If you live in a temperate climate and want an (almost) year-round floral fiesta of vibrant color, then bougainvillea is the plant for you. I’m sharing bougainvillea care tips, a plant I have a lot of experience with, in two different hardiness zones.
There are many different types of bougainvillea. Depending on the variety, it can be grown on a trellis or over an arbor, against a building, fence, or wall, in containers, as a hedge or ground cover, in tree form, and as a bonsai.
Bougainvillea species and varieties can grow from 1′ to 8′ to 30′. There are quite a few dwarf varieties of bougainvillea (not really dwarf, but they stay under 6′) on the market now if you don’t want the maintenance that goes along with one that grows to 25′.
These are the bougainvilleas I’ve seen most often: Barbara Karst, San Diego Red, Rosenka, James Walker, Torch Glow, and Purple Queen.
Barbara Karst Bougainvillea plants are known for their vibrant pinkish-purple blooms that can transform any outdoor space into a tropical paradise. However, like all plants, they can encounter issues that lead to declining health. Don’t give up hope! With some attentive care, you can nurse your Barbara Karst Bougainvillea back to its former glory. In this article, we’ll walk through the top strategies for identifying problems and restoring the health of a struggling Barbara Karst Bougainvillea.
Diagnose the Issue
The first step is always to figure out why your Barbara Karst Bougainvillea is struggling in the first place. Here are some of the most common causes of poor health:
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Improper watering – Bougainvillea do best when the soil is kept evenly moist but not soggy. Both underwatering and overwatering can harm the plant. Check the soil frequently and adjust your watering schedule.
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Lack of sunlight – These plants need at least 6 hours of direct sun per day. Without enough light, they won’t bloom properly. Move it to the sunniest part of your yard.
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Poor drainage – Bougainvillea hate wet feet. Make sure the pot or planting area has adequate drainage so water doesn’t pool at the roots.
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Cold damage – Barbara Karst Bougainvillea thrive in warm climates If temperatures dip below 30°F, cold injury can occur. Cover the plant or bring indoors during cold snaps.
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Pests – Aphids mites, and caterpillars can all attack bougainvillea. Check closely for signs of infestation. Apply appropriate organic pest control measures.
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Nutrient deficiencies – Lack of key nutrients like nitrogen leads to yellowing leaves and poor growth. Fertilize regularly with a balanced plant food.
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Root rot – Excess moisture around the roots can cause fungal rot. This must be treated quickly to save the plant.
Revive the Roots
Damaged or diseased roots are often the underlying cause of broader plant health issues. To nurse a Barbara Karst Bougainvillea back to life, you need to start by addressing the root system. Here are some tips:
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Check for rot – Carefully remove the plant from its pot and inspect the roots. Brown, mushy roots indicate rot. Cut away any severely damaged roots completely.
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Prune problem roots – Use sterilized, sharp pruners to trim off any roots that are shriveled or discolored. Removing unhealthy tissue will encourage new root growth.
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Repot in fresh soil – Pick a new container with drainage holes and fill with a well-draining potting mix, not regular garden soil. Gently place the roots inside and fill in around them with soil.
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Water thoroughly after repotting – Once planted in its new container, water well to settle the soil and eliminate any air pockets. Then let the soil dry out a bit before watering again.
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Consider root stimulator products – Rooting hormone powders or other stimulators can encourage new white root growth after pruning. Use as directed.
Provide Proper Care
Once you’ve addressed any root issues, the next priority is optimizing the care regimen to nurse your Barbara Karst Bougainvillea back to health. Here are some tips:
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Sun and warmth – Place the plant in a spot with maximum sunlight, at least 6 hours per day. Maintain temperatures above 60°F.
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Water judiciously – Check the soil frequently and water only when the top few inches become dry. Avoid oversaturation.
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Ensure drainage – Make sure the pot has holes and use a light, porous potting mix. For in-ground plants, amend the soil with compost to aerate.
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Fertilize regularly– Feed every 2-3 weeks during the growing season with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer or one formulated for blooming plants.
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Prune for shape– Cut back leggy growth and train vines for best structure and bloom display. Prune lightly in fall.
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Watch for pests – Monitor daily and take action at first signs of insects or mites. Target treatment to affected areas only.
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Protect from cold – Move potted plants indoors or cover outdoor plants when temperatures drop below 30°F.
Be Patient During Recovery
Bouncing back from a health crisis takes time for plants and people alike. Be diligent about proper care, but also be patient with your Barbara Karst Bougainvillea as it regains strength. With consistent TLC, it should show signs of new growth within a few weeks. Proper pruning and training will coax it back into its former glory over the following months.
Monitor progress closely and adjust care as needed. If worrisome symptoms persist, consult with your local nursery or horticultural extension office to identify any additional issues needing treatment. With a bit of determination on your part, before long your Barbara Karst Bougainvillea will once again become the vibrant focal point of your garden.
Frequently Asked Questions About Reviving Barbara Karst Bougainvillea
Many gardeners have questions when trying to rehabilitate a struggling Barbara Karst Bougainvillea. Here are answers to some common concerns:
How often should I water my recovering bougainvillea?
Check the soil moisture frequently, at least every other day. Water thoroughly whenever the top few inches become dry, taking care not to oversaturate. Proper soil moisture is key during recovery.
Should I prune back all the growth to help it regain strength?
No, drastic pruning is not necessary for a revival. Simply prune back leggy growth and any dead or damaged stems. Removing all healthy growth would only further stress the plant.
My plant’s leaves are turning yellow – what should I do?
Yellowing leaves often indicate a nutrient deficiency. Begin fertilizing immediately with a balanced plant food. Check that the soil pH is in the desired range of 5.5-6.5.
Can I revive a bougainvillea with few remaining live leaves?
There’s hope, but it will be a long process. Follow root and soil revival advice. New growth should emerge within several weeks if the root system is healthy. Be patient.
How can I encourage my bougainvillea to flower again?
Ensure it gets at least 6 hours of direct sun per day. Fertilize regularly. Prune lightly in fall to shape it. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizer which leads to foliage over flowers.
Should I repot my recovering bougainvillea into a larger container?
Not necessarily. Focus on reviving it in its current pot unless the roots are severely crowded. Repotting into a too-large container can slow growth.
Is my Barbara Karst Bougainvillea beyond saving?
Don’t give up too soon! Even plants that appear almost dead can sometimes be coaxed back to life with attentive care. Follow these tips to spur regrowth.
Final Thoughts on Restoring Barbara Karst Bougainvilleas
Barbara Karst Bougainvilleas are treasured for their lush pink blooms, but they can suffer setbacks just like any plant. With some detective work to identify issues and attentive care to support regrowth of roots and foliage, you can nurse your Barbara Karst Bougainvillea back to vigorous health. Be diligent about proper sunlight, watering, soil health, and pest control. Above all, arm yourself with patience and persistence – with time, your beloved bougainvillea should once again thrive. Enjoy the journey of restoration and take pride in your gardening skills when vibrant blossoms return. Your hard work will pay off in the end with a spectacular show of color.
Bougainvillea Care Tips A close-up of the very floriferous Bougainvillea glabra that grew up & across my garage in Santa Barbara. I miss that mass of color!
I’ve grown bougainvillea in 2 different climate zones. I lived in Santa Barbara, CA (USDA zone 10b) for ten years. I moved to Tucson, AZ (USDA zone 9a) seven years ago.
If bougainvillea is in the right conditions, then it’s fast-growing. If it’s not getting enough sun, the growth will be leggy, and you won’t get much flowering.
Bougainvillea is fast-growing after it gets established in the warmth and full sun that it loves. I’ve found it takes one to three years for new plants to take off, but when they do, they’re off to the races!
This flowering machine isn’t a plant for colder climates.
Bougainvillea is hardy from USDA zones 9b – 11. It doesn’t like to go below 32 degrees Fahrenheit and not for a prolonged period. One or two random nights around or slightly below freezing will be okay. You can find your USDA hardiness zone here by inputting your zip code.
Older, established bougainvilleas can withstand a freeze much better than newly planted ones. Many varieties will lose part or all of their leaves in climates with winters on the cooler end of the spectrum.
Some of the foliage from the previous season can remain on the plant and eventually falls off as new growth appears in spring. Many species of butterflies love bougainvillea. The Fritillary is one of them.
Bougainvillea needs at least 6 hours of full sun daily to flower profusely and look its best. This plant also loves the heat. Not enough sun = not enough color.
If you live in a climate where bougainvillea is borderline hardy, planting it against a warm wall or in a corner against the house will help. Remember, this popular plant that loves sun and heat!
When it comes to watering, bougainvillea is fairly drought-tolerant once established. It prefers a good, deep watering every 3-4 weeks rather than frequent shallow watering.
Give your bougainvillea regular water when establishing (in the first couple of years). It’s subject to a few types of root rot, so don’t over-water. The soil should be well-drained, helping to prevent rot.
I never supplementally watered my bougies in Santa Barbara because they were older and well-established. I lived seven blocks from the beach, so they got spring and summer moisture from the maritime layer.
In Tucson, my bougainvilleas look best when watered (via drip irrigation) for an hour a week in spring, summer, and early fall.
Another result of too much water – is more green growth and fewer flowers. No, thank you – flowers, please!
Do you have questions about this plant? Click here for answers to questions about Growing Bougainvillea.
I’ve never fertilized bougainvilleas when planting or as part of maintenance. I feed them with compost – a good dose upon planting and a 3″ topping every year or two in late winter/early spring.
I used to work at a Berkeley Horticultural Nursery, where a grower recommended fertilizing them with palm and hibiscus food one or two times (in late spring and mid-summer) during the active growing season. This bougainvillea fertilizer gets high ratings and would be another option.
Be sure to follow the directions on the box – an application once or twice a year will be just fine.
In my Santa Barbara garden, aphids could be an issue on the new growth of my bougainvilleas in early spring. I just sprayed them off with a gentle blast of the garden hose. Spider mites are another common plant pest to be on the lookout for.
The bougainvillea looper caterpillar has been an issue with my bougies in Arizona and California. They’re green, brown, or greenish-yellow and tiny – maybe 1″ long. They feed at night and chew mainly on the leaves. I just let them be, and they eventually go away. Because my bougies drop many leaves in the winter, it’s not an issue for me.
A few years ago, leafcutter bees enjoyed one of my bougainvilleas, which you’ll see in the video, but now they moved on. They move fast and are valuable pollinators for many plants. For that reason, I let them be, also.
You might find this post on What’s Eating My Bougainvillea Leaves helpful. These bougainvilleas in planter boxes provide a colorful privacy screen to this building with a wall of windows.
This plant needs well-draining soil when growing in the ground or in a pot. Find more on bougainvilleas in containers further on down.
When I plant bougainvilleas in the ground, I add loam from a local landscape supply company (if the existing soil needs it) and organic matter.
Planting or transplanting bougainvillea is best done in the warmer months. Depending on your zone, that’s anywhere from March through October.
One of the most important things to do is to choose the appropriate location. Bougainvilleas and sunshine go hand in hand.
I’ll briefly touch on transplanting and tell you it’s a crapshoot. Bougainvilleas don’t like to have their roots disturbed. I’ve never transplanted one and don’t recommend it.
You’d be better off just buying a new plant. If you try transplanting yours, just be as careful as possible not to injure those sensitive roots.
I’ve done a post and video on Planting Bougainvillea, which includes all the steps and an important thing to know.
The taller growing bougainvillea vines need strong support and require training and to be tied. They aren’t attaching or twining vines. Make sure the ties you use are strong and that you tie them well – some of their branches get to be good-sized.
I trained my Bougainvillea glabra in Santa Barbara to grow up and over my garage. Once it got higher than the door, I secured it to a large metal trellis (bolted to the top center of the garage), and it grew all the way across. You can see this in the photo below.
They can be trained on a trellis, over an arbor, on a fence, or across a structure. The lower-growing varieties are suited to be hedges, ground covers, and free-form shapes (I’ve seen one pruned into a swan shape and another into a giant basket).
The best time to start the training process is when or soon after planting.
I trained my Barbara Karst in Santa Barbara into an “umbrella tree.” Bougainvilleas are also suitable bonsai plants; I’ve seen some beautiful specimens. This bougainvillea of mine was an adventure in pruning!
I gave mine their big pruning in late winter in Santa Barbara and early spring in Tucson. This sets the tone for how I wanted them to grow and look throughout the season. I did two or three lighter prunes after each bloom cycle.
Bougainvillea blooms on new growth. You want to prune and pinch yours to bring on the flowering. If you pinch the tender ends, which are about to bloom, the show of color will be denser and not all at the ends.
A word of warning: all bougainvilleas I’ve come across have sharp thorns, so use caution and wear gloves when pruning. If you’re not careful, you can come out from a round of pruning looking like you’ve been in the lion cage!
I’ve done five posts and videos on how to prune bougainvillea in this round-up: Bougainvillea Pruning Tips: What You Need to Know. A well-established bougainvillea grows in a tall urn planter at La Encantada in Tucson. You can see the trellis used for training attached to the pillar behind the plant.
I’ve written dedicated posts about planting bougainvillea in pots and bougainvillea care in pots which you’ll find below.
It does fine in containers, but I’d recommend using one of the lowing growing varieties of bougainvilleas for this.
Large bougainvilleas, like the one pictured above, need large containers. A taller one will need a large pot to accommodate the large root system.
Bougainvilleas need good drainage. A good organic potting soil mixed with a good dose of compost would make this plant happy. Make sure there are drainage holes on the bottom of the pot so the excess water can flow out, preventing root rot.
Are you interested in more info? Details here on Planting Bougainvillea In Pots. Do you need care tips? You can also read about How To Care For Bougainvillea In A Pot.
I don’t do much to bougainvillea in the winter months. Rather than further detail here, please refer to the article below.
I have written six posts plus answered FAQs on this subject in the following round-up: Bougainvillea Winter Care Tips. The bougainvillea flower is the small white center. The bracts (colored leaves) are what provide the abundance of color.
I’m saving the best for last! These flowering machines will bloom off and on year-round in warm climates. In a climate where the winters are cooler, they’ll bloom for 9-10 months.
The tiny white flowers in the center and the bracts (the colored leaves) give us those big shows of color. Bougainvilleas put out an explosion of color, drop their bracts, and then flower again.
You can find bougainvilleas in white, yellow, gold, orange, pink, magenta, red, reddish-purple, and purple. Some have 2-toned colors and variegated foliage too—something for all, except you lovers of blue.
The color of bougainvillea can change after you plant it. This has to do with breeding. My bougainvilleas, all well-established, will change color a bit as the season progress.
When the temps are cooler, the color is more intense. Here in Tucson, my bougainvilleas all have deeper colored flowers in early spring but will become less intense when it gets really hot. My “Rainbow Gold” has newer orange flowers that fade to pink.
If your bougainvillea is growing in part sun, the color could be a bit off. The bottom line: the warmer the spot is where your bougainvillea is growing, and the more sun it’s in, the more bloom and color you’ll get.
Do bougainvilleas bloom year-round? This is a question I’ve gotten over the years. The answer is yes and no. They go through bloom cycles that last anywhere from one to two months, and then the bracts fall.
In Santa Barbara and Tucson, bougainvilleas show color eight to ten months out of the year. My friend in Hawaii also says it’s cyclic there but blooms pretty much all year. The bottom line is that when an established plant is in bloom, you get a lot of color!