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How to Get Rid of Aphids on Alfalfa Plant

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Aphids are common and destructive pests that can infest alfalfa plants. These small sap-sucking insects can quickly multiply and spread stunting plant growth and reducing yields. As an alfalfa grower, it is crucial to control aphid populations before they get out of hand. The good news is there are several effective, eco-friendly methods to get rid of aphids on your alfalfa crop.

Identify the Aphid Species

The first step is identifying which aphid species you are dealing with The most common aphids found on alfalfa plants include

  • Pea aphid – Green yellow or pink in color with dark bands on antennae. Most common in spring.

  • Blue alfalfa aphid – Bluish-green body color with uniformly dark antennae. Prefers cool weather.

  • Spotted alfalfa aphid – Pale yellow with black spots on abdomen. Thrives in hot weather.

  • Cowpea aphid – Shiny black body with white antennae bases. More active in fall.

Proper identification allows you to assess the potential damage and choose the best control methods for that particular aphid. For example, the spotted alfalfa aphid injects toxins while feeding, so even a small number can cause significant harm.

Monitor Aphid Populations

Scout your alfalfa fields at least once a week, especially during the spring and early summer when aphids are most active. Check 30 random stems across the field, counting the aphids on each. Or take 20 sweep net samples and count the average number of aphids per sweep.

For large fields, sample multiple sections to get an accurate assessment. Compare your counts to treatment thresholds based on alfalfa growth stage and aphid species. Immature plants have lower thresholds than mature stands.

Remove Aphids Manually

For light infestations, manually removing aphids can help reduce their numbers. Inspect plants closely and simply pinch, wipe, or spray aphids off with a strong stream of water. Focus on the undersides of leaves and other hidden areas. Regular manual removal prevents populations from rapidly escalating.

Use Resistant Varieties

Select alfalfa varieties with genetic resistance against the aphid species in your area. While no variety is 100% aphid-proof, resistant cultivars sustain less feeding damage and experience smaller aphid populations. Rotate resistant and susceptible varieties to prevent aphids from overcoming resistances.

Apply Organic Insecticides

When aphid populations exceed thresholds, apply OMRI-listed organic insecticides labeled for alfalfa. Products derived from neem oil or pyrethrins provide short-term control when applied to both upper and lower leaf surfaces. Always follow label instructions for mixing and application. Repeat applications may be needed.

Release Beneficial Insects

Ladybugs, lacewings, syrphid flies, and tiny parasitic wasps all feed on and parasitize aphids. Releasing purchased beneficials or attracting wild populations with companion plants like dill and clover can effectively control aphids. A healthy community of predators and parasites provides free, natural aphid control all season long.

Use Repellent Plants

Interplant alfalfa with marigolds, chives, or mints, which release airborne chemicals that repel aphids. You can also plant tiny flowers near alfalfa to draw in beneficial insects. These companion plants disguise the smell of your main crop and create an inhospitable environment for aphids.

Apply Botanical Sprays

Botanical insecticides made from neem oil, garlic, or hot peppers can deter and kill aphids through odor, taste, and toxicity. Mixaccording to label directions and coat all plant surfaces, including the undersides of leaves. Because they break down quickly, reapply every 5-7 days while aphids are present.

Use Row Covers

Floating row covers act as a physical barrier preventing aphids from reaching your crop. Drape the lightweight fabric over plants soon after emergence and leave edges buried. Ventilate on hot days. Remove rows covers when plants flower to allow pollination.

Control Ants

Ants farm aphid colonies for their sugary honeydew secretions. Eliminating ants by controlling weeds, applying sticky barriers, or sprinkling diatomaceous earth around plants can reduce aphid numbers. Without ant caretakers, aphid colonies decline rapidly.

Maintain Plant Health

Vigorously growing, healthy alfalfa better withstands aphid damage. Use proper plant spacing, weed control, irrigation, and fertilization to optimize growth. Prevent plant stress and malnutrition which makes alfalfa more vulnerable. Scout regularly for early detection.

Clean Up Crop Residue

After harvest, shred and incorporate alfalfa residues into the soil. Destroying post-harvest debris eliminates places where overwintering aphid eggs and larvae can hide. Proper sanitation limits early season populations.

Timely Harvest

Cutting alfalfa early to make hay or silage can curtail existing aphid infestations. Harvest schedules already synchronized with peak plant nutrition often coincide with economic aphid levels. Timely cutting provides a clean slate for the next alfalfa growth.

Use Reflective Mulches

Spreading shiny silver mulch between alfalfa rows confused airborne aphids seeking landing sites. The reflected light resembles water, deterring aphids from settling on plants. Reflective plastic mulches also heat up the planting zone, creating an unfavorable microclimate for aphids.

Implementing a combination of cultural, mechanical, biological, and organic control methods is the best way to protect your alfalfa plants from aphid attack. An integrated pest management approach utilizes minimal insecticide intervention only when absolutely needed to keep your fields and crops healthy and productive. With diligent monitoring and a multi-tactic defense, you can minimize aphid damage and grow robust, high-yielding alfalfa.

how to get rid of aphids on alfalfa plant

Scouting and Thresholds for Aphids

Although aphids are considered secondary pests in alfalfa, sometimes they surpass treatment guidelines (Table 2). The decision to treat for aphids in alfalfa can be difficult, but can only be made with regular visits. Scouting for aphids in alfalfa is relatively easy, and can be estimated by sweep netting or direct stem count. Fields should be scouted weekly, especially in the spring and early summer. Count aphids on at least 30 stems or take at least 20 sweeps per field, and average the number of aphids per stem or per sweep. For large fields, consider sampling multiple areas to ensure coverage.

Table 2. Treatment guidlines for aphids in alfalfa

Growth Stage PA* CA* BAA* SAA*
Seedling 5 5 1 1
<10" 40 40 10 10
10-20″ 75 75 30 30
>20″ 100 100 50 100

* PA – pea aphid, CA – cowpea aphid, BAA – blue alfalfa aphid, SAA – spotted alfalfa aphid.

Besides cost, there are two negative consequences for the overuse of insecticides on aphids: resurgence and resistance. Resurgence happens as a result of killing the primary insect pest (e.g., alfalfa weevil) along with the biological control agents in the field. Aphids on the undersides of leaves and lower stems will survive and the colony thrives without predators or other competition. Historically, aphids can build up genetic resistance to insecticides when complete coverage is not achieved over multiple applications. Any aphid survivors and their offspring are considered genetically resistant to that class of insecticides at any dosage. Because aphids have multiple generations with clonal reproduction, genetic resistance can build up faster than in other insects. Therefore, insecticides should only be applied if they exceed treatment guidelines (Table 2).

There are options to consider before using insecticides. Biological control, the use of resistant cultivars, and harvesting will often minimize aphids to tolerable levels in most cases. Fortunately, there are many different natural enemies to aphids (Figs. 17-20). For those fields with consistent aphids, consider cultivars with at least moderate resistance to pea aphid. Several products are registered in Utah for aphid contol in alfalfa: chlorpyrifos, cyfluthrin, gamma-cyhalothrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, and zeta-cypermethrin. Use sufficient volume and pressure to ensure contact with aphids on the lower parts of the plant. Make insecticide applications during the early morning or late evening to avoid killing foraging bees.

1Drawings and s courtesy of Erin W. Hodgson, Utah State University Extension (www.utahpests.usu.edu/insects).

2s courtesy of Jack Kelly Clark, University of Davis Statewide IPM Project, 2000 (www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/crops-agriculture.html).

3s courtesy of Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University Extension (www.ipms.org).

4s courtesy of Handbook of Forage and Rangeland Insects, Entomological Society of America (www.entsoc.org).

5s courtesy of University of Idaho Extension (info.ag.uidaho.edu/keys/plates/plate16.htm).

Published July 2007 Utah State University Extension Peer-reviewed fact sheet

Erin W. Hodgson, Extension Entomology Specialist

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  • Aphids are soft-bodied insects that remove plant sap from stems and leaves.
  • Heavy infestations can reduce plant vigor, and cause leaves to wilt, curl or become mottled.
  • Some aphids can vector disease or plant toxins while feeding, and cause plants to decrease in productivity.
  • Aphid-resistant cultivars and natural enemies can help reduce the negative effects of aphids in alfalfa.

Aphids belong in the order Hemiptera and family Aphididae. Aphids are common insects in field and forage crops, with at least six kinds in Utah alfalfa (Table 1). Aphids can be distinguished from other insects in alfalfa with a hand lens. In general, aphids are soft-bodied and pear-shaped, with adults ranging from 1/16 – 1/4″ in length. Adults have a pair of long antennae, a pair of cornicles (that resemble tailpipes) towards the end of the abdomen and a cauda at the tip of the abdomen (Fig. 1). The antennae aid in finding suitable host plants and the cornicles release alarm pheromones to alert the colony of predators.

Aphids have piercing sucking mouthparts and remove phloem or plant sap juices with a flexible stylet (Fig. 1). Wingless aphids are not very mobile insects, and tend to stay on one plant. As a result, some plants can become heavily infested as the colony grows over time. Winged aphids locate potential hosts by using visual cues, and will often quickly probe plant tissue before settling to feed. As aphids pierce plant tissue, the stylets pick up small virus particles. Aphids can then vector, or transmit, plant diseases persistently or non-persistently.

Persistently transmitted viruses are incorporated into the salivary glands and can be passed on for the life of the aphid. Non-persistent diseases, sometimes called “dirty needle diseases,” are only passed on to the next plant while probing. Alfalfa plants with a large colony of aphids will often look chlorotic or wilted. Sometimes, infected plants will die or become severely stunted. Aphids that vector disease become economically important in agriculture and horticulture because they can significantly reduce quality and yield.

Table 1. Common aphids in Utah alfalfa

Common Name Scientific Name Damage Period: Color Description
Alfalfa aphid Macrosiphyum creelii June – August; pale green in color with dusky cornicles
Blue alfalfa aphid Acyrthosiphon kondoi March – June; blue in color with black cornicles
Cowpea aphid Aphis craccivora April – November; shiny black in color with black cornicles
Pea aphid Acyrthosiphon pisum April – November; pale green or pink in color with dark cornicles
Potato aphid Macrosiphym euphorbiae May – October; pale green in color with dusky cornicles
Spotted alfalfa aphid Therioaphis maculata May – October; pale yellow in color with dark spots on the abdomen and short cornicles

Aphids are complex insects that evolve closely with plants. Adults can display two general body forms: winged and wingless (Fig. 2). Termites and ants also display similar variability in body forms. Typically wingless aphids are produced and quickly build up the colony by producing many offspring. Periodically, winged forms are produced to find new host plants. Although winged aphids are not great fliers, they can move long distance through air currents.

Aphids have a complicated life cycle made up of asexual and sexual reproduction with some species having host plant alternation (Fig. 3). In colder climates, aphids overwinter as eggs on woody hosts. Eggs hatch with bud burst and winged forms eventually move to perennial or annual plants to take advantage of ample nutrients. During the summer, females give live birth to clones through parthenogenisis. Asexual cloning reduces the overall development time and dramatically increases the number of multiple generations per year. Some aphids can produce more than 15 generations in a year if temperatures are moderate (65-85˚F).

The pea aphid, Acyrthosiphon pisum, is found throughout North America (Fig. 6), and is the most common aphid in Utah alfalfa. Adults are ¼″ in length, and body color ranges from light green to yellow, or pale pink (Figs. 4 and 5). In addition to their large size, pea aphids can be distinguished from other aphids by the dark bands of color on the antennae (Fig. 10). Pea aphids are in alfalfa the entire summer, but reproduction is dramatically slowed down when temperatures exceed 90˚F. Colonies prefer to feed on stems and newly expanding leaves. Pea aphids may turn leaves yellow and stunt overall plant growth when present in moderate numbers (50-100/stem).

Although the blue alfalfa aphid, Acyrthosiphon kondoi, is found in Utah alfalfa and much of the United States (Fig. 7), it is less common than the pea aphid. Often blue alfalfa aphids and pea aphids are intermingled on plant stems, but can be distinguished with a few common characters. Adults are 3/16″ in length and bluish-green in color (Fig. 8). Blue alfalfa aphids can be dull or waxy and have uniformly dark antennae, compared to shiny pea aphids with dark antennal bands (Fig. 9). Blue alfalfa aphids are most productive during spring and early summer due to mild conditions; these aphids begin to decline when temperatures exceed 90˚F. Colonies prefer to cluster and feed on newly expanding leaves, but will move down to stems as the leaves mature and become crowded. Heavy infestations cause leaf crinkling, stunting, and discoloration.

The spotted alfalfa aphid, Therioaphis maculata, is found throughout the United States and Mexico and is occasionally found in Utah alfalfa (Fig. 13). The spotted alfalfa aphid is smaller than most aphids in alfalfa, reaching ⅛″ in length. This aphid is also distinguished because it is pale yellow with dark spots covering the abdomen (Figs. 11 and 12). Unlike the pea aphid or blue alfalfa aphid, the spotted alfalfa aphid can successfully reproduce in warm temperatures (> 90˚F). Colonies prefer to feed on the lower portions of alfalfa, including stems, petioles and leaves. Spotted alfalfa aphids transmit a plant toxin while feeding and can cause early leaf drop, distinctive vein-banding or chlorosis. In addition, this aphid produces large amounts of sugary honeydew that promote mold on leaves.

The cowpea aphid, Aphis craccivora, is common throughout the United States and Mexico and is becoming more common in Utah alfalfa (Fig. 16). This small aphid is less than ⅛″ in length, and is easily distinguished from other aphids in alfalfa because adults are shiny black and nymphs are dull grey (Figs. 14 and 15). The first half of cowpea aphid antennae are white, but gradually darken towards the tip, and the legs are white with dark “feet.” Colonies prefer feeding on newly expanding leaves, but cluster on leaves, blooms and stems. These aphids are most successful during early spring or late fall, and begin to decline when temperatures exceed 75˚F. Cowpea aphids transmit a plant toxin while feeding; moderate infestations can cause wilting and discoloration, and heavy infestations (>100/stem) can cause severe stunting, dieback or death.

Foolproof Aphid Control and Prevention

FAQ

How do I get rid of aphids ASAP?

The most organic method of control, and often a quite effective one, is the spray of water. Soapy water can help kill the aphids, as it sounds like you know, but a particularly strong jet of water will dislodge/kill most of them physically, as well.

What is the threshold for aphids in alfalfa?

No thresholds are established for aphids on seedling alfalfa; watch for plant damage.

What is the best spray to kill aphids on plants?

Isopropyl alcohol (also called isopropanol or rubbing alcohol) works fine and is easy to find, but be sure it doesn’t have additives. Ethanol (grain alcohol) seems to work best. Alcohol usually comes in 70 percent strength in stores (or 95 percent strength purchased commercially).

What are the pink aphids in alfalfa?

Pea aphids are pale green or occasionally pink with very long legs and black tipped cornicles. This species resembles the blue alfalfa aphid but has antennae with narrow dark bands on each segment. Adults are about 2 mm (<1/8 inch) long.

What is the best aphid control for alfalfa?

Several products are registered in Iowa for aphid control in alfalfa: beta-cyfluthrin, chlorpyrifos, cyfluthrin, gamma-cyhalothrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, methomyl, permethrin, pymetrozine, and zeta-cypermethrin. Use sufficient volume and pressure to ensure contact with aphids on the lower parts of the plant. Table 2.

How do you identify aphids in alfalfa?

Learning to distinguish aphids in alfalfa takes a little practice, but is worth knowing for making sound treatment decisions. In general, aphids are soft-bodied and pear-shaped insects with walking legs. The main diagnostic feature of aphids is a pair of cornicles (tailpipes) on the tip of the abdomen.

Do aphids live in alfalfa?

Aphids are common insects to see in field crops, especially in alfalfa. In Iowa, there are at least four aphid species that can persist on alfalfa. A recent report of pea aphids near Clarion, IA from field agronomist Angie Rieck-Hinz prompted me to write this article.

How do you get rid of aphids in a house?

Inspect new plants —Prevent bringing aphids into the house by checking any plant you bring inside. You should inspect plants you buy and houseplants that grow outdoors in the summer. Wipe plant foliage in winter —Try and get rid of aphid eggs in the dormant period by wiping plant leaves.

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