As a balsam plant owner, nothing is more frustrating than seeing your beautiful plants become infected with diseases. Balsams are prone to several common plant diseases that can quickly damage or kill them if left uncontrolled. The good news is that with proper care and preventative measures, you can keep your balsams healthy and thriving for years to come. In this article, we’ll cover the most common balsam diseases and give you tips on how to prevent them
Overwatering
One of the most common mistakes people make is overwatering their balsam plants. Balsams prefer evenly moist but not soggy soil. When soil stays saturated for too long, it deprives roots of oxygen and allows fungal and bacterial diseases to take hold. To prevent overwatering, always check soil moisture before watering. Stick your finger into the soil and if it feels moist 1-2 inches below the surface, hold off on watering. The soil should be allowed to partially dry out between waterings.
Adding compost or peat moss to the soil can also improve drainage and aeration to prevent overwatering Make sure balsam pots and planters have adequate drainage holes as well. Allow excess water to drain fully after watering and don’t allow plants to sit in water Water early in the day so leaves have time to dry out before nighttime, as wet foliage is more susceptible to diseases.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is one of the most widespread balsam diseases. It appears as a white powdery coating on leaves, stems and flowers. The fungus thrives in warm, humid conditions with poor air circulation. To prevent powdery mildew:
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Space plants properly to allow air circulation between them.
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Avoid overhead watering which can splash spores onto leaves. Instead use drip irrigation or water at soil level.
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Apply mulch around plants to prevent soil from splashing onto leaves.
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Prune and destroy any infected plant parts.
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Use fans indoors or grow balsams in breezy spots outdoors.
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Lower humidity levels around plants.
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Apply neem oil or fungicides labeled for powdery mildew.
Botrytis Blight
Botrytis blight is another fungal disease that looks like gray fuzzy mold on leaves and stems. It spreads rapidly in cool, wet or humid conditions. To prevent botrytis blight:
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Provide good air circulation between plants.
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Avoid wetting foliage when watering.
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Reduce humidity levels if growing plants indoors.
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Remove dead leaves and debris which can harbor the fungus.
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Prune plants to improve air circulation.
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Water early in the day so foliage dries before night.
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Spread out plants instead of crowding them.
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Apply appropriate fungicides at first sign of disease.
Root Rot
Root rot can be caused by overwatering or soil-borne fungi like phytophthora, pythium and rhizoctonia. Plants wilt easily, leaves turn yellow and roots appear brown and mushy. To prevent root rot:
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Allow soil to dry between waterings and check moisture before watering.
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Ensure pots and planters have adequate drainage.
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Use sterile potting mix and avoid overcrowding roots.
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Apply fungicides or beneficial fungi to soil if fungus is present.
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Improve soil drainage by adding compost, perlite or sand.
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Water plants at soil level instead of from overhead.
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If soil remains waterlogged, repot plants in fresh, sterile mix.
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Prune affected roots and stems.
Aphids
Aphids are common sap-sucking insects that cluster on stems and undersides of leaves. They secrete sticky honeydew which can lead to sooty mold growth. Getting rid of aphids can be challenging but here are some tips:
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Check plants frequently and treat at first sighting. Heavy infestations are harder to control.
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Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water. Repeat several times a week.
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Apply insecticidal soaps which smother aphids. Coat undersides of leaves.
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Release ladybugs which feed on aphids.
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Spray plants with neem oil extract.
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Apply horticultural oils to suffocate insects.
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As a last resort, use insecticides labeled for aphid control.
Fungal Leaf Spot Diseases
Leaf spots like anthracnose, cercospora leaf spot and alternaria can sometimes infect balsams. Small spots enlarge and turn brown or black. To prevent leaf spot diseases:
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Avoid wetting foliage when watering. Water at the base.
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Space and prune plants to allow for good airflow.
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Disinfect pruning tools between plants.
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Pick off and destroy badly infected leaves.
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Apply appropriate fungicides at first sign of infection.
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Remove leaf litter and debris around plants.
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Rotate balsam plantings to different areas of the garden each year.
Viral Diseases
Viruses like impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) can sometimes affect balsams and cause spotting, ringspots, wilting and distortion. Since there are no chemical controls, prevention is key:
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Purchase only healthy, disease-free plants and seeds. Avoid sharing plants.
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Control insect pests like thrips which can spread viruses.
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Sterilize tools, pots and trays between use.
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Weed the garden to remove alternate hosts.
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Remove and destroy diseased plants immediately to prevent spread.
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Do not plant balsams in the same spot in subsequent years.
By following these tips diligently, you can help prevent diseases and keep your balsam plants looking their best. Be sure to buy disease-resistant varieties when available, scout plants frequently for problems, and act quickly at the first sign of disease. With proper growing conditions and preventative care, you can successfully grow healthy, thriving balsam plants for years to come.
Immediate Rescue: Treating Balsam Root Rot
When your Balsams roots are rotting away, its surgery time. Sterilize your pruning shears—disease spreads faster than a rumor in a small town.
- Unearth the plant with care, keeping the healthy roots intact.
- Snip off the mushy, discolored roots; theyre as good as dead.
- Dispose of the infected bits far from your garden—think of it as quarantine.
Reviving the Soil
Overwatering is often the culprit, so lets not drown our sorrows or our Balsams.
- Adjust your watering habits to when the soil feels like a wrung-out sponge, not a soaked one.
- Mix in some gritty friends like perlite or sand to get that soil draining faster than a sink with new pipes.
Remember, its not just about saving your plant; its about setting it up for a comeback.
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