As a longtime elderberry grower, I’ve dealt with many pests trying to munch on my beloved shrubs. But few bugs drive me as crazy as the dreaded crusader bug These crawling invaders swarm new growth, leaving distorted leaves and stunted plants in their wake If you’ve noticed damage to your American elderberry from crusader bugs, don’t surrender! Here’s how to fight back and reclaim your shrub from these pesky intruders.
What are Crusader Bugs and Why Attack Elderberry?
Crusader bugs (Murgantia histrionica) are small bright red and black insects in the stink bug family. They pierce plant tissues with sharp mouthparts injecting enzymes that break down cells for feeding. This damages leaves and shoots, causing curling, yellowing, wilting, and dieback. Young shrubs are especially vulnerable.
Native to tropical areas, crusader bugs spread north as temperatures warmed. They thrive in gardens and farms, targeting fruit crops, ornamentals, and native plants like elderberry. The bugs seem particularly attracted to elderberry’s lush new growth in spring and early summer.
Identifying Crusader Bug Infestations
Check emerging leaves and tender shoots starting in early spring. Look for:
- Black and red nymphs or adults crawling on foliage
- Curled, distorted, yellowing leaves with dried edges
- Stunted branch tips and dieback on new growth
- Buildup of shed skins, dark spots, or black mold on damaged tissue
Catch infestations early before populations explode and cause extensive injury. Severely affected leaves and shoots often will not recover.
Organic Ways to Eliminate Crusader Bugs
If you spot these pests on your elderberry, take action promptly using eco-friendly methods:
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Knock off bugs with jets of water – A forceful spray can dislodge many bugs. Repeat often to disturb them.
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Apply insecticidal soap – Spray bugs and leaves to penetrate waxy coating and dehydrate pests.
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Use neem oil – The azadirachtin in neem oil disrupts crusader bugs’ growth and feeding.
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Employ natural predators – Ladybugs, assassin bugs, birds eat crusader bugs. Attract them to your yard with plants.
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Set up traps – Capture bugs on sticky cards or in jars of soapy water placed in shrubs.
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Remove damaged growth – Prune off badly infested shoots and destroy them.
Be vigilant about treatments. Young nymphs are harder to control. Reapply remedies per label instructions until all life stages are gone.
Preventing Future Crusader Bug Attacks
To avoid continued problems with crusader bugs, implement these proactive measures:
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Inspect shrubs frequently, especially when new growth appears. Catch infestations early.
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Tolerate some damage on older leaves which helps minimize attacks on tender new growth.
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Remove and destroy any dropped leaves, dried berries, or debris around shrubs where bugs may lurk.
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Keep the area around shrubs free of weeds and tall grass which can harbor pests.
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Use reflective mulches early in the season to confuse bugs and limit access to plants.
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Wash bugs off shrubs with a strong jet of water in early spring to delay colonization.
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Cover young shrubs with floating row covers to form a barrier against invading pests.
With persistence and an integrated pest management approach, you can defend your American elderberries from destructive crusader bugs. Be vigilant about monitoring for early signs and take prompt action at the first sight of damage. In time, you’ll reclaim your shrubs for abundant flowering and fruiting rather than bug infestations.
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How do I get rid of aphids on my Elderberry?
I have two elderberries in the back yard, both are three years old. The tall one suddenly got lots of aphids for the first time. Thick clumps of dark purple aphids (with some ants and ladybugs associated). Maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of a cup of aphids total (50-75 stalks involved). I sprayed them off with the hose today, but I am very concerned. The smaller elderberry (a different variety) is just a few inches away (but has no aphids). and there are chokeberries, grapes, raspberries and blackberries all nearby with a small garden of tomatoes and eggplant.
1) Do some species of elderberry just get this (while some don’t)? How did this one tree get infested? This will help me decide what to do with the elderberry. It’s the first time we’ve ever had aphids in the garden. Do they just float in or get carried in on a bird? 2) If they can be eradicated, that’s one thing. But if they keep coming all summer, and just on the one plant, I’m happy to dig it out. Elderberries are good, but we haven’t had much of a yield anyway.
Donna Coffin, Extension Professor
It does look like you have Elder Aphids on your Elderberry plant. You did the correct control by washing off the pests with a strong spray of water. Our factsheet on Sucking Insects That Affect Vegetables includes the following :
Aphids: Often called plant lice, are small, soft-bodied insects. They range in color from black to green to yellow. Their numbers may greatly increase in a short time. They may cover the entire surface of a leaf or stem. They can be vectors of viruses. Encourage natural predators, such as ladybird beetles or lacewing larvae. Lacewing eggs can be purchased from seed companies. These eggs soon hatch and give good aphid control. Aphids can be washed off plants with a garden hose. Insecticidal soap or malathion can be used to control aphids.
To answer your specific questions: Their numbers may greatly increase in a short time and crowding stimulates the production of winged forms. They may cover the entire surface of a leaf or stem. In short, they drifted in and found a new home.
They can not be completely eradicated whether you remove the plant or not. A better choice would be to keep an eye out for more aphids and wash them off with water. If they get to be too much, then you could try some of the suggestions above.
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FAQ
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