Abutilons are a group of plants in the mallow family, related to hibiscus. They are a tropical to subtropical plant, hardy outdoors only in USDA zones nine to 11. A blossoming plant with flowers in a number of forms, ranging from hibiscus-like to the more characteristic bell-shaped, they are often called Flowering Maple for their bloom and the shape of their leaves. Commonly grown as houseplants, they are easily grown from seed in spring or by stem cuttings in spring and summer.
Place one seed in each cell or tray section. Cover lightly with a thin layer of potting soil.
Place potted seeds with watering tray in a strong, indirect light such as light from a north window, or under a grow light.
If using a bottom-heat source such as a planters heating pad, or a radiator, the desired temperature will be approximately 65 to 75 degrees F.
Remove three- to four-inch cuttings from the tips of growing branches, cutting at a slight angle just under a leaf node.
Remove the leaves at the lowest node without scraping away the base of the node. Root growth can begin from these nodes. Remove additional lower leaves, but leave top growth intact. Ideally as many as three nodes will be available on the lower stem.
Make a hole in the potting soil with your finger. Insert the stem up to the highest exposed node on the stem. Press sand firmly around stem.
Place cells or planting trays on the watering tray. Mist cuttings and add water to one-quarter inch in the watering tray.
Place the entire unit on the bottom-heating source such as a planters heating pad or a radiator in indirect light. Optimal temperatures are between 65 to 75 degrees F.
Mist only if there are signs of dried, rather than wilted foliage: the hood or tent should suffice to maintain the high humidity needed for the cuttings.
It is not necessary to abrade or soak abutilon seeds prior to planting, but it can speed germination.
If possible, provide some ventilation to the hood or tenting over cuttings. High humidity is desired. Mold is not.
Mold is one of the most likely problems with cuttings. Because the humidity must be high, mold also flourishes. One of the best options if you cannot provide some form of air circulation within your hood or tent is to remove the tent entirely for a few hours every day or so to allow things to dry out a bit. Keep a close eye on your cuttings, remove any with mold, and never let cuttings touch the hood or tent as that provides a place for water to accumulate and mold and rot to begin.
Abutilon also known as flowering maple is a beautiful flowering plant that can add a pop of color to any garden. With large, gorgeous bell-shaped blooms, abutilon comes in a variety of colors like red, yellow, orange, pink and more. The good news is that this plant is easy to propagate so you can make more plants from the mother plant you already have.
Propagating abutilon is typically done through stem cuttings. This allows you to clone your existing plant and create genetically identical new plants. With a high success rate, stem cuttings are a great way to get more flowering maples without having to buy new plants.
Here is a step-by-step guide on how to easily propagate abutilon from cuttings
Choose Healthy Stems
The first step is selecting healthy stems to use for your abutilon cuttings. Look for stems that are new growth, meaning ones that grew in the current season. Older wood has a lower chance of successful propagation. The stems should be a light green color and pliable, not brown and woody.
Select stems that are 3 to 6 inches long. Use a clean, sharp pair of pruners to cut the stems right above a leaf node. The bottom 2 nodes will be where the new roots emerge so be sure to make your cut just above the top node you want to use.
Use Rooting Hormone
While not 100% necessary, using a rooting hormone can dramatically improve your chances of successful abutilon propagation. The hormone contains compounds that encourage root growth on the cuttings.
There are different types of rooting hormone available. For abutilon, a powder is the easiest to use. Simply dip the cut end of the stem in the powder so it is thoroughly coated. Tap off any excess before moving to the next step.
Plant in Propagation Medium
The prepared cuttings now need to be planted in a suitable propagation medium. This provides moisture and support while the new roots form.
A sterile, soilless mix formulated specifically for propagation is ideal. Combine equal parts peat moss and perlite for a DIY blend. The medium should be damp but not soaking wet.
Use small pots or cell packs with drainage holes to plant the cuttings. Poke holes with a pencil and insert each cutting so the bottom nodes are buried in the mix. Firm the medium gently around the stem.
Provide Warmth and Humidity
Creating the right environment is crucial for the cuttings to form roots and new growth. They need consistent warmth and very high humidity.
The ideal temperature range is 75-80°F. Any cooler and rooting will be slowed. Any hotter can cause stress. Use a heat mat under the pots or place them in a warm spot in the house.
Humidity around the cuttings should be kept at 80-90%. Cover the pots with plastic dome lids or bags to create a greenhouse effect. Keep the coverings sealed but open once a day to refresh the air inside.
Give Bright, Indirect Light
The abutilon cuttings require moderately bright light to root successfully but direct hot sun will dry them out. Near a south or west window is optimal indoor light. Outdoors, place under a shaded overhang or beneath a tree. Rotate the pots every few days so all sides get even light exposure.
Monitor Moisture
Check the rooting medium daily to ensure the moisture level is ideal. It should remain damp but never get waterlogged. The high humidity will limit evaporation but some additional water will be needed. Lightly sprinkle with a mister when the surface starts to dry out.
Watch for Rooting
Under the right conditions, you should see roots form within 4-6 weeks. Look for new leaf growth as the first sign of life. Then gently tug on each cutting to feel for resistance from new root formation.
When there is 3 inches or more of new top growth, the cuttings are ready to be potted up into larger containers. Harden them off for a week before moving to the garden.
Prevent Issues
Constant monitoring and quick action are vital to prevent problems during propagation. Watch for any signs of disease or pests. Discard any cuttings that are rotting or infected to prevent spreading. Keep the area very clean and the humidity domes free of condensation buildup.
With the proper care, your abutilon cuttings should root readily so you can add more of these beautiful bloomers to your garden! Starting new plants from stem cuttings is rewarding and helps you expand your plant collection affordably.
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FAQ
How to root abutilon cuttings?
What is the easiest method of plant propagation?
How do you make abutilon bushy?
What is Abutilon plant propagation?
Propagation is the process of growing new plants from existing ones. Abutilon plant propagation involves taking cuttings from a parent plant and encouraging them to grow roots and develop into new plants. This is an easy way to increase your abutilon collection without spending a lot of money on buying new plants. How to Propagate Abutilon Plant?
Can You propagate an Abutilon cutting in winter?
A: Yes, you can propagate your abutilon plant in winter, but it may take longer for the cutting to root due to lower temperatures and less sunlight. Make sure to provide adequate light and warmth for your cutting during this time. Q: How long does it take for an abutilon cutting to root?
Can you grow Abutilon from seed?
It is easy to propagate abutilon from cuttings, but by growing abutilon from seed you might be lucky enough to be surprised with new flower colors. Germinating and nurturing abutilon seeds is a simple process for gardeners of all levels.
How do you grow Abutilon plants?
Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the root ball of your seedling and gently place it in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil and water thoroughly. Be sure to space your abutilon plants at least 1 m/ 3 feet apart to allow for proper growth and air circulation.