Aeoniums are fleshy, succulent plants native to Madeira, the Canary Islands and North Africa. Members of the Crassulaceae family, they have rosettes of glossy, waxy leaves and range in height from a few centimetres to up to a metre. In late winter or spring they may produce clusters of tiny flowers but they are mostly grown for their distinctive, unusual shapes and foliage that comes in shades of green or purple-black or variegated in shades of white, yellow and red.
Aeoniums make excellent, low maintenance house plants that need very little care. They thrive on neglect – allowing the soil to dry out in between watering will make the colours more vibrant and the plant stronger. They look great grown with other succulents or cacti that thrive in similar growing conditions. They can also be grown outdoors in summer, in a pot with summer bedding plants or in a sunny, well-drained border.
The main growing season for aeoniums is spring and autumn, when the temperature and light levels are perfect for their growth. Aeoniums often go dormant in hot periods of the summer – you may notice the rosettes becoming tighter, and the outer leaves drying and dropping off. This perfectly normal. They need less water at this time as they can live off the water and nutrients stored in the leaves and stems.
Aeoniums are monocarpic, which means they die after flowering. However, on branching varieties, only the rosette that produced the flower will die, leaving the rest of the plant to live on. It is a good idea to take cuttings of your aeoniums so that you always have new plants.
How to Propagate Aeonium Plants Propagation Made Easy
Aeoniums are stunning succulents that form tight rosettes of colorful leaves on the ends of branching stems. Their eye-catching shapes and hues make them prized additions to any succulent collection. Luckily, propagating aeoniums is straightforward, allowing you to expand your plant family for free! In this article, I’ll share my proven tips for propagating aeoniums through cuttings, offsets, leaves, and seeds. With just a little know-how, you’ll be able to create tons of new aeoniums with ease.
Let’s start with the most popular method – stem cuttings. This technique yields great results and is easy even for beginners. Here’s how it works:
Select a healthy stem that’s about 4 inches long Use clean scissors or pruners to detach it from the mother plantTrim away any leaves from the lower half of the stem so they don’t rot when planted,Allow the cut end to dry out and callous over for 2-3 days before planting,Dip the calloused end in rooting hormone powder to spur root growth (optional),Plant the cutting in a container filled with well-draining cactus/succulent soil, Water lightly,Place the potted cutting in bright indirect light and wait for roots to form,
In 4-6 weeks, your cutting should have rooted and be ready to grow as a new plant. Gradually transition it to more direct sunlight. Stem cuttings have a high success rate and produce genetically identical clones of the parent plant. I propagate most of my aeoniums this way.
Another option is to use offsets, also called pups or plantlets. Mature aeoniums often produce these miniature versions of themselves at the base of the plant. Here’s how to use them:
Gently detach offsets from the mother plant, keeping roots intact.Allow to dry for 2-3 days as with cuttings.Plant in soil, water lightly, and provide bright indirect light.Once established, water more often and transition to direct sun.
Offsets are like instant baby plants so they take off quickly. Within weeks, you’ll have a fully rooted new aeonium. Just take care not to damage the fragile offsets when separating them.
For a more natural approach, try propagating aeoniums from leaves. Here are the steps:
Remove a healthy leaf near the base of the plant. Let the end callous over.Place the leaf right-side up on moist soil. The base should be partly buried.Keep soil slightly damp but not soggy.Roots and a new rosette will emerge from the base in a few weeks.
Leaf propagation has a lower success rate than stem cuttings or offsets but it’s fun to experiment with. Make sure leaves remain dry until callusing to prevent rot.
Finally, propagating from seeds is an option if you harvest seeds from an aeonium flower. Here’s a quick guide:
Sow seeds in a sandy, well-draining mix. Cover lightly with soil.Keep warm (70-75°F) and evenly moist until sprouting.Gradually expose seedlings to more sun over a few weeks.Transplant into individual containers once established.
From seeds, you gain the most genetic diversity but plants grow slowly at first. Be patient as germination can take 10-20 days. Provide ideal warm, humid conditions for best results.
To summarize, propagating aeoniums is really straightforward when you follow a few basic guidelines:
- Let cuttings and leaves callous before planting
- Use well-draining cactus/succulent soil
- Provide bright indirect light at first
- Gradually increase sun exposure
- Allow offset and leaf propagation more time
With this propagation guide, filling your home with aeoniums should be easy peasy. Before you know it, you’ll have aeonium babies popping up everywhere. These striking succulents multiply readily when given the right care. Propagation is also a great way to share these special plants with friends and family.
The most important thing is to have fun and enjoy watching your new aeoniums grow. Be patient, care for them properly, and you’ll have amazing results. Aeoniums come in so many cool varieties – once you start propagating, it’s hard to stop! With a little practice, you’ll be propagating like a pro.
Growing aeoniums: problem solving
- Over watering is the most common cause of aeonium problems. Aeoniums come from hot, dry regions and look best when this is replicated in your house or garden.
- Washed out, pale foliage could be a result of over watering. Cut back on watering, and let the compost dry out completely before watering again. You may also find that if you’re growing your aeonium as a house plant, putting it outdoors in summer will restore its vibrant colour.
- A rosette that is closed up, with dry leaves around the edge that are dropping off, is normal in summer. Aeoniums go dormant in hot periods.
- A leggy, stretched plant is a sign that it is not getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot.
- Hairy stems are actually aerial roots. They sometimes appear naturally and are nothing to worry about. However they can be a sign that the conditions are not right for your plant. It could be that the roots below the soil are not getting enough water. Watering thoroughly, then leaving the compost to dry out should avoid this – watering little and often is not the answer, as the water needs to penetrate deep into the compost. Conversely, they could be a sign that the compost isn’t free draining enough – this might be the cause if no perlite, sand or grit was added to the compost when planting. Aerial roots can also be a sign that your plant is not getting enough light, or that it is rootbound and needs repotting.
- A mushy brown stem is rot, caused by too much water, especially in the colder months.
- If your plant is dying back after flowering, this is normal – aeoniums are monocarpic, which means they die once they have flowered. However on branching varieties, only the rosette that produced the flower will die back. Cut off the flower head and the rosette and the rest of the plant will carry on growing.
- You may spot mealybugs on the foliage – white, fluffy blobs around 5mm across. Wipe them off with a cotton pad soaked in organic insecticide.
- Vine weevil can be a problem for plants grown in pots outdoors. These eat the roots unseen and the first sign you may see is a plant that is inexplicably dying. Look out for the adults on the foliage and white grubs in the compost. Remove promptly if you see any. Treat with an organic nematode drench in late August or September.
Growing aeoniums: jump links
Whether you’re growing them indoors or out, aeoniums thrive in bright, dry conditions. They store water in their thick, fleshy leaves and need very little water, which means they do best in very well drained soil or in a gravel garden. The foliage is tough enough to withstand windy conditions, making them good for coastal gardens. If you don’t have the right conditions in your garden, grow them in pots, either on their own or with drought-tolerant bedding plants, such as pelargoniums. If growing aeoniums indoors, give them a bright spot – they can take some direct sunshine.
How to propagate Aeoniums from cuttings – Easy + results
FAQ
How do you propagate aeonium from cuttings?
How to encourage aeonium to branch?
How to propagate Aeonium plants?
Beheading is a fantastic technique for propagating Aeonium plants. Here’s how you can do it: Step 1: Gather the necessary tools, such as clean scissors or pruning shears. Identify mature branches of your Aeonium plant with rosettes and cut off the tops. Step 2: Transplant the cuttings into containers filled with succulent soil.
How do aeoniums grow?
Aeoniums belong to the Crassulaceae family, which encompasses a variety of succulent plants. These plants have adapted to hot and dry environments and store water in their leaves, stems, and roots. To propagate aeoniums, gardeners typically take stem cuttings or offsets from the mother plant.
How do you propagate Aeonium rosette?
Propagation of Aeonium Cuttings in Soil Propagating aeonium cuttings in soil is a common method that many gardeners use. Firstly, gather cuttings that are about 3 to 4 inches in length, preferably from the rosette’s stem. Ensure the stem is healthy and sturdy as you don’t want to use a weak, sick, or diseased plant to propagate.
Can aeoniums be propagated in winter?
Avoid propagating during winter as it can lead to stress on the plant due to low light levels and cold temperatures. Choose a healthy aeonium plant for propagation. Pick a well-established, mature plant with good foliage growth without any pest infestation or diseases.