varietal of Anubias, attached to driftwood here in the center. Even though this tank does not run on CO2 injection it grows well. It is an immensely popular plant in the aquarium hobby due to its relative ease of growing.
Larger species include Anubias gigantea, Anubias afzelii, Anubias heterophylla, Anubias gracilis. These have leafs that are as long as the palm of the hand. Often larger species may be sold as smaller, baby specimens, so take note if your intention is to get a smaller plant.
Medium sized Anubias include Anubias barteria nana and its many variants and Anubias coffeefolia. Their leaves reach around 8 – 10cm in length when fully grown.
Smaller Anubias species include Anubias nana petite & its variants, Anubias Stardust; these have leaves around 1.5 – 2 cm long, around the size of a smaller thumbnail.
The smallest Anubias species include Anubias nana Pangolino”, Anubias Chilli; these have leaf sizes around 1cm to 2cm but are more narrow compared to Anubias petite.
Varigated varietals exist for most sizes. Popular ones on the market are Anubias white, Anubias Pinto and Anubias petite white.
Anubias nana petite maintains a small, neat form. These bunch are grown in a non CO2 injected tank and are a tad smaller than the ones grown with CO2 injection.
Anubias white petite is a variegated white Anubias that stays very small. Its rarity means that it can be difficult to find and expensive to purchase. At 2hr Aquarist we often grown Anubias planted directly on the aquasoil substrate. It is a popular myth amongst beginners that Anubias, Java fern and Bucephalandra do not grow well planted in the substrate – the opposite is true – they actually grow better planted in soil than not. However, the rhizome should not be buried deep. In aquasoils, where the top layers are loose, burying the rhizome slightly to keep it in place is fine.
Anubias species are all generally very hardy plants that are easy to grow in the aquarium – they can acclimatize to a large range of water parameters and are not demanding in terms of light as they can be grown in shade. However, to grow them well long term in good form, algae free, still requires us to fulfil their basic needs.
Smaller Anubias species tend to be more delicate, and variegated ones even more so.
As with most aquatic plants, they prefer clean, filtered water with low organic waste levels – this keeps them algae free. They grow well attached to hardscape and do not have to be planted on the substrate. If planted on the substrate, their rhizomes should not be buried, as this causes it to rot. They root deeply into the substrate over time which can make moving them troublesome. Keeping them attached to hardscape allows easy re-positioning.
Anubias barteri nana growing emersed in soil. They grow very well in soil/aquasoil as long as the rhizome is not buried. They take in nutrients through their roots well just like most other plants.
Though they can grow in tanks without CO2 injection, CO2 injection gives more robust, algae-resistant plants and increase growth rates significantly. Their nutrient requirements are low as their growth rates is slow, however, to grow them well long term, they need a comprehensive nutrient regiment – premature deterioration of old leaves and yellowing/off colored leaves can be a sign of a lack of nutrients.
They are vulnerable to BBA if hit by too strong direct flow, so keep them away from the direct vicinity of the filter output. Contrary to popular belief, they can be grown in very bright light – this however, will accelerate their growth rates and expose any weakness in their nutrient access. Though they can be attached to hardscape, they grow very well with their roots in substrate/soil as they can take in nutrients through that route as well. When planting them in soil, keep the rhizome above the substrate line – burying the rhizome can lead to rot.
Anubias are popular among the aquascaping crowd as they grow well on wood and blends well with mosses and other epiphytes.
- Clean water and long term stable parameters.
- Higher light levels give faster growth but can lead to increased algae presence. Growing the plants in lower light tends to be a more stable approach.
- Anubias will grow in as little light as 10 umols of PAR. Use them in shade areas of the tank where other plants do not grow well.
- Comprehensive water column nutrient availability necessary for long term health and robust plants/optimal form. It takes months for Anubias species to show deficiencies in slow growing tanks.
Anubias are great for low-tech (non-CO2 injected) setups such as this. They can be attached to hardscape flexibly and are also shade tolerant.
Often the rhizome will naturally sprout separate growth heads after some time and these can be cut from the main rhizome once they reach suitable size.
The rhizome can also be divided using a sharp blade once it reaches a suitable length. Healthy specimens can be divided more finely while unhealthy plants can disintegrate. You can use a blade or scissors to cut a longer rhizome into smaller pieces. Each piece will grow into a new plant. For a healthy rhizome of Anubias barteri nana, a longer rhizome can be divided into 4-5cm segments; each segment should have a couple of leaves. For a healthy sample of Anubias nana petite, a longer rhizome can be divided into 2-3cm segments; each segment should have at least a couple of leaves.