As a passionate gardener and American elderberry shrub owner myself, I know how frustrating it can be to find slaters, also known as woodlice or pill bugs, munching away on the leaves and stems of your prized shrub These small gray crustaceans might seem harmless at first glance, but left uncontrolled, they can quickly get out of hand and cause major damage
In this article, I’ll draw on my own experience dealing with slater infestations and share the most effective methods I’ve found for getting rid of slaters on American elderberry shrubs Whether you prefer natural remedies or chemical pesticides, you’ll find practical solutions tailored specifically for protecting American elderberry shrubs from these troublesome invaders
Understanding Slaters
Before diving into control methods, it’s helpful to understand what makes slaters tick. Here are few key facts about these pests:
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Slaters are terrestrial crustaceans not insects. They breathe through gills and need moisture to survive.
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Ideal habitats include moist, shaded areas with decaying vegetation. Common hiding spots are under rocks, mulch, and leaf litter.
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Most active at night, they feed on decaying plant material. However, high populations will munch on living plants.
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Rapid reproduction when conditions are favorable leads to exponential population growth.
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Chewed foliage, wilting leaves, and slaters crawling on plants are telltale signs of an infestation.
Eco-Friendly Control Methods
If you want to deal with slaters in an environmentally responsible way, several natural remedies can help reduce or eliminate populations on your American elderberry shrub:
Improve Drainage
Slaters need moisture, so improving drainage around your shrub denies them their prized living conditions. Make sure soil isn’t compacted and water doesn’t pool. Amend soil with compost to improve drainage.
Remove Mulch & Debris
Eliminate slater hiding spots by clearing away mulch, dead leaves, and other organic matter from the base of your shrub. Disrupting their shelter makes life harder for slaters.
Encourage Natural Predators
Ground beetles, centipedes, toads, and insect-eating birds naturally prey on slaters. Creating a pesticide-free habitat draws these predators to your yard, allowing nature to run its course.
Apply Diatomaceous Earth
This powdery natural substance derived from fossilized algae is abrasive to slaters. Sprinkling it around your shrub creates a lethal barrier for slaters but is harmless to plants and people.
Set Beer Traps
Slaters are attracted to fermented smells. Bury tuna cans or jars filled with cheap beer up to the rim around affected plants to lure slaters to their demise.
Chemical Pesticide Options
For more severe infestations, limited use of chemical pesticides can quickly knock back slater populations. Always follow label precautions carefully:
Insecticidal Soap
Spraying insecticidal soap directly on slaters and affected plants can eliminate these soft-bodied pests while sparing beneficial insects like bees.
Neem Oil
Extracted from the neem tree, this natural pesticide disrupts slater growth and feeding habits. It’s less toxic than synthetic pesticides if used as directed.
Pyrethrin-Based Sprays
These effective sprays derived from chrysanthemum flowers kill slaters on contact while having low toxicity to mammals and birds. They’re a reasonable last resort if natural options fail.
Prevent Reinfestation
No matter what control methods you use, vigilance is needed to prevent recurring slater infestations. Here are some tips:
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Inspect plants frequently, especially at night when slaters are active. Act quickly at the first signs of damage.
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Eliminate excess moisture. Water plants at soil level, improve drainage, and allow soil to dry between waterings.
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Keep mulch 3-4 inches away from plant stems and crowns to eliminate slater highways.
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Remove weeds, grass clippings, and garden debris to deny slaters food and shelter.
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Use row covers as a physical barrier to protect seedlings and tender transplants.
Final Thoughts
How do I get rid of aphids on my Elderberry?
I have two elderberries in the back yard, both are three years old. The tall one suddenly got lots of aphids for the first time. Thick clumps of dark purple aphids (with some ants and ladybugs associated). Maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of a cup of aphids total (50-75 stalks involved). I sprayed them off with the hose today, but I am very concerned. The smaller elderberry (a different variety) is just a few inches away (but has no aphids). and there are chokeberries, grapes, raspberries and blackberries all nearby with a small garden of tomatoes and eggplant.
1) Do some species of elderberry just get this (while some don’t)? How did this one tree get infested? This will help me decide what to do with the elderberry. It’s the first time we’ve ever had aphids in the garden. Do they just float in or get carried in on a bird? 2) If they can be eradicated, that’s one thing. But if they keep coming all summer, and just on the one plant, I’m happy to dig it out. Elderberries are good, but we haven’t had much of a yield anyway.
Donna Coffin, Extension Professor
It does look like you have Elder Aphids on your Elderberry plant. You did the correct control by washing off the pests with a strong spray of water. Our factsheet on Sucking Insects That Affect Vegetables includes the following :
Aphids: Often called plant lice, are small, soft-bodied insects. They range in color from black to green to yellow. Their numbers may greatly increase in a short time. They may cover the entire surface of a leaf or stem. They can be vectors of viruses. Encourage natural predators, such as ladybird beetles or lacewing larvae. Lacewing eggs can be purchased from seed companies. These eggs soon hatch and give good aphid control. Aphids can be washed off plants with a garden hose. Insecticidal soap or malathion can be used to control aphids.
To answer your specific questions: Their numbers may greatly increase in a short time and crowding stimulates the production of winged forms. They may cover the entire surface of a leaf or stem. In short, they drifted in and found a new home.
They can not be completely eradicated whether you remove the plant or not. A better choice would be to keep an eye out for more aphids and wash them off with water. If they get to be too much, then you could try some of the suggestions above.
HOW TO PRUNE AMERICAN ELDERBERRY BUSHES
FAQ
What is the best killer for Slaters?
How do you get rid of bugs in elderberries?
How do you treat elderberry borer?
How do you get rid of bugs on shrubs?
Do elderberry shrubs lose fruit?
As the canes age, they lose their fruitfulness. Pruning an elderberry shrub is a fairly simple task and should take place in winter when the plant is dormant. Before you begin trimming elderberry plants, as when pruning any fruit-bearing plants, sanitize the pruning shears to avoid passing on potential diseases.
How do you replant elderberry plants?
Separate root suckers from the base of the plant and replant them. Elderberry plants spread rapidly. Each root sucker is an opportunity for you to divide your plant, but you will have to separate the root sprout from the parent plant successfully. Be prepared for some digging.
Should I trim elderberry plants?
Before you begin trimming elderberry plants, as when pruning any fruit-bearing plants, sanitize the pruning shears to avoid passing on potential diseases. When trimming elderberry plants, remove any dead, broken, or noticeably low-yield canes from the shrub at the trunk with the shears. Canes that are over three years old go next.
What is American elderberry?
American elderberry, also known as common elderberry or just elderberry, is a deciduous shrub with bright white flowers and small, dark drupe fruits or “berries” that are often made into jellies or baked into pies. These shrubs are beloved by pollinators.