The beautiful blooms of African corn lilies (Ixia species) add vibrant pops of color to gardens and pond edges. However the standing water around these flowers provides the perfect breeding ground for pesky mosquito larvae. If left unchecked, the larvae mature into biting adult mosquitoes that can ruin your enjoyment of the garden and pose health risks.
In this comprehensive guide, we will explore highly effective, environmentally friendly methods to get rid of mosquito larvae in African corn lily flower water. By implementing these techniques, you can break the mosquito life cycle and prevent bothersome biters from ever developing
Understanding the Mosquito Life Cycle
To effectively target mosquito larvae it helps to understand their development stages
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Adult females lay eggs on the surface of standing water. Hundreds of eggs can be deposited at a time.
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Eggs hatch into larvae within 1-2 days. The larvae, or “wigglers,” feed on microorganisms and organic matter in the water.
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After molting several times, mature larvae transform into pupae. Pupae do not feed but are mobile.
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Within 1-2 days, pupae emerge from the water surface as adult mosquitoes. The entire life cycle typically takes 1-2 weeks.
By eliminating larvae and pupae, you can prevent mosquitoes from reaching troublesome adulthood.
Methods to Remove Mosquito Larvae from Flower Water
Here are the top eco-friendly techniques to get rid of mosquito larvae in African corn lily flower water:
1. Introduce Predatory Fish
Adding small fish species like mosquitofish (Gambusia affinis) or guppies to garden ponds will allow them to feast on mosquito larvae. A few fish can eliminate hundreds of larvae daily. Ensure the pond can support the fish year-round.
2. Use a Mechanical Aerator
Aerators and fountains agitate the water surface, making it difficult for mosquitoes to lay eggs. The moving water also inhibits larval development. Install an eco-friendly, solar-powered aerator for the best results.
3. Apply Bacillus Thuringiensis israelensis
This natural bacteria kills mosquito and blackfly larvae when ingested but is safe for animals, plants, and humans. Apply weekly “dunks” or a liquid BTI spray across the pond’s surface.
4. Remove Excess Vegetation
Prune back overgrown pond edges and remove fallen leaves or debris from the water. This eliminates places where mosquito eggs and larvae can hide and thrive.
5. Introduce Beneficial Insects
Dragonfly nymphs and other beneficial predatory insects will feed on mosquito larvae. Avoid pesticides that could kill these helpful natural allies.
6. Change Water Weekly
Manually remove and replace a portion of stagnant pond water weekly to disrupt mosquito breeding. This quick fix flushes out larvae.
7. Apply a Thin Oil Film
Spreading a super-thin layer of food-grade mineral oil across small water surfaces suffocates mosquito larvae and eggs by preventing air respiration. Reapply after heavy rain.
8. Keep Water Moving
Use a small pump or fountain attachment to keep water trickling through a self-contained pot with African corn lily flowers. Moving water deters mosquito egg-laying and larval growth.
Prevent Mosquitoes from Returning
To enjoy larvae-free African corn lily flower water all season long, make mosquito control an ongoing priority:
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Monitor water sources weekly and treat promptly at the first signs of larvae.
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Maintain proper water quality and circulation. Stagnant water encourages mosquito breeding.
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Remove or refresh water in containers like vases every few days.
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Stock permanent ponds with mosquito-eating fish annually.
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Avoid over-fertilizing gardens and lawns near African corn lily flowers. This reduces nutrient runoff into water sources favored by mosquito larvae.
By taking a multifaceted approach focused on biological control and habitat modification, you can successfully eliminate existing mosquito larvae from African corn lily flower water and prevent future generations from developing. Say goodbye to annoying mosquito bites and enjoy picturesque, pest-free flowers.
TREES, SHRUBS & EVERGREENS
Q: Ive got a problem with bagworms all over my favorite evergreen tree. What should I do?
A: Picking off the bagworms is your best bet if youve got just a light infestation. However, for heavier infestations, youll want to use a biological control containing BtK. This is best used when the worms are small. If the worms are larger and you find that you do need a chemical control, you can use an insecticide containing pyrethrin to get rid of em. Keep in mind that its best if you can get to em before late August, which is when they begin to pupate. Once they pupate, they will be protected from the controls.
Q: Im having problems with black, sooty mold appearing on some of my trees. What can I do about it?
A: This is actually an indication of an insect problem. Black, sooty mold often appears when there is a problem with sucking insects such as aphids, scale, whiteflies, or leafhoppers. They secrete a “honeydew” substance that encourages the mold growth. Taking care of the insects is the best solution. Spraying with a horticultural spray oil can help for scale. Using a good liquid fruit tree spray, or an insecticide containing pyrethrin, may help for the others depending on the type of tree and bug that it is. The folks at your local garden center can steer you in the right direction. Once the insects are gone, the sooty mold will eventually wash away. To speed it along, wash the trees down with 1 cup of dishwashing liquid in your 20 gallon hose-end sprayer.
Q: What is dormant spraying, and how do I do it?
A: Many bugs survive the winter by hiding in tree and shrub cracks and crevices. They hatch in the spring with an appetite that would make a hibernating bear proud! To kill the bugs before they hatch, you should dormant spray in late fall, as soon as the leaves of your fruit, nut, and other trees have fallen. You can use a dormant/horticultural oil from your local tree nursery or garden center to nail them in their tracks. First, mix up a batch of my All-Season Clean-Up Tonic, and douse your trees with it to the point of run-off. Then apply the dormant/horticultural oil over the top. Repeat these steps in early spring, before the buds swell up and open. The results will be the happiest and healthiest trees and shrubs youve ever seen!
Q: My evergreen tree sometimes sheds some areas of brown needles it develops during the winter. Come spring its always looking great again. Is this normal?
A: If you dont see any signs of insects or other problems, then this sounds pretty normal. Needle browning and shedding of older needles is normal with many types of evergreens in both spring and fall. In the fall, its similar to what happens to deciduous trees when they shed their leaves. The browning that occurs in spring is usually due to moisture loss from the winter winds and/or from sunscald in areas of snow. As long as the tree greens up later, its not a problem. But to minimize the browning, you can wrap small trees with burlap for the winter. Make sure the burlap does not come into contact with the foliage of the tree. Giving your trees a good, deep watering just before the ground freezes in the winter helps, too.
Q: How should I care for my gardenias?
A: Gardenias really do like a lot of attention. They need full sun or light shade, acidic soil, regular water and feeding, and warm day temperatures with cool nights to bloom. Feed them with fertilizers for acid-loving plants unless the soil where you are located is naturally acidic.
Q: We have had a beautiful lilac thats grown well for many years. All of a sudden though, its not blooming. What could be the problem?
A: Usually, problems with blooming occur for several reasons. First is light. They need at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. If there is shading from trees or buildings, this can affect how well it blooms. Next is improper pruning. Lilacs flower on the previous years growth. If they are pruned at the wrong time, such as fall or early spring, the flower buds are cut off, and there will be no flowers in the spring. They should only be pruned when they finish flowering. Lastly is fertilization–either too little fertilizer, or too much nitrogen. Nitrogen can cause a lot of lush foliage at the expense of forming flower buds. So if you fertilize, cut back on the nitrogen. And if you dont fertilize at all, youd better hop to it!
Q: The leaves on some of my trees turned yellow, then brown, and now theyre starting to fall off! What can I do to make my tree better?
A: There are a number of things you can do. First, make sure they are getting plenty of water at regular intervals. Then make sure they are mulched well. Regularly bathing them every 2 weeks with my All-Season Clean-Up Tonic will help eliminate any natural enemies. To seal out dust, dirt, pollutants (including chemicals), sunscald, winter burn, etc., thoroughly soak the trees with an anti-transpirant (can be found at most tree nurseries) just before the real hot or cold weather sets in; its better than buying life insurance for your plants!
Q: What does it mean to root prune a tree?
A: To root prune, you push a sharp, flat spade in and out of the ground all the way around the plant. This should be done at the “weep line” (the farthest point to which the branches extend) for trees and shrubs. Sprinkle some Epsom salts into the cuts. Next, mix 2 tbsp. of tea, 2 tbsp. of dishwashing liquid, and 1 can of beer in 2 gallons of water. Pour this mixture into the cuts.
Q: Were moving soon, and would like to take our favorite tree with us. When is the best time of year for transplanting a tree?
A: Fall is the best time of the year to transplant trees, shrubs, and evergreens because theyve quit growing for the year, and have some time to recover from the shock before the next growing season. Early spring is the second best time. To get them off to a good start, give each transplant a quart of the following tonic: 1 tbsp. of tea, 1 tbsp. of whiskey, 1 tbsp. of baby shampoo, and 2 tsp. of fish emulsion in 1 quart of warm water. Then sprinkle a handful of Epsom salts over the soil, and say “nighty-nite” for the winter.
Q: How do I get my trees and shrubs ready for the long, cold, winter?
A: There are several things you should do:
- Thoroughly soak the area around the plants before the ground freezes.
- Spread a deep layer of organic mulch around them to hold moisture in, and to prevent the ground from freezing in the absence of snow.
- Wrap the trunks of all young trees with an all-weather tree wrap.
- Coat the foliage of evergreens to the point of run-off with an anti-transpirant.
- Where appearance is not a concern, set up burlap or other windscreens for smaller trees and shrubs.
Q: I was shocked to discover moss and mold on several of my shrubs. How can I get rid of it?
A: You need to spray them to the point of run-off every 2 weeks throughout the growing season with a mixture of 1 cup of antiseptic mouthwash, 1 cup of chamomile tea, and 1 cup of Murphy® Oil Soap in your 20 gallon hose-end sprayer. For small areas on branches and trunks only, a mixture of one part bleach to 10 parts of water should do the trick.
Q: We have a lilac bush that is about a foot tall. It was doing great, then I caught the neighbors dog urinating on it. It turned brown, and lost its leaves. Can it be saved?
A: Yes–if you act quickly. First, apply pelletized gypsum all around the plant at the recommended rate. Then give it a good, thorough soaking with 1 cup of dishwashing liquid in your 20 gallon hose-end sprayer. Two to three weeks later, apply an anti-transpirant to the point of run-off.
Q: I have shoots growing up from around the base of a plum and a crabapple tree. How do I get rid of the shoots without killing the tree?
A: If the shoots are suckers, growing from the base of the tree or from the roots, you dont want to use a weed killer. Just prune them out, preferably below the soil line. If the shoots that are growing under the trees are seedlings growing from fallen fruit, use one of the systemic plant controls containing glyphosate, like RoundUp®, at the recommended rate. For super control, overspray the whole area with 1 cup of dishwashing liquid in your 20 gallon hose-end sprayer first–it wont hurt anything, and it will help the control adhere better. Make sure you apply this chemical on a wind-free day, and be careful–the glyphosate kills all that it touches, so spot treat the shoots only!
Q: How can I get my asparagus ready for the upcoming winter?
A: To put your asparagus to bed for the winter, cut back the ferns once they have turned brown and brittle, and burn them, or have them hauled away (you dont want to add these to your compost pile). Test your soils pH again to make sure everything is as it should be. Then spread at least an inch of compost over the bed, and top it off with about 6 inches of chopped leaves or straw. My book, Terrific Tomatoes, Sensational Spuds, and Mouth-Watering Melons has lots more great tips like this for growing absolutely heavenly asparagus.
Q: The broccoli Im growing seemed to develop small heads this year. What can I do so that I get big, beautiful broccoli in the future?
A: The smaller heads on your broccoli could be caused by a number of reasons. Broccoli may experience stunted head growth if it didnt get enough water, especially when its just starting out. Cool weather can also do it. Spacing is another factor. Spacing them farther apart will help give larger central heads, but fewer side shoots. Closer spacing gives smaller central heads, but more side shoots. Be sure to follow the spacing suggestions given on the label of the variety that you plant. You may also want to consider the variety of broccoli that you have. There are several that will normally grow smaller heads than others. This would mean that there isnt necessarily anything wrong with your broccoli; its just in their nature to grow smaller heads.
Q: My beans have been overrun by Mexican bean beetles. What should I do?
A: Adult Mexican bean beetles overwinter in plant debris, so make certain that you clean up and destroy all plant debris after harvest to reduce their numbers for the following year. To treat for these pests, you can use commercial controls such as Sevin. Be sure to pick off and destroy any eggs, larvae, and adult beetles that you see.
Q: Do you have any information on how to grow gigantic pumpkins? Im thinking about entering a pumpkin contest this year.
A: I sure do! In fact, I give my 12 steps program for growing them in my Terrific Tomatoes, Sensational Spuds, and Mouth-Watering Melons book. A secret I learned years ago, too, was to remove all but the biggest two fruits from each vine and to be sure to give them plenty of water–they can grow as much as 8 inches a day!
Q: How do you grow rhubarb, and when is the best time to water and harvest it?
A: You should mound-plant rhubarb in the fall in soil that has a liberal amount of human hair and oatmeal mixed in with it. Feed it with fish emulsion every 3 weeks throughout the growing season. Harvest in early summer before the stalks go to flower. During the winter, I want you to emulsify all of your table scraps in a blender, and pour this liquid “compost” on the rhubarb. Theyll wake up in the spring rarin to grow!
Q: My tomatoes have blossom-end rot again this year. How can I help them?
A: Blossom-end rot can affect peppers, cucumbers and squash, too. Its caused by a calcium deficiency, which can occur from insufficient calcium in the soil, uneven watering that makes it difficult for the plants to take up the calcium, or leaching of the calcium out of the soil by heavy rain or watering. It often appears after a period of rapid growth, followed by dry conditions, or in periods of heavy rain. To help even out soil moisture be sure to mulch well, and water regularly.
Q: Our problem–early and late blight on our tomato plants. I planted disease-resistant seed and sprayed with liquid copper, but I have had limited success. I still lose about half of my plants by August. What can I do?
A: There are two things that I want you to try–first, mix 1 tbsp. of bleach in 1 qt. of warm water, and spray it over every 100 sq. ft. of garden area as soon as the temperature gets to 50ºF. Then wait 3 weeks, and plant. As soon as buds form, overspray the plants with a mixture of 1 part skim milk and 1 part anti-transpirant to 9 parts of warm water, or apply a commercial fungicide listed for use on tomatoes regularly at the recommended rate. Try either one–both should keep the blight away.
Q: I had some watermelons and cantaloupes die this past year. When I pulled the plants up, there were small, white worms about ¼-inch long, inside the stems. What can I do to control them next year?
A: It sounds like squash vine borers. They can attack melons and cucumbers in addition to squash plants. With these bugs, the best chance of survival is to prevent, prevent, and prevent some more. One way is to dust around the base of the plants with a vegetable dust containing rotenone. With squash, you can also try either early or late plantings to avoid them, or mound soil over the squash plants to the first leaf joint.
My favorite trick, though, involves my favorite garden helper: panty hose. Wrap it around the stem to keep the borers from attacking. If its too late and the borers are already in the stems, slit the infested stems open and kill the borers with a crochet hook. If the plant hasnt died, cover the damaged stem with soil to encourage new roots to grow above where the worm was. Then give it a lot of TLC for the rest of the growing season.
Q: Are there any vegetables that are good to grow in a patch of my garden with a lot of shade?
A: Sorry, but most fruits and vegetables need at least 6 hours of full sun during the 10 am to 6 pm hours. Its probably best if you find another site if you want to grow vegetables. However, if you want to try, leafy vegetables will do better than fruiting ones in the shade.
Q: Whats the difference between detergents and soaps when it comes to tonic recipes?
A: Actually, all soaps are detergents, but not all detergents are soaps. Detergents that are not soaps can be damaging to plants. When my recipes call for dishwashing liquid, youll want to use those that are meant for handwashing dishes. Do not use automatic dishwasher detergents or anything containing antibacterial agents. The best ones are sometimes the cheapest. These will often be less concentrated. Also remember not to use any that say they contain degreasers or are antibacterial.
Q: What is a 20 gallon hose-end sprayer?
A: A 20 gallon hose-end sprayer is a 1-quart sprayer jar with a sprayer head that attaches to the end of your garden hose. The sprayer head will siphon and mix the contents of the jar with 20 gallons of water as it is passing through the hose.
Q: Ive looked all over and havent been able to find a 20 gallon hose-end sprayer for your recipes. Where can I get one or does it matter what type of hose end sprayer it is?
A: Youre in luck! You can find inexpensive 20 gallon hose-end sprayers right here. Using the right kind of sprayers for my recipes is important so that the tonics will be properly diluted.
Q: Can I use my Miracle-Gro Sprayer with your recipes?
A: Nope, sorry. These types of sprayers do not deliver the correct metered dilution rate needed for the tonics.
Q: Can I use my adjustable rate, dial-type sprayer for your tonics, and if so, what setting should I set it at?
A: While some dial sprayers can be used, others will be labeled that they may be damaged if used with soaps. Its usually best to use the recommended 20 gallon hose-end sprayer with the recipes rather than risk damaging your sprayer. Make sure you read the label and instructions for your sprayer before using it with my tonics. If you decide you want to take the chance, the ratio breakdown for my 20 gallon hose-end sprayer recipes is 1.6 oz. of tonic per gallon of water.
Q: How can I keep my Christmas tree looking green and healthy for as long as possible?
A: Theres nothing like a fresh, great-smellin Christmas tree to really spread that holiday cheer. To make your tree as beautiful and long-lasting as possible, when you get your tree home, cut 1 inch off the bottom of the trunk to remove the dried sap. Then mix up 2 cups of clear corn syrup, 2 tbsp. of bleach, and 4 multivitamin tablets + iron in a bucket of very warm water. Set the trunk in the bucket, and let it soak overnight. Finally, before bringing your tree inside, spray it with an anti-transpirant to help it retain its moisture through the holidays. And be sure to keep your tree watered at all times.
Q: Is there a tonic I can use to speed up the decomposition process in my compost pile?
A: Yes, there is–just spray on my Compost Starter Tonic: ½ can of beer, and ½ cup of ammonia in 2 gallons of warm water.
Q: I want to start a compost pile, but dont know what to put in it. Could you start me out with some suggestions?
A: Making your own compost pile is easy. Simply follow this list as a guide:
| DO USE: | DO NOT USE: |
| leaves | diseased or pest-infested plants |
| grass clippings | poisonous plants |
| plant debris | weeds that have gone to seed |
| vegetable peelings | meat products |
| eggshells | oils and oily products |
| coffee grounds | fats and fatty products |
| used tea leaves | |
| newspapers | |
| soil/manure |
Cut all items into small pieces before putting them in the pile. Remember, a compost pile is a great way to improve your soil while recycling your yard waste.
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Stop Mosquito Bites or Hatching Larva at Home
FAQ
How do you get rid of mosquito larvae in a water lily pond?
How do you get rid of larvae in plant water?
How do I keep mosquitoes out of my lily pond?
How to get rid of mosquito larvae in a water tank?
How to kill mosquito larvae in standing water?
If you want to kill mosquito larvae in standing water with regular household products, you can use apple cider vinegar, dish soap or shampoo. You can even use oils such as vegetable oil, extra-virgin olive oil or essential oils, like cinnamon oil. Although you can use bleach, you have to be careful because bleach can harm pets and wildlife.
How do you get rid of mosquito larvae?
The best way to get rid of mosquito larvae is by not giving mosquitoes a place to lay their eggs. Female mosquitoes lay their eggs in standing water, and eggs can hatch in 1 inch of water or more. That’s why it’s vital to get rid of standing water in pet water dishes, kiddie pools and anywhere else in your yard.
Does vinegar kill mosquito larvae?
Yes, white vinegar (and apple cider vinegar) will kill mosquito larvae. To be effective, you must use a ratio of 15% vinegar to 85% water. What can I put in my water tank to kill mosquito larvae? At this time, we are not aware of anything you can put in a drinking water tank to kill larvae that will leave your water safe to drink.
How long does it take to kill mosquito larvae?
A millimeter per gallon of standing water will kill the mosquito larvae in about a day. Oil is a super quick solution when it comes to killing mosquito larvae. If you have vegetable oil, extra-virgin olive oil or even cinnamon oil, pour 1 teaspoon of oil per gallon of water.