“Either remove or cover plants that are most likely to be infested with psyllids during the winter to help eliminate their presence during the spring.”
This page is a general psyllid control guide. Using the products and methods suggested you will get control of psyllids infesting your property. Follow this DIY guide and use the recommended products and we guarantee complete control of present and future infestations of psyllids.
A tiny insect that homeowners may come across in their outdoor foliage is the psyllid, more commonly referred to as jumping plant lice. As suggested by their name this pest uses its powerful hind legs to jump and fly across short distances. To travel great distances the psyllid normally latches itself into the cracks and crevices of plant bark and leaves of field grown container plants or food such as pears.
Though this pest infestation is uncommon, it does not unnoticed throughout the United States due to the export of fruits and other plants from foreign countries. While there are 160 types of species the psyllid can range between two feeding types: monophagous meaning psyllids feast on one type of plants or oligophagous feeding on two or more related plant species. Regardless of their feeding style, the psyllid should be regarded as a serious pest since these pests possess toxic saliva and can form large groups to suck the nutrients out of desired plant tissue.
In small numbers, the psyllid does not pose much of a threat to gardens and foliage. However, in as little as three weeks this pest complete their life cycle and reproduce up to 800 eggs once per generation during the spring and summer months. Follow our DIY treatment guide to learn more about this sap-sucking pest and how to best remove them from your yard by using the recommended steps and products.
Before you can proceed with a treatment program, you will need to be certain that the pest infesting your property is a species of psyllid. Due to the numerous amount of species, this section will focus on the general characteristics of psyllids. Refer to the following characteristics to identify psyllids.
Use the and description above to properly identify psyllids on your property. If unsure then contact us with a photo or sample of your pest through phone, email, or in person at one of our store locations.
Once you have confirmed that you are facing an infestation of psyllids, you will then need to locate the areas and plant types they are infesting. Conducting an inspection will help to determine where to focus insecticide applications and the type of product to use. Careless identification can lead you to using the wrong treatment approach and product, which can cost you time and money.
Begin by examining aesthetic damages on the leaves, stems, and bark of crops (pears, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, peppers), ornamental plants, trees (acacia, eucalyptus, citrus), and shrubs (grecian laurel) within your garden and landscape.
As a warm dependent pests, the psyllid absorb the juices out of plant leaves with their piercing mouthparts then leave honeydew on which sooty black mold usually grows from throughout the spring and summer season. Depending on the species, they can also leave behind pale or white wax masses, pellets, strands, or coverings called lerps (made from wax and honeydew). From their feeding activity, this causes leaves to turn yellow, burn at top of leaves, holes to develop, curl, and die.
In the first half of spring and summer, psyllids deposit their eggs in the cracks and crevices of plant buds, between plant leaves, tips of new shoot growth, or along the leafs axis horizontal to the surface. During winter, psyllids overwinter in the cracks and crevices of tree bark and trunks causing slight discoloration or loss of leaves around the area.
Once you have confirmed where psyllids are active, you can carry on with insecticide applications. Remember to read the application sites on the product label and plants species to treat, and stay safe before handling or applying any pesticide material by wearing the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE).
To get rid of psyllids infestations, we recommend using a long-lasting liquid insecticide with a residual effect. For example, Supreme IT is a liquid repellent insecticide labeled to control over 70 types of insects, including Psyllids and the pests that may be attracted to their honeydew excrements such as ants. Apply Supreme IT only to non-bearing fruit and nut trees, shrubs, ornamental trees, flowers, foliage plants, and lawns. Once applied this product will last on treated areas for up to 90 days to continue to fight against psyllids and other pests.
For citrus tree infestations, apply insecticide products labeled to be used on these plant species such as ImidaPro 4SC. This product is a liquid systemic insecticide that will travel throughout the stem and leaves of the plant for complete protection against psyllids, potato psyllids, and Asian citrus psyllid. Apply only to potatoes and containerized citrus crops including calamondin, citrus citron, citrus hybrids (includes chironja, tangelo, and tangor), grapefruit, kumquat, lemon, lime, mandarin (tangerine), pummelo, orange (sweet and sour), satsuma mandarin, tangelo, white sapote (casimiroa spp.), and other cultivars and/or hybrids of these.
Only apply Supreme IT to the leaves, stems, and trunks of non-bearing fruit and nut trees, shrubs, ornamental trees, flowers, foliage plants, and lawns. Do not treat crops and plants with fruit or nuts.
Use a spray volume of 0.25 to 0.5 oz. of Supreme IT per gallon of water per 1,000 sq. ft. Determine how much Supreme IT to use by calculating the square footage of the treatment site. To do this, measure the length and width of the treatment site in feet and multiply together (length X width = square footage). To reach tree canopy heights you will want to use a hose-end sprayer.
Ensure that your water hose pump and the control valve on the hose-end sprayer is turned off. Attach the empty hose-end sprayer to the end of your garden hose. Remove the reservoir from the nozzle to pour in the required amount of Supreme IT. Fill the hose-end sprayer with enough water to treat the entire treatment site. Reattach the nozzle to the filled hose-end sprayer then turn the water hose on. Push forward the control valve switch on the hose-end sprayer until the material is released.
Spray the top and bottom of leaves until wet, but not to the point of excessive run-off. Retreat these sites when 90 days have passed after first application. Keep children and pets off the treatment area until 24 hours have passed or until dry.
Apply ImidaPro 4SC to potatoes and containerized and field grown citrus crops including calamondin, citrus citron, citrus hybrids (includes chironja, tangelo, and tangor), grapefruit, kumquat, lemon, lime, mandarin (tangerine), pummelo, orange (sweet and sour), satsuma mandarin, tangelo, white sapote (casimiroa spp.), and other cultivars and/or hybrids of these.
Determine how much ImidaPro 4SC to use by measuring the square footage of the treatment site. To do this, measure the length and width of the treatment site in feet and follow the formula (length X width = square footage). The application rate for potato psyllid as a foliar spray is 1.52 oz. of ImidaPro 4SC per 10 gallons of water per acre. Do not exceed 6.4 oz. of product per acre. For complete control, you may need to apply a second application when 7 days have passed from the first application.
For containerized citrus, you will apply 0.37 oz. of product per sufficient water volume per container media as a soil drench or through a low-pressure drip or trickle irrigation water.
For field citrus, apply 8.0 to 16.0 oz. of product per 10 gallons of water per acre. For optimum results, apply to newly planted trees or those previously trained to drip, trickle, or micro-sprinkle irrigation. Pre-wet soil lightly to break soil surface tension prior to application. Soil surface band spray on both sides of the tree. Bands should overlap at the tree base to create a continuous band within the drip-line area of the tree, to be followed immediately with light sprinkler irrigation sufficient to move the product into the upper portion of the root-zone. This method is suitable for very coarse soils with 0.75% organic matter or less. Drench to base of tree not exceeding one-quart total solution per tree immediately around trunk of tree and extending outward covering the entire fibrous root system of the tree. This method is only recommended for trees up to 8 feet tall. Do not exceed 16.0 oz. of product per acre.
Once psyllids are removed, you will need to implement some preventative measures to exclude them from your property and eliminate the attractants that draw them to your foliage. Listed below are some preventative measures you can follow to control future psyllids infestations.
African marigolds are popular garden flowers known for their vibrant colors and ability to repel pests. However, one common problem that gardeners may encounter when growing African marigolds is the presence of lerps. Lerps are tiny sap-sucking insects that can quickly infest and damage your beautiful marigolds. In this article, we will discuss what lerps are, how to identify them, and effective organic methods to get rid of lerps on African marigold plants.
What are Lerps?
Lerps are small, flat, oval-shaped bugs that belong to the psyllid family. They are also referred to as jumping plant lice. There are over 100 species of lerps found throughout North America. These tiny pests feed on the sap of the plant by piercing the leaves and stems, causing the foliage to turn yellow, wilt and curl.
Lerps secrete a sweet sticky residue called honeydew as they feed. The honeydew attracts black sooty mold which grows over the leaves, inhibiting photosynthesis. Left uncontrolled, lerps can weaken plants, reduce flowering, and stunt growth. They can also spread viral diseases.
How to Identify Lerps on African Marigolds
It’s important to correctly identify lerps before treating your plants. Here are some signs of lerp infestation on African marigolds:
- Small yellow, brown or black bumps clustered on the undersides of leaves
- White waxy or fuzzy coatings on leaves
- Curled, yellowing or distorted foliage
- Presence of black sooty mold
- Sticky honeydew residue on leaves
Check the underside of leaves as this is where lerps tend to congregate. Use a magnifying glass to inspect closely. Also look for the tiny winged adult lerps which are about 1/10 inch long.
Effective Organic Methods to Get Rid of Lerps
Getting rid of lerps organically protects you your plants and the environment. Here are some safe DIY methods to control lerps on African marigolds
1. Prune Infested Foliage
Pruning off heavily infested leaves and stems can remove a significant portion of the lerps Be sure to discard the pruned parts in sealed bags away from your garden beds to prevent reinfestation
2. Use a Strong Stream of Water
Blast lerps off with a strong jet of water from your garden hose. Focus on the undersides of leaves where the bugs tend to hide. Repeat as often as needed to dislodge them.
3. Apply Neem Oil
Neem oil is extracted from the neem tree and acts as an organic pesticide and insect repellent. It disrupts the lerps’ life cycle and prevents larvae from maturing. Follow label directions and spray every 7-14 days.
4. Use Insecticidal Soap
Insecticidal soap kills soft-bodied insects like lerps on contact. Spray diluted soap directly on infested plants, especially the undersides of leaves, every 5-7 days until lerps are gone.
5. Release Beneficial Insects
Natural predators like ladybugs, lacewings and parasitic wasps will feed on lerps. Buy them from garden centers or attract them to your garden with companion plants.
6. Apply Horticultural Oil
Coating plants with horticultural oil in early spring smothers overwintering lerps adults and eggs before they can spread. Use a high-quality plant-based oil and follow instructions carefully.
7. Use Diatomaceous Earth
This powdery natural mineral kills lerps on contact by absorbing the waxy outer coating that protects their bodies, causing dehydration. Dust leaves, avoiding blooms. Reapply after rain.
8. Remove Host Plants
Eliminate any weed species that can harbor lerps near your marigolds. Lerps have preferences for certain host plants. Removing these weeds helps break the reproductive cycle.
Preventing Lerp Infestations
Prevention is key to keeping African marigolds free of lerps. Here are some tips:
- Inspect plants frequently and take action quickly at first signs of infestation
- Avoid excess nitrogen fertilization which causes soft, succulent growth that attracts lerps
- Water early in the day so plants can dry out by nighttime
- Clean up and destroy debris around plants were lerps may hide
- Rotate marigold planting locations yearly
- Plant marigolds with pest-repelling companions like basil, garlic, onions
Getting rid of lerps on African marigolds takes persistence, but is very possible with consistent monitoring and using organic control methods. Your diligence will allow you to enjoy beautiful, lerp-free marigold plants that reach their full colorful potential.
Psyllid Control Quick Information
“Either remove or cover plants that are most likely to be infested with psyllids during the winter to help eliminate their presence during the spring.”
This page is a general psyllid control guide. Using the products and methods suggested you will get control of psyllids infesting your property. Follow this DIY guide and use the recommended products and we guarantee complete control of present and future infestations of psyllids.
A tiny insect that homeowners may come across in their outdoor foliage is the psyllid, more commonly referred to as jumping plant lice. As suggested by their name this pest uses its powerful hind legs to jump and fly across short distances. To travel great distances the psyllid normally latches itself into the cracks and crevices of plant bark and leaves of field grown container plants or food such as pears.
Though this pest infestation is uncommon, it does not unnoticed throughout the United States due to the export of fruits and other plants from foreign countries. While there are 160 types of species the psyllid can range between two feeding types: monophagous meaning psyllids feast on one type of plants or oligophagous feeding on two or more related plant species. Regardless of their feeding style, the psyllid should be regarded as a serious pest since these pests possess toxic saliva and can form large groups to suck the nutrients out of desired plant tissue.
In small numbers, the psyllid does not pose much of a threat to gardens and foliage. However, in as little as three weeks this pest complete their life cycle and reproduce up to 800 eggs once per generation during the spring and summer months. Follow our DIY treatment guide to learn more about this sap-sucking pest and how to best remove them from your yard by using the recommended steps and products.
Before you can proceed with a treatment program, you will need to be certain that the pest infesting your property is a species of psyllid. Due to the numerous amount of species, this section will focus on the general characteristics of psyllids. Refer to the following characteristics to identify psyllids.
- Psyllids have short, segmented antennae and elongated oval shaped bodies.
- Similar to cicadas with the exception that psyllids ranges between 0.05 to 0.2 inches in length whereas cicadas measure 1 inch or greater in size.
- During their adult stage, the wings are held in roofline position. Young psyllids are more prone to jumping whereas older psyllids fly.
- Normally tan in color, but can darken to reddish brown as they mature. In the nymph stage, they are pink, green, to yellow in color.
- Psyllids possess a tubular shaped sucking mouthpart to penetrant plant tissue.
- Eggs are orange to yellow in color, 0.3 mm long, and appear football shaped.
Use the and description above to properly identify psyllids on your property. If unsure then contact us with a photo or sample of your pest through phone, email, or in person at one of our store locations.
Once you have confirmed that you are facing an infestation of psyllids, you will then need to locate the areas and plant types they are infesting. Conducting an inspection will help to determine where to focus insecticide applications and the type of product to use. Careless identification can lead you to using the wrong treatment approach and product, which can cost you time and money.
Where to Inspect
Begin by examining aesthetic damages on the leaves, stems, and bark of crops (pears, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, peppers), ornamental plants, trees (acacia, eucalyptus, citrus), and shrubs (grecian laurel) within your garden and landscape.
What to Look For
As a warm dependent pests, the psyllid absorb the juices out of plant leaves with their piercing mouthparts then leave honeydew on which sooty black mold usually grows from throughout the spring and summer season. Depending on the species, they can also leave behind pale or white wax masses, pellets, strands, or coverings called lerps (made from wax and honeydew). From their feeding activity, this causes leaves to turn yellow, burn at top of leaves, holes to develop, curl, and die.
In the first half of spring and summer, psyllids deposit their eggs in the cracks and crevices of plant buds, between plant leaves, tips of new shoot growth, or along the leafs axis horizontal to the surface. During winter, psyllids overwinter in the cracks and crevices of tree bark and trunks causing slight discoloration or loss of leaves around the area.
Once you have confirmed where psyllids are active, you can carry on with insecticide applications. Remember to read the application sites on the product label and plants species to treat, and stay safe before handling or applying any pesticide material by wearing the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE).
To get rid of psyllids infestations, we recommend using a long-lasting liquid insecticide with a residual effect. For example, Supreme IT is a liquid repellent insecticide labeled to control over 70 types of insects, including Psyllids and the pests that may be attracted to their honeydew excrements such as ants. Apply Supreme IT only to non-bearing fruit and nut trees, shrubs, ornamental trees, flowers, foliage plants, and lawns. Once applied this product will last on treated areas for up to 90 days to continue to fight against psyllids and other pests.
For citrus tree infestations, apply insecticide products labeled to be used on these plant species such as ImidaPro 4SC. This product is a liquid systemic insecticide that will travel throughout the stem and leaves of the plant for complete protection against psyllids, potato psyllids, and Asian citrus psyllid. Apply only to potatoes and containerized citrus crops including calamondin, citrus citron, citrus hybrids (includes chironja, tangelo, and tangor), grapefruit, kumquat, lemon, lime, mandarin (tangerine), pummelo, orange (sweet and sour), satsuma mandarin, tangelo, white sapote (casimiroa spp.), and other cultivars and/or hybrids of these.
Step 1: Apply Supreme IT to Non-Bearing Fruit and Nut Trees and Ornamental Foliage
Only apply Supreme IT to the leaves, stems, and trunks of non-bearing fruit and nut trees, shrubs, ornamental trees, flowers, foliage plants, and lawns. Do not treat crops and plants with fruit or nuts.
Use a spray volume of 0.25 to 0.5 oz. of Supreme IT per gallon of water per 1,000 sq. ft. Determine how much Supreme IT to use by calculating the square footage of the treatment site. To do this, measure the length and width of the treatment site in feet and multiply together (length X width = square footage). To reach tree canopy heights you will want to use a hose-end sprayer.
Ensure that your water hose pump and the control valve on the hose-end sprayer is turned off. Attach the empty hose-end sprayer to the end of your garden hose. Remove the reservoir from the nozzle to pour in the required amount of Supreme IT. Fill the hose-end sprayer with enough water to treat the entire treatment site. Reattach the nozzle to the filled hose-end sprayer then turn the water hose on. Push forward the control valve switch on the hose-end sprayer until the material is released.
Spray the top and bottom of leaves until wet, but not to the point of excessive run-off. Retreat these sites when 90 days have passed after first application. Keep children and pets off the treatment area until 24 hours have passed or until dry.
Step 2: Treat Containerized or Field Citrus Crops with ImidaPro 4SC
Apply ImidaPro 4SC to potatoes and containerized and field grown citrus crops including calamondin, citrus citron, citrus hybrids (includes chironja, tangelo, and tangor), grapefruit, kumquat, lemon, lime, mandarin (tangerine), pummelo, orange (sweet and sour), satsuma mandarin, tangelo, white sapote (casimiroa spp.), and other cultivars and/or hybrids of these.
Determine how much ImidaPro 4SC to use by measuring the square footage of the treatment site. To do this, measure the length and width of the treatment site in feet and follow the formula (length X width = square footage). The application rate for potato psyllid as a foliar spray is 1.52 oz. of ImidaPro 4SC per 10 gallons of water per acre. Do not exceed 6.4 oz. of product per acre. For complete control, you may need to apply a second application when 7 days have passed from the first application.
For containerized citrus, you will apply 0.37 oz. of product per sufficient water volume per container media as a soil drench or through a low-pressure drip or trickle irrigation water.
For field citrus, apply 8.0 to 16.0 oz. of product per 10 gallons of water per acre. For optimum results, apply to newly planted trees or those previously trained to drip, trickle, or micro-sprinkle irrigation. Pre-wet soil lightly to break soil surface tension prior to application. Soil surface band spray on both sides of the tree. Bands should overlap at the tree base to create a continuous band within the drip-line area of the tree, to be followed immediately with light sprinkler irrigation sufficient to move the product into the upper portion of the root-zone. This method is suitable for very coarse soils with 0.75% organic matter or less. Drench to base of tree not exceeding one-quart total solution per tree immediately around trunk of tree and extending outward covering the entire fibrous root system of the tree. This method is only recommended for trees up to 8 feet tall. Do not exceed 16.0 oz. of product per acre.
Once psyllids are removed, you will need to implement some preventative measures to exclude them from your property and eliminate the attractants that draw them to your foliage. Listed below are some preventative measures you can follow to control future psyllids infestations.
- Reapply Supreme IT and ImidaPro 4SC as directed on the product label for continued protection against psyllids.
- Remove affected foliage leaves, stems, and branches to reduce potential psyllid egg hatch sites and stimulate plants to grow.
- Mow turf when it has reached a height of 3 inches and trim back overgrown plant materials to disturb psyllid activity.
- Rake fallen leaves, tree bark, fruit, and branches to reduce moisture and shade in your property and deter psyllids from invading.
- You may use yellow sticky traps along the base of trees, but off the ground to prevent psyllids from climbing up and damaging the plant.
- Avoid overwatering by adjusting watering to once a week early in the morning with no more than an inch of irrigation.
- Psyllids are small sucking pests that ingest the plant juices from foliage leaves or fruit depending on the species.
How to Control Pests & Disease for Marigolds : Grow Guru
FAQ
How to get rid of lerps?
What is a natural spray for psyllids?
How to get rid of psyllids naturally?
How to treat a psyllid infestation?
What diseases affect African marigolds?
One of the most common diseases that affect African marigolds is powdery mildew. This fungal disease appears as a white powdery substance on the leaves, stems, and flowers of the plant. Powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant.
How do you get rid of African marigolds?
Use organic methods like handpicking, traps, or applying diatomaceous earth or crushed eggshells around the plants to create barriers and deter these pests. Overwatering or Poor Drainage: African Marigolds prefer well-draining soil, and overwatering can lead to root rot or other fungal diseases.
Why are my African marigolds turning yellow?
These diseases are often spread by insects such as aphids or through contaminated tools or plant material. Identification: Symptoms of viral diseases in African marigolds include yellowing or mottling of leaves, stunted growth, distorted flowers, and overall poor plant vigor.
How do you prevent a marigold plant disease?
Hindsight is 20/20, but prevention is a crucial part of the strategy. Most marigold plant diseases will be due to fungal spores, so correct watering is key. Removing infected plant material can also help limit the spread of disease.