Barbara Karst bougainvillea is a popular tropical flowering plant known for its colorful red bracts. However, ants can become a nuisance if they start infesting the plant. Ants are attracted to the sweet nectar from the bougainvillea flowers. They may also protect and farm other sap-sucking insects like aphids or scales that can damage the plant. Getting rid of ants on Barbara Karst bougainvillea requires using a combination of methods to deter and eliminate them.
Why Ants Are Drawn to Bougainvillea
Ants are opportunistic insects and get attracted to plants for two main reasons:
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They feed on the sugary sap or nectar secreted by flowers and stems This provides them energy
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They protect and “farm” other insects like aphids and scales that excrete honeydew, another sweet substance ants love.
Keeping the bougainvillea plant clean and free of sap honeydew and debris removes incentives for ants to visit.
Natural Ways to Control Ants on Bougainvillea
Start with these low-impact, non-chemical methods to get rid of ants on bougainvillea:
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Prune away any dead leaves, flowers, and branches to eliminate decaying plant matter ants are attracted to.
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Use a strong stream of water to wash away ants and honeydew deposits. Repeat as needed.
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Sprinkle cinnamon, coffee grounds, or crushed eggshells around the base of the plant as a deterrent. Ants dislike crossing these.
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Spray neem oil on the plant as it repels and controls ants, aphids, scales, and other sap-sucking insects.
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Place sticky barriers like Tanglefoot around the stems to prevent ants from climbing up.
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Introduce beneficial predatory insects like ladybugs or lacewings to naturally control aphids and other pests ants protect.
Chemical Ant Treatments for Bougainvillea Infestations
For stubborn ant infestations, you may need to use chemical treatments. Here are some effective options:
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Insecticidal soaps – Soap solutions disrupt the waxy coating on ant bodies, causing dehydration and death. Spray directly on ants.
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Boric acid – This slow-acting bait kills ants that ingest it. Place it in areas of high ant traffic.
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Ant baits – Contain borax, pyrethroids, or other insecticides. Safely kill the entire colony as worker ants carry bait back to the nest.
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Synthetic insecticides – Products containing chemicals like bifenthrin or permethrin can control heavy infestations. Use as a last resort and follow label directions carefully.
Tips to Prevent Ants on Bougainvillea
Prevention is key to avoid ant issues in the first place:
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Remove other ant attractions like outdoor food sources, standing water, etc.
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Ensure the plant has proper sunlight, water, and fertilizer to stay healthy and discourage sap-sucking insect pests.
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Prune the bougainvillea regularly to remove excess growth and openings where ants can enter.
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Fill any cracks or crevices in walls, soil, or pots near the plant so ants have fewer entry points.
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Apply a perimeter treatment around pots or garden beds using a product like diatomaceous earth or insecticidal dust to deter ants.
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Check the plant frequently for signs of ants, aphids, or other pests and take action at first sightings before they multiply.
What Do I Do About Ants by My Plants?
From a Correspondent:
Sometime last summer, I began to notice ants in one or two of our garden beds. I was hoping the winter would rid me of them, but no such luck — this year, they’re back with a vengeance. How can I safely get rid of ants without damaging vegetables or using chemical pesticides?
Gratefully,An Infested Midwestern Gardener
The good news is that you are, presumably, both larger and more intelligent than most varieties of ants. I.e., you have them beat in the brawn and brain departments. The bad news is that, according to eminent biologists, there are about twenty quadrillion ants on Earth (and only eight billion humans).
So before commencing a war with a race that outnumbers us 2.5 million to one, let us study on whether you might be able to make peace with the little fellas instead.
Consider: Some bugs are generally bad for the garden — certain sorts of beetles, weevils, aphids, and whatnot. Other bugs are beneficial — butterflies and bees and ladybugs, for instance. Many people, not unreasonably, include ants in the beneficial column.
Ants aerate the soil. (Recall the fascinating network of tunnels in the ant farm you had in third grade.) This helps oxygen, water, and nutrients reach the roots of plants. And ants carry organic matter through their tunnels, some of which decomposes and creates fertilizer. Ants also serve as effective predators, consuming the larvae of various of the bad bugs. Ants can also aid in pollination.
But here’s where things get a bit complicated. One of the bad bugs we’d mentioned is the aphid, a small insect, which sucks liquids out of plants. And ants and aphids have a curious relationship. Some ants like to consume the sweet liquid waste that aphids excrete. In exchange, ants protect aphids from certain predators. Ants even seem to help mitigate the effects of fungal outbreaks (lethal to aphids) by carrying dead, infected aphids away from the healthy ones. You’ll often hear it said that ants “farm” aphids. This may be a bit of anthropomorphic romanticism, but it’s not entirely inaccurate. (Ponder on this the next time someone tells you that animal husbandry is “unnatural.”) Given this symbiotic relationship, you may find that ants and aphids are a bit of a package deal in your garden, and you definitely don’t want aphids.
Also, it is important to identify the type of ant colony you’re dealing with. The common black ant and the yellow meadow ant, for instance, tend to reside in the beneficial column. Whereas carpenter ants, fire ants, and (not surprisingly) leafcutter ants do not. Of course, the quantity matters as well: you said they are “back with a vengeance” — if that means they’ve exhibited a bit of stubborn resilience and increased in number despite the winter, don’t be surprised or necessarily dismayed. Ants can live off of stored fat during the winter, often going into a state of diapause (you don’t get to twenty quadrillion by keeling over every time there’s a cold snap). But if you mean they’ve completely overrun your garden, or if you mean they are of a stinging variety (such as fire ants) and are taking vengeance on you personally, then there is probably more cause for action.
Anyway, the point is that discerning this matter requires some nuance. Given their vast numbers throughout our planet, ants can be hard to get rid of, and you may or may not even want to. It is an oversimplification to say “ants are bad” or “ants are good” for the garden: more details are needed to make the assessment. In fact, some people intentionally introduce ants into their gardens for the benefits mentioned above. So do your homework before doing anything drastic.
But if you’ve gone through all that and still assess that it’s time to take up arms, here are some things you can try:
- If you can find visible ant hills, pour a pot or kettle of boiling water on them. Go back to the kitchen, boil another pot, and repeat. Do this for a few days. Water on its own won’t do much damage (see “rain”), but boiling water will.
- Citrus oils are destructive to ants, as is vinegar. You may find one or the other effective, but if you’re short on time you might as well combine them for a double-pronged attack. Peel some oranges and put the peels in a blender. Add white vinegar, roughly one part orange peel to three parts vingar, and blend thoroughly. Douse ant hills and visible trails with the mixture. Reward your militaristic prowess by eating the oranges.
- Mix ground cinnamon and cayenne pepper, and sprinkle generously around visible colonies and affected plants. The mixture is not lethal, but ants dislike the smell and may thus decide to relocate to less fragrant locales. You can also try this same technique with coffee grounds, which may have other benefits for your garden as well.
- Engage reinforcements: beneficial nematodes can aid in your battle. These small roundworms enter the digestive tract of ants and therein release lethal bacteria, killing ants (and many other pests!) within a day or two of ingestion. Pick some up at your preferred local garden center or farm supply store. They can be sensitive to sunlight and high temperatures, so schedule Operation Nematode for dawn or dusk or a cool, overcast day. Then mix with water per the directions on the package, connect to a pump sprayer or garden hose, and fire at will.
In summary, determine with nuanced consideration whether your hexapod cohabitants are friend or foe. If foe, pick one of the above methods, or all of them, and have at it.
If friend, be glad of the newfound relationship. Instead of concocting pesticides, use your boiling water, orange peels, and cinnamon (and a bit of sugar) to brew a refreshing summer tea. Serve iced. Do not add nematodes.
How to Remove Ants from Potted Plants
FAQ
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When to plant Barbara karst bougainvillea?
Choosing the Right Time and Location: The best time to plant your Barbara Karst Bougainvillea is in spring or early summer after the danger of frost has passed. Select a location that receives full sun, ideally at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Bougainvillea thrives in warm temperatures. Ensure the planting site has well-draining soil.
How much water does Barbara karst bougainvillea need?
Barbara Karst Bougainvillea needs 0.8 cups of water every 9 days when it doesn’t get direct sunlight and is potted in a 5.0″ pot. Use our water calculator to personalize watering recommendations to your environment or download Greg for more advanced recommendations for all of your plants. Does your plant get direct sunlight?
How do you care for Barbara karst bougainvillea?
Barbara Karst Bougainvillea is a fast growing plant and may deplete the nutrients in its soil over time. Replenish them with a gentle organic fertilizer or compost every 1-2 months depending on your location and season. Fertilize more often during the growing season and in warmer and brighter climates.
Why does my Barbara karst bougainvillea lose its leaves?
There are times when my Barbara Karst Bougainvillea loses its leaves, particularly if it gets too cold. It’s a semi-deciduous plant, which means it can shed its leaves in response to stress, like a drop in temperature or insufficient water. However, once the conditions improve, it usually bounces back with new growth.